Hi, I would like some advice on shellac as a sealant.
Me and my friend are making a pair of 2 way bookshelf's with plywood and MDF. We would like to use shellac to seal the MDF panels prior to sanding. My friend is veneering over the MDF and would like a recommendation on a 'off the shelf' product available in the UK. Am using a shellac based sealer before I apply a 3.6mm plywood skin over my MDF.
Me and my friend are making a pair of 2 way bookshelf's with plywood and MDF. We would like to use shellac to seal the MDF panels prior to sanding. My friend is veneering over the MDF and would like a recommendation on a 'off the shelf' product available in the UK. Am using a shellac based sealer before I apply a 3.6mm plywood skin over my MDF.
I use to use shellac a lot for French polishing, now I tend to use more modern finishes, such as this:
Chestnut Melamine Gloss Lacquer - Lacquers, Varnishes & Paints - Stains & Finishing - Fixing, Gluing & Finishing | Axminster.co.uk
and Rustins plastic coating two part stuff. I can get nearly the same look in a 10th of the time, with better heat and water protection. I still think a proper shellac finish looks the best, but these of the new finishes has won me over.
I have also used this to seal the edges of MDF, works a treat used sparingly, stops the finish having a dull look on sanded edges.
Wet Rot Wood Hardener 500ml - Fillers - Decorative Accessories -Decorating & Interiors - Wickes
Chestnut Melamine Gloss Lacquer - Lacquers, Varnishes & Paints - Stains & Finishing - Fixing, Gluing & Finishing | Axminster.co.uk
and Rustins plastic coating two part stuff. I can get nearly the same look in a 10th of the time, with better heat and water protection. I still think a proper shellac finish looks the best, but these of the new finishes has won me over.
I have also used this to seal the edges of MDF, works a treat used sparingly, stops the finish having a dull look on sanded edges.
Wet Rot Wood Hardener 500ml - Fillers - Decorative Accessories -Decorating & Interiors - Wickes
Thanks again marce, really appreciate this advice. This woodworking is all new to me, can only remember ever making a door stop in school around 20 years ago ha.
I love it though, learnt so much, I have been told of an antique furniture restorer that using shellac for finishing will be difficult for a beginner like myself and advised me on staining then varnishing my plywood.
I like your two choices, which one will be easier for me out of the two to use after staining? And do I buy a natural colour filler than stain once applied or stain wood than find right colour filler to fill before lacquer for example? There's so many choices.
All MDF on both our cabinets will be covered with plywood or veneer so MDF won't be getting painted or anything.
p.s. I would prefer a matt finish, not shiny.
I love it though, learnt so much, I have been told of an antique furniture restorer that using shellac for finishing will be difficult for a beginner like myself and advised me on staining then varnishing my plywood.
I like your two choices, which one will be easier for me out of the two to use after staining? And do I buy a natural colour filler than stain once applied or stain wood than find right colour filler to fill before lacquer for example? There's so many choices.
All MDF on both our cabinets will be covered with plywood or veneer so MDF won't be getting painted or anything.
p.s. I would prefer a matt finish, not shiny.
Last edited:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-190.html#post2847520
Melamine lacquer, thinned down a bit, applied with a foam brush, sanded 2000 grit w&D after each coat.
Quick drying and easy to apply, love the stuff.
Melamine lacquer, thinned down a bit, applied with a foam brush, sanded 2000 grit w&D after each coat.
Quick drying and easy to apply, love the stuff.
Hey great OB floorstanders marce! What a fantastic work of art 🙂
Am I right in thinking that the w&d sanding after each coat will give a smooth non shiny finish? Thanks again for all your help.
Am I right in thinking that the w&d sanding after each coat will give a smooth non shiny finish? Thanks again for all your help.
Why do you want to seal the MDF before gluing on a panel or veneer? You won't get a good bond if you are using a typical water based wood glue.
As for a finish coat, tung oil based products are usually the best and easiest to work with. My favorite is Waterlox.
Waterlox Tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
Shellac is easy to use and provides a good finish also, but it is much more delicate than tung oil based finishes.
Waterlox Tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
Shellac is easy to use and provides a good finish also, but it is much more delicate than tung oil based finishes.
Cheers, they are fun to listen to as well, cant beat 4x15" woofers🙂
forgot I use this as well:
Microcrystalline Wax
Chestnut Products - First for Finishes
The finish is not a mega shiny gloss, probably half way between high gloss and satin, I believe using the wax and 0000 wire wool you can vary the final level of gloss.
forgot I use this as well:
Microcrystalline Wax
Chestnut Products - First for Finishes
The finish is not a mega shiny gloss, probably half way between high gloss and satin, I believe using the wax and 0000 wire wool you can vary the final level of gloss.
Never tried Tung oil, always wanted to give it a go, but don't do much woodwork now as I used to. I have used Danish oil in the past and like that finish. but found the newer finishes very hard wearing and maintenance free, which is important to me these days.
Hi dirkwright, thanks for your input.
I have read using a shellac based sealer will give better adhesion once sanded, is this not true?
Waterlox looks fantastic yet a little expensive for me I think.
Cheers marce, me being a car valeter for respected car showrooms and famous people I do like the idea of using waxes. I do have very expensive carnauba waxes yet I believe automotive waxes can't be used on wood. Anyone confirm this?
Marce those 4x15" must shake your room yet I seen you quote it's the SQ what surprising, I'll get a design like yours one day, thanks for sharing your work!
I have read using a shellac based sealer will give better adhesion once sanded, is this not true?
Waterlox looks fantastic yet a little expensive for me I think.
Cheers marce, me being a car valeter for respected car showrooms and famous people I do like the idea of using waxes. I do have very expensive carnauba waxes yet I believe automotive waxes can't be used on wood. Anyone confirm this?
Marce those 4x15" must shake your room yet I seen you quote it's the SQ what surprising, I'll get a design like yours one day, thanks for sharing your work!
I do not believe it is true, no. It makes no sense to me if you are using a water based glue (Titebond, etc).
Yes, Waterlox is not cheap, but it is awesome stuff. I get the best finishes using it.
You can use any wax you want on finished wood. Some automotive wax finishes have mild abrasives in them to polish the paint when rubbed on. I suppose they could be too rough for a wood finish but have never tried it. A pure carnauba would be awesome on wood finishes. Do you mean wax on bare unfinished wood?
Waterlox is a great finish..thinned down with mineral spirits and wiped on could not be easier. Considering the work that goes into a well made speaker the cost seems trivial.
I agree with dirkwright shellac will stop the glue from bonding. Under other finishes it is good as a seal coat. Make sure it is dewaxed, and apply a thinned out coat.
I get shellac flakes from here: Shellac I imagine there would be someone closer to you.
Mix what you need...once mixed it has a limited shelf life.
Evan
I agree with dirkwright shellac will stop the glue from bonding. Under other finishes it is good as a seal coat. Make sure it is dewaxed, and apply a thinned out coat.
I get shellac flakes from here: Shellac I imagine there would be someone closer to you.
Mix what you need...once mixed it has a limited shelf life.
Evan
I don't run them that loud, though they can generate quite a few dB without straining.
Ha, interesting, yes Danish oil has Tung oil in it as well as about a 1/3rd varnish. As said I have used this and got some nice results.
googled it🙂
Ha, interesting, yes Danish oil has Tung oil in it as well as about a 1/3rd varnish. As said I have used this and got some nice results.
googled it🙂
Thanks again dirkwright I'll skip the MDF sealer then because I'm using Titebond 2.
I have 100% carnauba waxes from South America, the best wax for protecting vehicles paintwork I've used in 15 years, only lasts for 3 months though. Synthetic sealers last much longer. I would not use waxes with abrasives and this might be why I've read I can't use them.
I was thinking using a wax on the finish. Is it better to use wax before or after finishing, I get the feeling waxing before won't let the Waterlox (example) work well.
I have 100% carnauba waxes from South America, the best wax for protecting vehicles paintwork I've used in 15 years, only lasts for 3 months though. Synthetic sealers last much longer. I would not use waxes with abrasives and this might be why I've read I can't use them.
I was thinking using a wax on the finish. Is it better to use wax before or after finishing, I get the feeling waxing before won't let the Waterlox (example) work well.
Thanks evanc seems like Waterlox is quite well liked, I will have to consider Waterlox. Good point about the cost.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.