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Active filter board GB

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#605
Hi quickshift

You have to connect the +Vout of the positive supply to V+ on the filterboard.
The -Vout of the negative supply to the V- of the filterboard.
Connect the grounds of the positive and negative supply together and to the star earth point.

The markings on the PSU's are correct, you don't have to cross the wires.

kees.
 
#607
Hi,
I have had another look at the filter PCB.
Both holes adjacent to V+ and adjacent to V- are for supply.
the third hole in each group is the 0volt/common.
0v/common is connected to all the cold connections in each audio signal pair (usually the one on the right, or for HP & LP the one at the bottom).

PSU V+ to Filter V+
PSU V- to Filter V-
PSU+ 0V to Filter+ 0V
PSU- 0V to Filter- 0V
Filter 0v to central ground
Central ground to 100r(5W) to safety earth
Mains cable earth wire to safety earth
optional: bypass 100r with inverse parallel power diodes.
Choose how to connect RCAs barrels:
RCAs to central ground (only one screen end connected),
or
RCAs to each other and one to central ground (only one screen end connected),
or
RCAs to respective cold inputs/outputs (both screen ends connected), this last is likely to hum,
whichever is quieter.
 
#608
Note that there are three pads in a triangle for power connections. The two pads closest to the V+ and V- labels are joined. The third pad in each cluster is ground.

Bring the positive lead from the Positive regulator to the V+ connection and the negative lead of the Negative Regulator to the V- connection. You can use the extra hole on the first AF4 board to provide a power connection to the other, or run its leads separately. Run a wire from each PSU ground and one of the AF4 grounds (on each board) to your star ground.

You could run the ground connections on your PSU to the AF4 board and daisy chain them, but you are more likely to run into ground loop problems that way.
 
#609
Motion,

Sorry, I thought I had replied earlier but I guess I forgot to hit the "submit reply" button.

At a minimum, use a bridge, caps and LM7815 and LM7915 regulators. I think that the LM317 and LM319 will preform better, but require that you purchase four more resistors compared to the 7815/7915 solution. 😉 The LM7815 or LM317 circuits are simple enough to build on prototype board if you don't find any ready made boards (Rod Elliot and Peranders have some regulator boards for sale IIRC)

Bob
 
#613
I really must be some kind of muppet :bawling: 😀

I've wired everything up but now I get 20.4V DC at all the RCAs...

+ve PSU to +ve AF4
-ve PSU to -ve AF4
+0v and -0v to AF4 - I'll connect the PSU 0vs direct to star tomorrow.
AF4 ground to star ground
+ I/O to RCA centers (checked carefully and used the non grounded pads and followed advice)
RCA outers individually to star ground

I got the -15v,0v,0v +15v points using a DMM - Looking at the PSU board with the DC outputs facing me, I've got the following connections...

(-ve block) (+ve block)

-15v and 0v 0v and +15v

If I measure the voltage between -0v and +0v I get -6.67v :smash: 😕 but I get -15v and +15v across each individual block as I'd expect.

I'm going to leave this alone until tomorrow - at this rate something will explode or catch fire. 😱
 
#614
OK, all sorted, it works now 🙂

I'm stupid.

I have dual secondaries and connected a positive and negative board to each. I swapped them about so the positives were on one secondary and the negatives on another and bingo - it all works perfectly.

Thanks again for all the help 🙂
 
#615
Ok, I'd like to avoid making my own PS board from a proto-board so this is a call out to anyone who might have an extra PS board or kit! I only have 4 active filter boards so I only need one DIY PSU 2.2 board or kit! I would very much prefer the kit, but I'd also be happy with a board. Thanks very much!
 
#618
arjscott/Bob:

Indeed, I found that project as well. The only downside to that is I've ordered boards from Rod before and while his designs seem really excellent and he's a really sharp guy, the PCB quality is REALLY poor. I spent about a week troubleshooting a whisker, left by the etching process, that shorted two traces together. Not cool. This PS board is a lot simpler than the board I had before so it would be easier to visually inspect, but I REALLY like the quality of Bob/Jens boards so the PSU 2.2 would be preferable. Also, as much as I like searching the Digikey site, if I could find a kit available that would be even better. It just simplifies the whole process for me, but you're right, that is an alternative solution.
 
#619
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