I think Alpair 11MS have best microdetail. It is the fastes driver.Leif, what MA driver do you think has the best microdetail?
But they isnt matched. But they are close.
Scottmoose
Sorry oxididation. Alu and magnesium.
Solid and very good sound.
I have no problem with them.
So to summarize Leif, the 10 MOAP could use help with a supertweeter? Otherwise they are the best? How old are you Leif, I am not sure I would need a supertweeter with my old ears? lol.
I am over 60.So to summarize Leif, the 10 MOAP could use help with a supertweeter? Otherwise they are the best? How old are you Leif, I am not sure I would need a supertweeter with my old ears? lol.
I dont need supertweeter.. 😊
I have them in a miniOnken. 11-12 litre. BiB is a big box.Ah, good then. I think I'll like these MOAP drivers in a BiB. They'll go low, I bet.
I have seen them worked well in different konstruktion.
Tell us when you are ready, please.
Regards
Leif
their oxides (an aluminium / magnesium in this case) but the core is unchanged as the oxidation progressively tapers off with depth.
Essentially a ceramic. By the nature of the conversion the depth is only molecules thick and the boundary between it and teh unconverted metal will be chaotic at very small levels. Google says 0.0000286 m for a single layer.
dave
Thanks Dave!Essentially a ceramic. By the nature of the conversion the depth is only molecules thick and the boundary between it and teh unconverted metal will be chaotic at very small levels. Google says 0.0000286 m for a single layer.
dave
So, this is basically a metal driver then? Yet it has paper driver like sound? I usually am used to 'paper' drivers when it comes to FR Horn type speakers. Paper in quotes because there are a bunch of exotic 'papers' out there for speaker drivers.
I'd love to build these soon and provide pics but it will be a while. I really want to build these in Baltic Birch Ply, yet I think I will have to go another route. Anyone have some good ideas on alternative plys or woods I could build such big boxes from? 😎
I'd love to build these soon and provide pics but it will be a while. I really want to build these in Baltic Birch Ply, yet I think I will have to go another route. Anyone have some good ideas on alternative plys or woods I could build such big boxes from? 😎
As noted, it's a metal cone with the surfaces oxidised (converted to a ceramic, but it isn't a ceramic cone a la Accuton as it's only the surface of the substrate that is modified to a shallow depth). I don't really know what a 'paper driver like sound' is, since you can make most materials behave very differently depending on the cone geometry, thickness, additives etc., and how you then manipulate them with the suspension design & adhesives. It modifies behaviour relative to the non-oxidised versions however as the stiffness at the surfaces is slightly increased, but so is the damping of the transverse wave as it's no longer a (relatively) uniform structure throughout the cone structure.
So, this is basically a metal driver then? Yet it has paper driver like sound?ol:
MAOP is metal.
The A7.3 vrs A7p is a good example to void the classic generalizations that surround cone material, the etal cone sounding much like you would expect a paper cone to, and the paper cone like a metal cone is expected.
dave
Alpair 10Maop sounds very clean. Nothing that stands out. Controlled is well a word that comes up. Not much to distract. Very pleasant to listen to for hours. You can use tube amplifiers and KlassD. Work enough with which amplifier you want to use.So, this is basically a metal driver then? Yet it has paper driver like sound? I usually am used to 'paper' drivers when it comes to FR Horn type speakers. Paper in quotes because there are a bunch of exotic 'papers' out there for speaker drivers.
I'd love to build these soon and provide pics but it will be a while. I really want to build these in Baltic Birch Ply, yet I think I will have to go another route. Anyone have some good ideas on alternative plys or woods I could build such big boxes from? 😎
It sounds nothing metallic.
Completely liberated. Alpair 11MS has a slightly light tone in 8khz and up in frequency.
It can be dampened if you are in pain.
Tube amplifiers help to alleviate this a bit. Because this driver sounds a bit faster than Alpair 10Maop, the attacks become more pronounced.
Alpair 10Maop has a more accurate 3D and places voices in a more specific way. Millimeter precision. Because they are matched but my Alpair 11MS is not far behind. However, 10Maop is more comfortable to listen to.
I have a pair of Seas W18e001 in a miniOnken construction. Seas cone has been treated with a thin layer of magnesium.
Sounds almost like an Alpair 10Maop. Homogeneous and clean, but not as much micro details. However, you do not get tired of listening at all.
Sounds almost like an Alpair 10Maop. Homogeneous and clean, but not as much micro details. However, you do not get tired of listening at all.
Alpair 11MS has a slightly light tone in 8khz and up in frequency.
It can be dampened if you are in pain.
What enclosure are the 11MS in?
jeff
Alpair 11MS have Scottmoose enclosures.What enclosure are the 11MS in?
jeff
Nostromo largest.
16 litre. I think it is. Bass reflex tube backwards.
I like them a lot. Like the sound.
Attack and they disappear in the soundscape.
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Ok, so Baltic Birch is expensive and hard to get. I'll probably have to find some specialty lumber place and have them cut it into the pieces I can work with. The parts of the speaker that aren't visible I'll probably go with normal void free ply I can buy locally. Guess I better get my pair of 10 MOAPs ordered so I will eventually know their TS. Then I will know the final box dimensions.
So is anyone using tweeter with these for more treble? Or are they pretty good without?
So is anyone using tweeter with these for more treble? Or are they pretty good without?
Ok, så Baltic Birch är dyrt och svårt att få tag på. Jag måste nog hitta någon speciell timmerplats och låta dem skära den i bitar jag kan arbeta med. De delar av högtalaren som inte är synliga kommer jag antagligen att använda med vanligt fritt skikt som jag kan köpa lokalt. Jag antar att det är bättre att beställa mitt par 10 MOAPs så att jag så småningom kommer att känna till deras TS. Då kommer jag att veta de slutliga lådmåtten.
Så är det någon som använder diskant med dessa för mer diskant? Eller är de ganska bra utan?
I cant answer that question.Ok, so Baltic Birch is expensive and hard to get. I'll probably have to find some specialty lumber place and have them cut it into the pieces I can work with. The parts of the speaker that aren't visible I'll probably go with normal void free ply I can buy locally. Guess I better get my pair of 10 MOAPs ordered so I will eventually know their TS. Then I will know the final box dimensions.
So is anyone using tweeter with these for more treble? Or are they pretty good without?
You have to hear yourself.
I am satisfied without.
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