Thanks again dirkwright, great detailed advice. I think I will enjoy this process and learn a lot.
The 3.6mm plywood has a hardwood ply and a plywood layer with a soft pine sandwich in the middle. Not sure what the actual plywood layer is, same as this link but 3.6mm not 9mm. Choose a sheet with a nice red tinge to it.
http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber...-Plywood-1220x606x9mm-13368700?skuId=13839407
Especially looking forward to buffing and waxing the finish 😀 I will upload pics soon as I can.
The 3.6mm plywood has a hardwood ply and a plywood layer with a soft pine sandwich in the middle. Not sure what the actual plywood layer is, same as this link but 3.6mm not 9mm. Choose a sheet with a nice red tinge to it.
http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber...-Plywood-1220x606x9mm-13368700?skuId=13839407
Especially looking forward to buffing and waxing the finish 😀 I will upload pics soon as I can.
One last word of advice; Do a test finish on some scrap wood first. I recently had to strip some walnut burl veneer off the front of 2 cabinets because the finish made the wood way too dark.
Also, for new water based finishes, follow the instructions exactly. Do not put water based polyurathane over shellac or lacquer sealers. The top coat will not stick to the sealer and peel off.
Also, for new water based finishes, follow the instructions exactly. Do not put water based polyurathane over shellac or lacquer sealers. The top coat will not stick to the sealer and peel off.
Oh no.... Can you stick your thumbnail into the wood and leave a dent? Is it relatively light weight? It looks like the stuff they call here "sandply". It's from Latin America somewhere. I'm sorry to say that if it is "sandply" then it's not very good stuff. I hope I'm wrong though.
It's normal here in America that the plywood core sheets are a different kind of wood, like poplar.
Your best bet is to find baltic birch ply where you live.
Thanks EdKennedy, I will do a test piece on scrap wood first, what a nightmare you must of had stripping the veneer off your baffles. Thanks for sharing your advice.
dirkwright, I can't literally stick my thumbnail into the wood and dent the plywood layer is actually very tough had to dig very hard with the claw end of a hammer to get a dint in it to try some filler I had. I wanted to use something thin enough not to make my baffle too large but thought this stuff will give better strength to the cabs, am not a big fan of veneer or exposed MDF painted or whatever. I do have some high quality birch ply 18mm (13 layers with small amount of voids) I will use for my subwoofer. Thanks for recommending birch ply, I agree its far better than MDF if its quality made and will use this in all projects in future.
I also think this 3.6mm plywood isn't the greatest but think its better than the sandeply from what I've seen online from home depot. The hardwood layer on the thin plywood tightens up with titebond 2 glue and seems to stiffen the cabs well, knuckle rap test is much better, if thats anything to go by, sound test soon.
dirkwright, I can't literally stick my thumbnail into the wood and dent the plywood layer is actually very tough had to dig very hard with the claw end of a hammer to get a dint in it to try some filler I had. I wanted to use something thin enough not to make my baffle too large but thought this stuff will give better strength to the cabs, am not a big fan of veneer or exposed MDF painted or whatever. I do have some high quality birch ply 18mm (13 layers with small amount of voids) I will use for my subwoofer. Thanks for recommending birch ply, I agree its far better than MDF if its quality made and will use this in all projects in future.
I also think this 3.6mm plywood isn't the greatest but think its better than the sandeply from what I've seen online from home depot. The hardwood layer on the thin plywood tightens up with titebond 2 glue and seems to stiffen the cabs well, knuckle rap test is much better, if thats anything to go by, sound test soon.
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#2. Many woods do not stain well...they get all blotchy. Try your stain on a scrap or the inside of a panel. Sand evenly. You may find an oil based stain easier to work with then water based.
If you do stain the cabinet and the color is uneven you can add a small bit of stain to your finish to tone the finish and somewhat even out the color underneath.
#5. Steel wool every few coats to help the finish build evenly. Two or three times in the course of building up the finish. After the last coat rub with 0000 steel wool using some wax to lubricate the wool. You will get a shine that you can cut back with dry steel wool.
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Thanks evanc great advice and pics, looks like you can get a superb finish too. I'll use a oil based stain rather than water based. Is the stain really needed though? I've seen different colours of shellac flakes and believe the more layers of shellac thats applied the darker it goes.
Would buying coloured shellac be a better option that oil based stain?
I ideally want a finish similar to pic2 from evanc but a little darker.
Sorry for no pics yet its not as easy for yous to give advise sometimes, and appreciate all this advise.
My design goal is similar to the Seas Idunn, same woofers and size cab volume only smaller height more depth, different tweeter.
Seas Idunn:
Idunn
Tweeter:
H1212-06 27TBFC/G
Different bass reflex exit a vent not a port similar to these:
Acoustic Energy Award-Winning British Hi-Fi Loudspeakers
Would buying coloured shellac be a better option that oil based stain?
I ideally want a finish similar to pic2 from evanc but a little darker.
Sorry for no pics yet its not as easy for yous to give advise sometimes, and appreciate all this advise.
My design goal is similar to the Seas Idunn, same woofers and size cab volume only smaller height more depth, different tweeter.
Seas Idunn:
Idunn
Tweeter:
H1212-06 27TBFC/G
Different bass reflex exit a vent not a port similar to these:
Acoustic Energy Award-Winning British Hi-Fi Loudspeakers
Plywood can be had with many different species of wood as the veneer layer. That box is sepele. If you want darker that wood stains very well ...looks great colored with a dark walnut stain.
You can get shellac that still has its color, but imo this is more for toning the final finish then setting the base color.
You can get shellac that still has its color, but imo this is more for toning the final finish then setting the base color.
I think your right it does look like sepele and can understand your point about coloured shellac is more for toning the the finish.
p.s. your location sounds great, sounds much better than 'About an hour from Manchester Airport and 1 min from Stockport Train station' haha
p.s. your location sounds great, sounds much better than 'About an hour from Manchester Airport and 1 min from Stockport Train station' haha
Evanc, that ligth box is beautiful, is it ash or sycamore? I used a similar veneer on my Curvy Changs many moons ago.
Stewart, sunny Stockpot, I had many a happy commute to Baxall there in the early 90's, now exist in sunny Blackburn, just up the road.
Mahoganies of all types aren't my cup of tea, I love either nice figured light woods or the browner species of darker woods (Walnut etc.) I think it is a reactio0n to the overabundance of sapele and similar doors in the late 70-80s, summer job at Magnet Southerns, when you have pulled 200 doors of a rack so they can find 5 that match perfectly (real wood veneer!!!)
you develop aversion therapy.
Stewart, sunny Stockpot, I had many a happy commute to Baxall there in the early 90's, now exist in sunny Blackburn, just up the road.
Mahoganies of all types aren't my cup of tea, I love either nice figured light woods or the browner species of darker woods (Walnut etc.) I think it is a reactio0n to the overabundance of sapele and similar doors in the late 70-80s, summer job at Magnet Southerns, when you have pulled 200 doors of a rack so they can find 5 that match perfectly (real wood veneer!!!)
you develop aversion therapy.
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Nice, another of my favourite woods. looked a bit similar to this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/106911-curvy-chang-thread-31.html#post1338145
which if I remember correctly was sycamore...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/106911-curvy-chang-thread-31.html#post1338145
which if I remember correctly was sycamore...
It looks like it could be plain sawn English Sycamore. Our American Sycamore is different.
Yes as far as I can remember it is English sycamore. I wanted birds eye maple for the speaker chamber and a quilted effect maple for the outside, but veneers over here are rather expensive and it was going to cost over 400 quid...
I'll look up American Sycamore...
All this is making me nostalgic, due to work commitments I haven't done any wood work for about 3 years, might have to dig my tools out this summer, especially as we are getting the new series of "the New Yankee Workshop"
I'll look up American Sycamore...
All this is making me nostalgic, due to work commitments I haven't done any wood work for about 3 years, might have to dig my tools out this summer, especially as we are getting the new series of "the New Yankee Workshop"
Yes as far as I can remember it is English sycamore. I wanted birds eye maple for the speaker chamber and a quilted effect maple for the outside, but veneers over here are rather expensive and it was going to cost over 400 quid...
I'll look up American Sycamore...
All this is making me nostalgic, due to work commitments I haven't done any wood work for about 3 years, might have to dig my tools out this summer, especially as we are getting the new series of "the New Yankee Workshop"
Good Lord! 400 POUNDS sterling for some veneer? I think veneer over here is far less expensive, even if you bought it here and shipped it there.
That was to cover the whole speakers...
An example of UK pricing for decent figured veneers:
Fiddleback Sycamore Veneer 1 (Ripple), Decorative Wood Veneer from Vale Veneers UK
looked at shipping, they add tax and all sorts when it comes in. trust me I envy your access to hardwoods at decent prices, over here because of the green lobby its almost a crime to use real wood🙂
An example of UK pricing for decent figured veneers:
Fiddleback Sycamore Veneer 1 (Ripple), Decorative Wood Veneer from Vale Veneers UK
looked at shipping, they add tax and all sorts when it comes in. trust me I envy your access to hardwoods at decent prices, over here because of the green lobby its almost a crime to use real wood🙂
marce - something that rather gets my goat is when you think about the total carbon footprint of the processes and chemicals involved in the fabrication of reconstituted veneers that are currently in vogue with interior designers.
Aside from the raw fiber these are entirely man made, and there's virtually no limit to the results achievable - some of the more restrained patterns do an excellent job of emulating endangered exotics such as ebony, zebrano, wenge, even santos rosewood - but some of the more "artistic" (eg Brookside Custom Selexions) - I can't see living with those in 10yrs time.
had to vent, sorry
Hey marce is Baxall some sort of camera place in Bredbury? Am sure someone I know called Jackie worked there in the 90's. Ironically I visited Blackburn for the first time only a few weeks ago, Ewood Park, valeted the footballers and staff cars haha
Marce - I developed rather the same ennui in regards to VG fir, knotty pine, western red cedar and red oak. I'm sure they're all noble woods, but just not to my taste for millwork, furniture and certainly speaker enclosures.
On the other hand, I don't think I could ever tire of walnut, cherry or a nice ribbon grain sapele / mahogany - solid or veneers.
To each his own
On the other hand, I don't think I could ever tire of walnut, cherry or a nice ribbon grain sapele / mahogany - solid or veneers.
To each his own
Hu Stewart, Baxall designed CCT equipment, I did quite a few PCBs these. All gone now, another manufacturing/design company all done abroad.
Chris, I'll have a look at these reconstituted veneers, personally though real wood is my preference an all natural look...I suspect it the fact that real wood differs, and as with doors people want perfectly matched, which nature doesn't do.
I can agree with you on Walnut and Cherry, but mahogany these days just doesn't do it. Though I see nice mahoganies in some old old furniture, seems more figured than todays, though that might also be the way it was cut.
Chris, I'll have a look at these reconstituted veneers, personally though real wood is my preference an all natural look...I suspect it the fact that real wood differs, and as with doors people want perfectly matched, which nature doesn't do.
I can agree with you on Walnut and Cherry, but mahogany these days just doesn't do it. Though I see nice mahoganies in some old old furniture, seems more figured than todays, though that might also be the way it was cut.
Umm cherry, i have a 2x10 of highly figured cherry and when you look at the end grain the growth rings are wavy ive been hording it foryears but i think its time to slice out a few veneers for baffles for our next build
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