OK Back to where I left off...
1st Pic.... This plastic lever (164) seems to be too tight on teh rivet,, seems it should move more freely, so when auto lever is pulled, trip rod (143) can move it out of teh slot in nteh cam, and start the cycle... I can do it by hand, but the rod can't move it from teh auto play lever.... 143, can't seem to release 164, after the lst cycle...
2nd Pic.... Spring (120) was missing, so I found/made a similar(??) spring and installed it in trip lever (118), and hooked teh other end i the wrong spot,, I now see, it should be on friction lever (133)...
It still doesn't work from teh auto lever, as 164, seems to be tight on the rivet, as I noted above...Not sure how loose it should be, or how to loosen it slightly without breaking it,,,
Thats the challange, in a nutshell,,, maybe the "new spring" isn't heavy enough, but it really seems like 164 is the main problem...
Clear as mud!!!!!!!!!
Regards,
John
1st Pic.... This plastic lever (164) seems to be too tight on teh rivet,, seems it should move more freely, so when auto lever is pulled, trip rod (143) can move it out of teh slot in nteh cam, and start the cycle... I can do it by hand, but the rod can't move it from teh auto play lever.... 143, can't seem to release 164, after the lst cycle...
2nd Pic.... Spring (120) was missing, so I found/made a similar(??) spring and installed it in trip lever (118), and hooked teh other end i the wrong spot,, I now see, it should be on friction lever (133)...
It still doesn't work from teh auto lever, as 164, seems to be tight on the rivet, as I noted above...Not sure how loose it should be, or how to loosen it slightly without breaking it,,,
Thats the challange, in a nutshell,,, maybe the "new spring" isn't heavy enough, but it really seems like 164 is the main problem...
Clear as mud!!!!!!!!!
Regards,
John
Attachments
The levers on the diecast wheel should rotate perfectly freely.
Diecast (shite metal) has the nasty property of sucking the volatiles out of lubricants, and turning lubricants into stiff/sticky gum.
My method is to warm (not cook/melt) with a hair dryer and whilst applying solvent (isopropyl, metho, shellite etc) work the item a million or so times until the gummed up lubricant washes out.
Applying Dexron II and then solvent in cycles helps also.
Once this lever is running perfectly freely you ought to be good to go.
The spring you have fitted looks good...the original was pretty light weight (that's if it was actually missing ?)
The lever connected to your spring in the second pic needs to rotate perfectly freely also....all slides and pivots need to run perfectly freely.
You are nearly there 🙂.
Dan.
Diecast (shite metal) has the nasty property of sucking the volatiles out of lubricants, and turning lubricants into stiff/sticky gum.
My method is to warm (not cook/melt) with a hair dryer and whilst applying solvent (isopropyl, metho, shellite etc) work the item a million or so times until the gummed up lubricant washes out.
Applying Dexron II and then solvent in cycles helps also.
Once this lever is running perfectly freely you ought to be good to go.
The spring you have fitted looks good...the original was pretty light weight (that's if it was actually missing ?)
The lever connected to your spring in the second pic needs to rotate perfectly freely also....all slides and pivots need to run perfectly freely.
You are nearly there 🙂.
Dan.
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164 is called "friction lever" on the parts list, and is riveted to the wheel, it does move, with a little pressure,,, The other lever on teh wheel, 163, is fastened with an E clip, and is spring loaded, it moves easily... I don't think either of those levers are the problem, because, when teh rod is pushed manually, it goes thru a complete cycle, and returns, ready for teh next start....
Problem I see is this,,,The auto start lever on top of the TT, only releases trip lever (118).... The only mechanical connection to push trip rod (143), is teh spring that was missing (121), I tried a few different springs, but none seem strong enough to push the rod to start the cycle ..... I'll try the heating/lubing fix, and try to loosen the riveted lever,,,and report back..
Thanks for the advice,,, we'll see what happens...
PS: Yes, the spring was missing,,, I fitted one last time I worked on it, but didn't think it was heavy enough...
Regards,
John
Problem I see is this,,,The auto start lever on top of the TT, only releases trip lever (118).... The only mechanical connection to push trip rod (143), is teh spring that was missing (121), I tried a few different springs, but none seem strong enough to push the rod to start the cycle ..... I'll try the heating/lubing fix, and try to loosen the riveted lever,,,and report back..
Thanks for the advice,,, we'll see what happens...
PS: Yes, the spring was missing,,, I fitted one last time I worked on it, but didn't think it was heavy enough...
Regards,
John
Freed up the lever with a little heat,, works a little better, intermittently,,still need to sort out the spring tension for the one I fitted, I think... we're getting there...
I'll fit a cartridge and see about dialing bit in a little closer,,,
May work yet!!!
Thanks again,
Regards,
John
I'll fit a cartridge and see about dialing bit in a little closer,,,
May work yet!!!
Thanks again,
Regards,
John
From memory I think the riveted lever should be perfectly free, but damped with a little grease.
Diecast metal can also change dimension slightly (swell) in addition to causing grease to turn to stiff, dry wax.
This job's nearly done, what's next lol.
Dan.
Diecast metal can also change dimension slightly (swell) in addition to causing grease to turn to stiff, dry wax.
This job's nearly done, what's next lol.
Dan.
Still at it,,, broke a plastic clip that holds the trip rod, made a new one out of sheet metal,,, works good....
Also got the auto mode to work, however, the tone arm always sets at the 7" record point,,, when it goes to the center (end of record), it returns and shuts off OK...
Regards,
John
Also got the auto mode to work, however, the tone arm always sets at the 7" record point,,, when it goes to the center (end of record), it returns and shuts off OK...
Regards,
John
Max, not meaning to be thread-jacking here but I will be inheriting a mid-sixties Sony TC-200 RTR "Tapecorder" (Tube hybrid design).........around 1985 I fired it up & heard the typical dried-out Mains caps buzzing. I hadn't fired it up since. Any advice right off the top of your head what to attack first?
BTW, nice specific advice for Johns old Akai.........memory serves us good huh?
__________________________________________________Rick...........
BTW, nice specific advice for Johns old Akai.........memory serves us good huh?
__________________________________________________Rick...........
HA,,, Well, I have a CDP, that skips when it gets towards the end on some CD's!!!!(got it at teh same auction!)
And, I still need an OPT, (Motorola 3rd bass channel),, to finish the Maggy 175 amp I built on a 3channel Moto chassis, w/6SL7 drivers/PI's!!!!! This amp really sounds good!
Your choice!!!!!
Too bad we're on opposite sides of the globe, really could tear some stuff up!!!
You got any projects going now?
Thanks for helping...
Regards,
John
I always recap the PS, 1st on any tube amp I plan on keeping... plug it in to a dim bulb tester, to protect from shorts, til you see how it works...
I'm sure Dan can give lots more advice...
Regards,
John
The speed selector also controls the record size selection....from hazy memory a slide sets a limit on how far the arm rotates during loading sequence...sticking grease again ?.
Also these TT had capability of playing a stack of records...the tall or short centre spindle needs to be installed correctly or there is a misoperation.
Junk on the disc tt can cause (disc wobble) and mistracking/skipping especially toward the end of disc where spin speed is highest.
Other causes...
Dirt/dust/film on laser lens...clean with dry cotton bud, going across the lens, not around the lens.
Sticky/dry lube on sled rails, sticky lube on sled drive gears.
Servos needing tweaking.
Faulty laser pickup.
What make and model is the CDP ?.
Cant help with the output transformer, sorry about that !.
I do have an interesting project going on...precise measurement/catergorising of an interesting filter block that clips around cables and alters sound of any system.
Initial measurements have shown reduction in system overall THD, with reduction/shifting of 5th and higher harmonics down to lower harmonics.
Result is cleaner sound all the way up to clip, and no ear bleeding.
If you lived around the corner, I could show you some interesting stuff.
Dan.
Hi Rick.
First advice, always run up old gear using a AC mains supply series bulb.
If nothing else it will allow reforming of old electros without blowing them up.
From there it's...
Cleaning old grease and relubing.
Resurfacing rubber drive wheels and rollers.
Belts can be cut and shortened and then rejoined using superglue until suitable replacements are sourced.
Cleaning/spraying switches and pots.
That's generally all RR need.
If you strike troubles, let me know.
Dan.
Thanks a lot Dan, I see where you're going at with the re-surfacing of that rubber roller....as I'm guessing it is spring loaded to apply the correct "pinch"........truth be told I still remember how the capstan motor sounds (1973?) , very unique sound, something the likes could be used as Sci-Fi sound FX.
___________________________________Regards, Rick...........
___________________________________Regards, Rick...........
CDP is Onkyo DX2500...
Cleaned and re-lubed sled rails, and repaired teh sled belt, it was slipping... Never worked on a CDP before this one,,, will I mess up alignment, or anything else, by disassembling to get to laser?
Sounds like your doing some serious experimenting there...good luck with it! Sorry to bore you with mundane repairs!!!!!!!
I'll bet you have some interesting stuff going on,,, I actually do also, however, this audio kick is relatively new,,,, I figured I'd try to learn something I was always interested in, but never had the "schoolin" for... The math and physics for tube design is killing me, but, the bench work seems to come easy!!!
Thanks for continued help, and conversation! I'll sort these guys out...
Regards,
John
Swabbing it out again... Getting closer each time... spun the rubber drive wheel on a little lathe, to take off teh glaze...
Regards,
John
Yeah, you need to remove the hardened/glazed surface to return to 'new' rubber...the result needs to be dead flat and square.
Crook motor power supply can give that ''Dalek'' sound EFX.
Dan.
Update,,,
I got it running pretty smooth, now,,, just need to figure out why it doesn't start on the 12" edge, wants to go to 7"... There's gotta be a pivot that didn't get cleaned well enough...
I'll find it!!
I have a couple of Empire cartridges and a Pickering, all need stylus', 80EE, 888E,,, and P/AC-1... I checked them with an ohmeter, all read pretty evenly side to side, but don't have stylus' for any of them... Is there a sure way I can make sure they work, before ordering one?
Regards,
John
I got it running pretty smooth, now,,, just need to figure out why it doesn't start on the 12" edge, wants to go to 7"... There's gotta be a pivot that didn't get cleaned well enough...
I'll find it!!
I have a couple of Empire cartridges and a Pickering, all need stylus', 80EE, 888E,,, and P/AC-1... I checked them with an ohmeter, all read pretty evenly side to side, but don't have stylus' for any of them... Is there a sure way I can make sure they work, before ordering one?
Regards,
John
Glad to hear the TT is nearly there....keep looking and cleaning/relubing and you'll sort it I am sure.
The cartridges should be perfectly fine if the windings measure appropriately, and equal channel to channel.
Short of having been dunked in beer, I am yet to find a cartridge body that is crook.
Take care with the ohm meter you use...too much current could fuse the windings which are thinner than hair !.
There are some good phono preamp designs here on the forum if you get the urge to roll your own...some older integrated amplifiers were not noted for stellar phono preamp stages....RIAA equalisation by modifying feedback is not nearly as good as preamp stages driving passive shunt/series networks.
Dan.
The cartridges should be perfectly fine if the windings measure appropriately, and equal channel to channel.
Short of having been dunked in beer, I am yet to find a cartridge body that is crook.
Take care with the ohm meter you use...too much current could fuse the windings which are thinner than hair !.
There are some good phono preamp designs here on the forum if you get the urge to roll your own...some older integrated amplifiers were not noted for stellar phono preamp stages....RIAA equalisation by modifying feedback is not nearly as good as preamp stages driving passive shunt/series networks.
Dan.
I'm thinking I may have a problem with teh spring I replaced, as I don't know how much tension it should have,,, I found a link to the same problem, but with a Zero 100 TT,,, always starting at 7", I'll study that and see if I can apply it to mine,,, There is obviously something I'm missing, as all teh rods and levers seem very free...
Yes, building a preamp is on teh todo list, finding the best schematic is the trick, tho....
The ohmeter has a 9V battery, teh current draw is dependent on teh cartridge, isn't it? Hope I didn't damage them!!!
Regards,
John
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