Most modern digital meters should be ok.....older analog meters are definitely suspect.
Put 100k ohms in series to be perfectly be safe, necessary for MC carts I heard.
Dan.
Put 100k ohms in series to be perfectly be safe, necessary for MC carts I heard.
Dan.
OK, This puppy is ready to ship!!! Or at least, order a stylus for! Disconnected and removed a couple pivots, and cleaned em with lacquer thinner...
Just a point to pass on, for anyone doing this job for the 1st time,,, all of these pivot points have a pretty sloppy fit,,, not the typical fit of a bushing, so anything that doesn't move under its own weight, is dirty... I used brake cleaner. penetrating oil, and lacquer thinner, in stages to get some of teh pivots apart... the intentional "sloppy" fit of teh design seemed to let a lot of teh original lube build up, and glued the parts together...some of it came out black, when it was finally dissolved...
Heat helps also... but care must be used around the chemicals....specially lacquer thinner... Also, I had to make a rod support, that broke while trying to run the mechanism, with stuck parts...Its easier to see whats happening, by turning the main cam by hand, and watching for any stress...
Thanks to Dan, and others who helped along teh way... The next TT will certainly be easier!!! Maybe the Collaro in the Maggy cabinet??
Then we build a pre amp,, any recommended plans?
Regards,
John
Here are two good starting points with background info..
http://www.analog.com/library/analogdialogue/archives/39-05/web_ch6_final_i.pdf
High End Phono Preamplifier
There is tons of further phono pre stuff on this forum also.
Dan.
You sure did!!
Problem was it was moving easily, I thought,, but, EVERY pivot, that isn't controlled by a spring, has to move under its own weight,, much sloppier fit than I suspected ... Now I know!!! Nothing like experience,,, can't get from a book!!!!
I did use Dextron to lube all parts,,, no grease...
Regards,
John
Thanks for the links, they are SS,,, Most of the pre amps I've looked at are tube, with SS PS,,, I have a bunch of 6SN7's, was think of using them, but, I can study some SS designs,,, Need to use a glossary to understand all the components, tho!!!
I have one WA-P2 preamp, I built a PS for it, with the power to run 2 of them, was considering to use them,,, but, you gave me something else to consider...
Regards,
John
Grasshopper, it's been fun....especially my last wise crack, lol.....well worth all my typing, but funniest is that I said all in the first case !.
Dexron is also ace in motor bearings...wicks into sintered bearing shells, never dries or clogs, and does not dissolve bronze.
Good for hinges, locks, gates...1001 uses.
I should market it in an aerosol can 😎.
Next is the CD player...
Dan.
Dexron is also ace in motor bearings...wicks into sintered bearing shells, never dries or clogs, and does not dissolve bronze.
Good for hinges, locks, gates...1001 uses.
I should market it in an aerosol can 😎.
Next is the CD player...
Dan.
Trans fluid and acetone mixed 1/2 and 1/2 make a great penetrating oil...I still have a gallon of Marvel mystery penetrating oil, and rust cutter, left over for teh 70's... great stuff, probably outlawed now!!!
I do use trans fluid for light oil in lots of stuff...
You did tell me to clean the pivots,,, I didn't realize this one would be as sloppy as it was, after I took it apart... I thought it was moving pretty good, thru the whole range,,, but hey, I asked to learn!!!!! Now, I can help you teach !
That CDP is a POS I got last year, just to use in the shop as an "input",, never figured it would work at all, but its worth teh learning experience, to try and sort it out...I'll get into it soon...
Can't thank you enough for the help, and time you spent!!
Regards,
John
Damn, somebody beat me to the oil idea.
You are a good student, makes it a pleasure to help.
When you are ready, we can sort the CDP.
Do you have a scope ?.
Dan.
You are a good student, makes it a pleasure to help.
When you are ready, we can sort the CDP.
Do you have a scope ?.
Dan.
No scope as of today, however, ask me tomorrow,,, But, I'll have to learn how to use one!!!
I have a couple more issues/questions about the TT, 1st, I know you recommended not using grease, however, the metal pawl/lever on top of teh drive cam makes noise as teh cam spins, I figure they greased it originally, and it would let it move with out flopping around... Any thoughts on some white lithium grease on it?
2nd.. I have all the pivots cleaned and lubed, they move easily... I noticed, if teh TT is started in auto mode, after it cycles, and stops,,,, teh manual start switch won't lock in "start" mode... In other words, if teh stop lever (76), is in teh auto stop position, the manual start switch won't lock...
I realize its hard to visualize without the TT in front of you, but, I think it should work either way, regardless of the last cycle it went thru,,,
Other other than that, it seems fine...
Regards,
John
I have a couple more issues/questions about the TT, 1st, I know you recommended not using grease, however, the metal pawl/lever on top of teh drive cam makes noise as teh cam spins, I figure they greased it originally, and it would let it move with out flopping around... Any thoughts on some white lithium grease on it?
2nd.. I have all the pivots cleaned and lubed, they move easily... I noticed, if teh TT is started in auto mode, after it cycles, and stops,,,, teh manual start switch won't lock in "start" mode... In other words, if teh stop lever (76), is in teh auto stop position, the manual start switch won't lock...
I realize its hard to visualize without the TT in front of you, but, I think it should work either way, regardless of the last cycle it went thru,,,
Other other than that, it seems fine...
Regards,
John
Once you have a scope, you will soon learn how to use it.....what are you planning on getting ?.
Yeah, that pawl/lever should ideally have a bit of grease to damp movements...white grease should be fine.
I'm not sure about the manual start switch issue..perhaps the spring you made is not actually required.
Rotate the platter by hand and take a close look at what goes on....I am running from 10 years+ memory when we are getting down to this level of detail.
In my experience with these Garrard, BSR and Dual auto start/auto return mechanisms, all faults were due to dried lubricant issues, and speed issues caused by slipping idler wheel due to glazed rubber.
Use a cotton bud and Brasso to polish the motor drive mandrel, Dexron II in the motor bearings.
Dan.
Yeah, that pawl/lever should ideally have a bit of grease to damp movements...white grease should be fine.
I'm not sure about the manual start switch issue..perhaps the spring you made is not actually required.
Rotate the platter by hand and take a close look at what goes on....I am running from 10 years+ memory when we are getting down to this level of detail.
In my experience with these Garrard, BSR and Dual auto start/auto return mechanisms, all faults were due to dried lubricant issues, and speed issues caused by slipping idler wheel due to glazed rubber.
Use a cotton bud and Brasso to polish the motor drive mandrel, Dexron II in the motor bearings.
Dan.
Don't know about teh scope yet,,, my Buddy has one, he said I can borrow....
I'll keep at it, there has to be a reason the manual won't move that switch, nobody worked on it but me, so, I'll retrace any changes I may have made... Thinking a spring or two may be weak from trying to run it with stiff grease holding it back,,, the pivots/levers are very loose... I'll get it...
I thought white grease would be good on those pawls, maybe a little on teh main gear also...
Thanks for replying. I'll give it a sot, and post results...
Regards,
John
I'll keep at it, there has to be a reason the manual won't move that switch, nobody worked on it but me, so, I'll retrace any changes I may have made... Thinking a spring or two may be weak from trying to run it with stiff grease holding it back,,, the pivots/levers are very loose... I'll get it...
I thought white grease would be good on those pawls, maybe a little on teh main gear also...
Thanks for replying. I'll give it a sot, and post results...
Regards,
John
You may have to cue the arm across and above the record before operating the manual select lever.
When in manual mode, returning the arm to the rest will cause the manual lever (and motor switch contacts) to drop out iirc.
When you have the CRO, I will talk you through using it, and what to measure/tweak in the CDP.
Dan.
When in manual mode, returning the arm to the rest will cause the manual lever (and motor switch contacts) to drop out iirc.
When you have the CRO, I will talk you through using it, and what to measure/tweak in the CDP.
Dan.
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Yep...cue teh arm across teh platter, to end of record location, and let it return automatically, shuts off teh switch after the arm parks,,, Then in operating teh manual lever, the linkage won't lock switch on, as the switch lever, needs to move to teh left...Tweezers point to switch lever...
Pic 1 shows switch lever to Left
Pic 2 shows switch to right, as after auto mode stop... teh vertical lever touching it, doesn't seem to have enough travel to push it Left, so over center spring on switch lever can snap it to Left...
Clear as mud, I imagine!!!
All the involved linkage has been removed and polished...
I'll search for a thread of this TT, being run ... maybe I can see what it supposed to do,, The spring I replaced, will not let teh auto mode engage, when removed,,, I have yet to experiment with tensions...
And some folks play Luminosity, to stay sharp!!!
Regards,
John
Pic 1 shows switch lever to Left
Pic 2 shows switch to right, as after auto mode stop... teh vertical lever touching it, doesn't seem to have enough travel to push it Left, so over center spring on switch lever can snap it to Left...
Clear as mud, I imagine!!!
All the involved linkage has been removed and polished...
I'll search for a thread of this TT, being run ... maybe I can see what it supposed to do,, The spring I replaced, will not let teh auto mode engage, when removed,,, I have yet to experiment with tensions...
And some folks play Luminosity, to stay sharp!!!
Regards,
John
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Got a few more CDP's and a cassette deck to "learn on" at an auction yesterday...HK HD100, Sony CDP C335, Technics RS TR333 deck,,, Also, lined up a scope, didn't pick it up yet tho...
Very addictive hobby!!!
Regards,
John
Very addictive hobby!!!
Regards,
John
Hi John, you have the whole range of gear to play with now 😎 ....a few more lessons and you will be expert 😉.
I'm glad to help you learn this stuff, you choose the next project (after you have mastered the TT).
On the subject of the TT, the center spindles have differing ends, according to tall multi-play spindle, or the short single play spindle....IIRC, this influences the auto/manual mode operation...moves a mode select lever under the center of the mech IIRC.
Also, mis-operation occurs if the TT is not dead flat whilst manually spinning the platter.
Keep at it, you'll work it out.
Dan.
I'm glad to help you learn this stuff, you choose the next project (after you have mastered the TT).
On the subject of the TT, the center spindles have differing ends, according to tall multi-play spindle, or the short single play spindle....IIRC, this influences the auto/manual mode operation...moves a mode select lever under the center of the mech IIRC.
Also, mis-operation occurs if the TT is not dead flat whilst manually spinning the platter.
Keep at it, you'll work it out.
Dan.
Hi Dan,
I put teh TT on teh back burner, for now,, need to get a stylus to try it... I wedged teh auto play lever on. and let it cycle in teh 45 mode for at least an hour, to spread teh lube, and shake out the bugs,,, never missed a beat,,, so, it does work, little shaky on teh "manual after auto mode" , but, it may not be a problem, just "operator error"... Thinking realistically, I only use one record at a time, never liked stacking albums, and starting it automatically, would be more precise, than trying to see the edge of the record, with these old eyes!!!
Along with teh CDP's/tape deck, I also picked up some tube chassis', an EICO tuner,, and a really nice Triplett VTVM, reads RMS ...
Trouble is the new CDP's work fine, I just cleaned the lens, and cleaned and replaced the lube !!!! So, I'll have to use the original one for "practice"!!!
Thanks for all the previous help, and offers,,, Maybe we should get the mods to rename this thread "AudioRepair 101"... I'm glad to see it helped others, also...
May pick up the scope this week end, if my buddy isn't working...
Regards,
John
I put teh TT on teh back burner, for now,, need to get a stylus to try it... I wedged teh auto play lever on. and let it cycle in teh 45 mode for at least an hour, to spread teh lube, and shake out the bugs,,, never missed a beat,,, so, it does work, little shaky on teh "manual after auto mode" , but, it may not be a problem, just "operator error"... Thinking realistically, I only use one record at a time, never liked stacking albums, and starting it automatically, would be more precise, than trying to see the edge of the record, with these old eyes!!!
Along with teh CDP's/tape deck, I also picked up some tube chassis', an EICO tuner,, and a really nice Triplett VTVM, reads RMS ...
Trouble is the new CDP's work fine, I just cleaned the lens, and cleaned and replaced the lube !!!! So, I'll have to use the original one for "practice"!!!
Thanks for all the previous help, and offers,,, Maybe we should get the mods to rename this thread "AudioRepair 101"... I'm glad to see it helped others, also...
May pick up the scope this week end, if my buddy isn't working...
Regards,
John
Any questions...just ask.
Before tackling amplifiers, a few tips are needed....when you're ready.
What model is the Triplett VTVM....and the Eico tuner.
Dan.
Before tackling amplifiers, a few tips are needed....when you're ready.
What model is the Triplett VTVM....and the Eico tuner.
Dan.
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