I spoke with my father-in-law about this at length. He’s a long retired electrical engineer who worked in audio. He’s calling it for a noisy transformer. He agrees with the test procedure I discussed with Pechelman, except he says I don’t need to connect the grounds. When I can get some baby-free time I’ll try it and report back. I’m not sure what Antek will do if it turns out to be noisy laminations. I’ll let you know. I’d buy Plitron instead, except they don’t sell to DIY any more. Maybe the store can order a batch of the most common Pass (and other) transformer values and sell to forum enthusiasts. That might work particularly if they pre-sell some like the kits. Thanks
Getting a audio grade potted and canned Toroidy would be cheaper, easier, and much better than a Plitron.
I 2nd 6L6s comments. I’ve used a Toroidy transformers in all of my builds and haven’t been disappointed. I buy two transformers at a time to maximize time and shipping
Shiny can:
TTSAS0300 - SUPREME AUDIO grade transformer TSAS300VA - voltage to 50V - Shop Toroidy.pl
Gotta like that.
Antek sent me a new transformer when I had a similar issue. Their service is excellent. That said, they’ll certainly suggest a few standard things it could be before agreeing to the return.
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I am going to order all the parts now in stock for the Aleph J finally. I have built the M2x and it is fantastic no complaints this is a curiosity build since there is so much talk about this amp. My question is the BOM that is posted in the store the one to follow or is there some updates to be aware of when I place order to get the remaining components from Mouser?Thanks
The BOM linked on the store page (Rev C):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...j-universal-mounting-spec-bom-aleph-j-ums.pdf
The BOM linked from page 1 of build guide (Rev D):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...j-universal-mounting-spec-bom-aleph-j-ums.pdf
As far as I can see the diff is around parts for setting the front end current source.
Personally I would use the simplified setup (without any pots there): R8=1K fixed,
R6=R30=jumper, as in the original schematics ( post #63 here: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/111197-aleph-schematic-7.html#post1343785)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...j-universal-mounting-spec-bom-aleph-j-ums.pdf
The BOM linked from page 1 of build guide (Rev D):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...j-universal-mounting-spec-bom-aleph-j-ums.pdf
As far as I can see the diff is around parts for setting the front end current source.
Personally I would use the simplified setup (without any pots there): R8=1K fixed,
R6=R30=jumper, as in the original schematics ( post #63 here: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/111197-aleph-schematic-7.html#post1343785)
Perhaps obvious, but note that the BOM does not include power supply parts.
Right, I merely meant that the power supply parts are not included in the BOM for the Aleph J boards.
I thought you intended to use everything in Diyaudio store.
If you had read a little bit more, you should have know UNIVERSAL POWER SUPPLY is good for every FW amp.
BOM is attached to the board.
If you had read a little bit more, you should have know UNIVERSAL POWER SUPPLY is good for every FW amp.
BOM is attached to the board.
I reached out to them during my build a few months back and they never replied. Instead I found one of these at my local hardware store.
Simpson A24 2" x 3-7/8" Angle - G90 Galvanized
Worked great after drilling a few holes. I even got lucky that its existing base lined up with holes in my baseplate.
Does anyone have interior photos of a completed Aleph J done in a 4U Deluxe, with the Universal PSU board, Antec transformer, and monolythic bridge rectifiers? Would be super-helpful to have a clear set of photos for where @alanhuth want to ultimately end up. Thanks! 🙂