Greets!
I wouldn't, 13-1600 Hz is considered the 414's upper limit and these begin at 1800 Hz and 'want' much higher to use at 4 kHz-up.
Now got to find Bob's cab dims........
GM
I wouldn't, 13-1600 Hz is considered the 414's upper limit and these begin at 1800 Hz and 'want' much higher to use at 4 kHz-up.
Now got to find Bob's cab dims........
GM
OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
Greets!
I wouldn't, 13-1600 Hz is considered the 414's upper limit and these begin at 1800 Hz and 'want' much higher to use at 4 kHz-up.
Now got to find Bob's cab dims........
GM
Thanks GM...
Beyma TPL-150 ribbons could work, but considering their price, I think it's still best to stick with compression driver + horn up top. Thanks again!
OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:
H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot
Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.
All dims inside [i.d.].
Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].
Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.
GM
Hello GM.
Apologies for being offline for the past month and not able to thank you in a timely manner.
I do have a few questions:
This is a bass reflex, correct? Not a ML-TL?
(I believe you had recommended the ML-TL for the 406 driver.)
Also, is the speaker depth spec of 7.875" correct? Tall, wide and thin?
Thanks,
Bobo
Greets!
You're welcome! No biggie, life happens. 😱
With it's very high aspect ratio, definitely a MLTL.
Correct, a ~30" wide baffle usually negates the need for power robbing baffle step compensation [BSC].
GM
You're welcome! No biggie, life happens. 😱
With it's very high aspect ratio, definitely a MLTL.
Correct, a ~30" wide baffle usually negates the need for power robbing baffle step compensation [BSC].
GM
Last edited:
Hi, I know this thread is a bit old and I requested it to be reopened. I would like to repurpose the 406-8Y from my Bolero’s into bigger cabinets to get some more low end out of the as above in this thread. I’m new to MLTL cabinets and they are very intriguing!
GM, could you help me with a design that is roughly 38-40” high instead of the one you outlined above? I want t to plop my horn on top of it.
Your response is appreciated.
GM, could you help me with a design that is roughly 38-40” high instead of the one you outlined above? I want t to plop my horn on top of it.
Your response is appreciated.
Greets!
Hmm, OK is the horn CL at ~desired ear height or prefer the woofer at this point like me with horn angled as required?
Hmm, OK is the horn CL at ~desired ear height or prefer the woofer at this point like me with horn angled as required?
Just read through the posts above and I didn’t find anything about “centerlines” provided by the member who wanted the cabinets or anywhere else. I can go 26-30” wide and 38” tall. The horn listening height is 42” from the floor. Depth I’d like to keep the depth at 12” or so. If it can’t be designed based off this info I understand. Thank you reviewing my criteria!
Attachments
I want your desired centerlines, so I could figure out how they line up with your desired cab height's harmonic structure. 

Hmm, at this point me thinks I'm better off giving you some data to work with WRT pipe harmonics, so we need to work with i.d. specs and the various driver, vent offset combinations are:
Both the driver and vent should be at a vented pipe's odd harmonics. You can figure it out using Hornresp's 'path' slider in 'chamber' or just use these as proven audibly 'close enough':
Z = (L)x ~ 0 (top), 0.217, 0.349, 0.424, 0.561
Vent offset only, depending on box HxWxD ratio: Z = (L)x ~0.651, 0.714, 0.848, 0 (bottom)
Of course the first one doesn't apply to any ~zero area [CSA] terminated pipe/horns and if your desired ear seated/whatever driver height doesn't line up close enough to your design, suggest you change the alignment tuning [pipe's length] by adjusting Fs to get it to line up with one of these offsets.
Both the driver and vent should be at a vented pipe's odd harmonics. You can figure it out using Hornresp's 'path' slider in 'chamber' or just use these as proven audibly 'close enough':
Z = (L)x ~ 0 (top), 0.217, 0.349, 0.424, 0.561
Vent offset only, depending on box HxWxD ratio: Z = (L)x ~0.651, 0.714, 0.848, 0 (bottom)
Of course the first one doesn't apply to any ~zero area [CSA] terminated pipe/horns and if your desired ear seated/whatever driver height doesn't line up close enough to your design, suggest you change the alignment tuning [pipe's length] by adjusting Fs to get it to line up with one of these offsets.
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