OK thanks for that.
If I bolted the heatsinks onto heavy aluminium plates wouldn't that produce even distribution of heat?
Yes, that could work. Alternately, you could buy the pre-drilled UMS heatsinks directly from the DIYaudio store which would make life much easier. They are available separately.
That's annoying. They aren't listed anywhere I could find. I'll have to send a request about that. Along with a parts list. Or is there an easier way with that as well? Like just ask for the bits to make the Aleph J? Will they do that for me?
I was assuming I'd have to get some there, some at Mouser and some at Digikey. It's hard to find out about this stuff when you've just arrived.
I was assuming I'd have to get some there, some at Mouser and some at Digikey. It's hard to find out about this stuff when you've just arrived.
optimum cases for FW format amps are 4U/400 , when speaking of Modushop models
5U/400 being one for higher dissipation , and 5U/500 being Motherload of cases
300 deep, generally - I'm finding them just too tight
and - I'm always buying base plate , nice to have bottom plate as just cover , free of nuts and bolts
5U/400 being one for higher dissipation , and 5U/500 being Motherload of cases
300 deep, generally - I'm finding them just too tight
and - I'm always buying base plate , nice to have bottom plate as just cover , free of nuts and bolts
Thanks Dennis. It's just getting a bit expensive right now. You see by the time it gets shipped to Australia it's getting towards $300 just for the sinks or $500 for the case without shipping. If I get sinks locally for $100 I'll be happy to do my own tapping and will probably fabricate the rest for another $100.
That's more left in the bank for the bits I can't make. Aluminium is pretty easy to work with, I can even saw it on my bandsaw. I made some hefty cases for our two way radios in the fire brigade many years ago ,so they could rough it in the back of anyone's ute and likely survive. Worked well too.
And it's also more DIY .
That's more left in the bank for the bits I can't make. Aluminium is pretty easy to work with, I can even saw it on my bandsaw. I made some hefty cases for our two way radios in the fire brigade many years ago ,so they could rough it in the back of anyone's ute and likely survive. Worked well too.
And it's also more DIY .
of course
you have nice heatsink factory there
even if I can't remember right now how it's called
you have nice heatsink factory there
even if I can't remember right now how it's called
This comes as a surprise to me. I was going to order in the DIY Audio Store the 4U Deluxe Aluminum case, which is only available at 300mm deep with the pre-tapped UMS specification, and which is described as ideal for F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4, F-5, F-5 Turbo, F-6, Aleph J, etc.optimum cases for FW format amps are 4U/400...
300 deep, generally - I'm finding them just too tight...
As is, I don't know where in my apartment could I host such a monolithic block as the 4U x 300. If I need to go to 5U x 400, then I am probably not going to be able to put it anywhere. 🙁
edit: I am wondering why you cannot order the UMS tapped heatsinks in the DIY for 4U x 400?
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This comes as a surprise to me. I was going to order in the DIY Audio Store the 4U Deluxe Aluminum case, which is only available at 300mm deep with the pre-tapped UMS specification, and which is described as ideal for F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4, F-5, F-5 Turbo, F-6, Aleph J, etc.that said, can never have too much heatsink, and plenty of room is nice.
As is, I don't know where in my apartment could I host such a monolithic block as the 4U x 300. If I need to go to 5U x 400, then I am probably not going to be able to put it anywhere. 🙁
edit: I am wondering why you cannot order the UMS tapped heatsinks in the DIY for 4U x 400?
I have built F6, M2, Aleph J, in Deluxe 4 case. If you want dual mono things will get tight. I used Antek 500 va transformer in each of the mentioned cases with plenty of room.
Russellc
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The 5U 400 is ENORMOUS. But it has lots of room and heatsink, and some projects need that.
4U 300 is perfect for AJ, M2x, F4, BA-3...
4U 300 is perfect for AJ, M2x, F4, BA-3...
I have built F6, M2, Aleph J, in Deluxe 4 case...
Thanks, that is a relief! I could not have fitted the 5U anywhere!...4U 300 is perfect for AJ, M2x, F4, BA-3...
sorry boyz , I'm always thinking in dual mono , being double Gemini , blahblah
so be it - 300 deep is for Sissies
400 deep is for double Sissies

so be it - 300 deep is for Sissies
400 deep is for double Sissies

I will say if you're using a Toroidy 300va tranny in the 4U chassis, it will get very tight laying it horizontally.
Both the recommended Antek 300VA and 400VA toroids (AS-3218 and AS-4218) will fit vertically in the 4U case.
Will it fit vertically in 4U?
The Toroidy tranny, yes will fit vertically. I did in a M2 and Aleph J build. You can still do horizontally just you'll have to move stuff around a bit.
I have built my DIY case on a pair of 4U / 400 mm heatsinks (160 x 400 mm) that I had a machine shop cut for me from a bigger one that I got used.
With a well-ventilated baseplate and top plate, and set on somewhat taller feet (40 mm), this case is good for up to 100W per side.
With that, I can leave my hands on the sinks indefinitely (well, except for the hottest weeks of this summer 😛)
Best regards,
Claas
With a well-ventilated baseplate and top plate, and set on somewhat taller feet (40 mm), this case is good for up to 100W per side.
With that, I can leave my hands on the sinks indefinitely (well, except for the hottest weeks of this summer 😛)
Best regards,
Claas
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