Started working on the preamp built. A question regarding X121 connector, how are the connections made reading left to right regarding inputs and outputs.
Thanks
Thanks
Thank you X. Have been wiring the TH daughter boards, I am beginning to think I should have gone the SMD route, I believe it would have been easier!!
Hi X, just a heads up. I've noticed that most of the pictures you post are much too big for my screen, (although the resolution is set as high as it can go on my 23" monitor - 1680x1050).
Maybe you can reduce the size a bit before posting. I normally use the Resize tool in Paint on my Windows box to prepare pics for posting. On Linux and OS X you're on your own 😀 (just kidding). This list of free graphics apps should bail you out.
Maybe you can reduce the size a bit before posting. I normally use the Resize tool in Paint on my Windows box to prepare pics for posting. On Linux and OS X you're on your own 😀 (just kidding). This list of free graphics apps should bail you out.
Just cased it up now I can take it with me to work 🙂
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What size case is that? It seems just the right size.
Hi Skylar,
It ain’t the prettiest case by far, but very practical and drills and “cuts like buttah”. 🙂
BUD Industries CU-3008-A Aluminum Electronics Minibox, 7" Length x 5" Width x 3" Height, Natural Finish.
It ain’t the prettiest case by far, but very practical and drills and “cuts like buttah”. 🙂
BUD Industries CU-3008-A Aluminum Electronics Minibox, 7" Length x 5" Width x 3" Height, Natural Finish.
Hi X, just a heads up. I've noticed that most of the pictures you post are much too big for my screen, (although the resolution is set as high as it can go on my 23" monitor - 1680x1050).
Maybe you can reduce the size a bit before posting. I normally use the Resize tool in Paint on my Windows box to prepare pics for posting. On Linux and OS X you're on your own 😀 (just kidding). This list of free graphics apps should bail you out.
I normally resize to 1200pix wide - must have been an errant photo that I posted raw. Sorry about that. It’s annoying, I know.
I normally resize to 1200pix wide - must have been an errant photo that I posted raw. Sorry about that. It’s annoying, I know.
Hi X, it could be my browser or graphics card, because now most of your pics look fine (like the one of the case above). I'm now sorry that I brought it up. 😱
Any update about GB of melf resistors?
Just send JPS64 a PM and he will provide you the set for $5 or some nominal cost. Check with JP.
Just send JPS64 a PM and he will provide you the set for $5 or some nominal cost. Check with JP.
Awesome, I need to order some as well.
Thanks X!
Schematics
Can someone point me to the latest schematics and BOM, please?
It would be useful if it could be added to the first post, but perhaps diyAudio doesn't allow editing of posts (after the initial timeout).
Can someone point me to the latest schematics and BOM, please?
It would be useful if it could be added to the first post, but perhaps diyAudio doesn't allow editing of posts (after the initial timeout).
Hi Skylar,
It’s in the GB thread post 1 if you want to get building.
AKSA's Lender Preamp with 40Vpp Ouput GB
Depending on which daughterboard you are making, the schematic and BOM is different. I think you are doing through hole so look for that.
Schematic for TH DB:
Schematic for MB:
Revised BOM for MB:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...vpp-ouput-gb-aksa-lender-mb_pl_04_01_2018-zip
BOM for TH DB:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...eamp-40vpp-output-diy-aksa-lender-pre-tht-zip
Stuffing guide:
It’s in the GB thread post 1 if you want to get building.
AKSA's Lender Preamp with 40Vpp Ouput GB
Depending on which daughterboard you are making, the schematic and BOM is different. I think you are doing through hole so look for that.
Schematic for TH DB:
Schematic for MB:
Revised BOM for MB:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...vpp-ouput-gb-aksa-lender-mb_pl_04_01_2018-zip
BOM for TH DB:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...eamp-40vpp-output-diy-aksa-lender-pre-tht-zip
Stuffing guide:
Last edited:
I´ve to clarify one point and I´ve to say that I´ve never started Melf/Minimelf GB then nobody interested.
I´ve sending and going to send a few sets from my private stock that´s all.
Is there a demand for Melf/Minimelf sets? I would start a GB if more then 20 participants.
JP
I´ve sending and going to send a few sets from my private stock that´s all.
Is there a demand for Melf/Minimelf sets? I would start a GB if more then 20 participants.
JP
I´ve to clarify one point and I´ve to say that I´ve never started Melf/Minimelf GB then nobody interested.
I´ve sending and going to send a few sets from my private stock that´s all.
Is there a demand for Melf/Minimelf sets? I would start a GB if more then 20 participants.
JP
I would be interested in a few sets if you do start a gb. No worries if you don't have enough interest.
The new ALPHA amp thread is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...hybrid-aleph-alpha-amplifier.html#post5323512
Hey X,
What input caps did you settle on for your AKSA Lender Pre that you're using to drive your ALPHA 20W?
Hey X,
What input caps did you settle on for your AKSA Lender Pre that you're using to drive your ALPHA 20W?
I was using CBB 3.3uF 250v MKT (cheap no name) and quite happy with it. I tried switching to Dayton 10uF PMPC-10 1% 250V caps I had lying around from a crossover project and really could not tell a difference. I may try a 4.7uF 60V Wima MKP next. So not settled really, but then, not unhappy either. I do know that a 10uF 35v Elna Silmic II has always been a good standby, you really can't go wrong with it, other than if you are an elco cap hater, it works fine too.
Thanks X. I was curious to see where you ended up on the uF value as well as what those caps were that you used in your first build. I'm planning on starting with the Elnas and going from there. I might bypass with various films to see if there's a difference there. I also have some 4.7uF Mundorf Evo Oils on the way from partsconnexion. Curious to try some cap rolling and see if I hear any differences. I've been itching to populate boards. We just had our 2nd kid so sneaking out to the garage hasn't been an option lately.
Congrats on the second kid. If you leave the PCB and all parts (assuming non SMT) in a ziplock along with pair of pliers and schematic. You can do it anywhere by squeezing in 20 min here and there. 🙂 solder later.
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