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#2,061
Spectra Panels

Hi Andy
I'm putting together a Spectra 66 from some of the 5 wire Spectra Panels I have. I have noticed that I have two different types of Spectra panels. The difference is that on one type of panel the aluminum contact for the diaphragm is about 1/2" long and on the other type it is it is about 3 " long. Was this done for reliability?
Thanks
 
#2,062
Spectra Panels

Hi Andy
I'm putting together a Spectra 66 from some of the 5 wire Spectra Panels I have. I have noticed that I have two different types of Spectra panels. The difference is that on one type of panel the aluminum contact for the diaphragm is about 1/2" long and on the other type it is it is about 3 " long. Was this done for reliability?
Thanks
 
#2,063
Atom666 said:
Hi Andy
I'm putting together a Spectra 66 from some of the 5 wire Spectra Panels I have. I have noticed that I have two different types of Spectra panels. The difference is that on one type of panel the aluminum contact for the diaphragm is about 1/2" long and on the other type it is it is about 3 " long. Was this done for reliability?
Thanks
Click to expand...


I don't recall any details regarding changes that might have been made to the size of the bias tab. Can't remember everything. I wouldn't obsess over the difference.
 
#2,064
jmrathbun said:
Thanks for your advice on my 2+2. I guess I need more!


If there's a guide to tearing one of these things down and replacing one of the lower panels, please point me to it. If not, I need your advice even more.


I believe, from marks on the wood along the top part of the frame, that this is the same unit on which I already replaced one of the panels about 20 years ago. I can't find a problem on the wiring below the unit, so I'm hoping the problem is with the connections I made inside the unit way back when (rather than trying to run three wires through that complicated channel at the bottom). The bad panel is on the bottom row, unfortunately, which is where I recall the problem being before.



Somehow, with the help of a young audiophile from across the street, we get that cloth rolled down to where we were able to replace the bad unit and redo the wiring. OK, I'm twenty years older now, and there are no young guys I can call on for help this time. My wife can hold things for a few minutes but she's no spring chicken and recently needed back surgery. My back is OK so far, but I'm a retired gent and having trouble getting that cloth even halfway down the frame. I looked at going up from the bottom but it's evident that's not the way I did it before, and those grommets look like a problem.


I sure hope I find something wrong with the wiring because the price for a replacement panel is about what I'd expect to pay for a new speaker system of good enough quality to suit my aging ears. OTOH, disposing of these units is not a trivial task, and I'm a long way from major urban centers, so even taking one for service is a PITA.


So, any advice on how to salvage it without needing back surgery?
Click to expand...


I wish I could offer some sort of magic advice, but the fact is that disassembling the panel array from the interface and base, pulling down (or up) the grille cloth, and replacing the panel is no easy task. Regardless of your age or physical capabilities, this is not a solo job: you need a helper.


Unless someone is gouging you on the cost of a replacement panel, replacing a panel is a worthwhile investment. In good working order, your speakers still have considerable value, typically around $800-$1000/pair.
 
#2,065
Rewire 2+2

I finally got the thing taken apart but the red and black wires were very snug at the bottom and are now separated from the panel. Impossible to know when this separation occurred. There's enough wire left that I can run patches if I can figure out the best way to tap into the red and black terminals. I can tell which of the red and black wires run to the top two panels, but the wiring for the bottom panels is so snug where it passes into the enclosure that I haven't yet found a way to sort them out. If I can get some suggestions for that part, I think I can manage the rest.
 
#2,066
jmrathbun said:
I finally got the thing taken apart but the red and black wires were very snug at the bottom and are now separated from the panel. Impossible to know when this separation occurred. There's enough wire left that I can run patches if I can figure out the best way to tap into the red and black terminals. I can tell which of the red and black wires run to the top two panels, but the wiring for the bottom panels is so snug where it passes into the enclosure that I haven't yet found a way to sort them out. If I can get some suggestions for that part, I think I can manage the rest.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you have one of the original style 2+2's, with the MK-121-2A interface. As mentioned above, I recommend a COMPLETE disassembly of interface chassis (metal box), base, and panel array. Then you should have free access to the wires. Trying to do the repair with all three connected will be nigh impossible.
 
#2,071
This type is for sale on the web....I also have some of these...good luck
 

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#2,073
Best cable to install in the floor standing

Hello all as the title says. I have opened up the episode k3 speakers and to my surprise they have used the most cheapest cables. They could off used. I want to replace all the internal cables. What would be a good choice to use. Many thanks lee
 
#2,077
#2,078
Thanks, I just did. I looked at other threads too and found nothing on the topic. I hoped that people here who have used and repaired Acoustat speakers for long time have thought about this and may have something to say. I will not post here anymore, sorry.
 
#2,079
are both these drivers genuine?

I bought a second pair of acoustat spectra 11s for my mother recently and they were in nicer condition than the ones I own but I notice the drivers are not the same did they all use the same ones in the run of this model or has someone changed one out on me -I have no idea all I know is the immaculate ones have a different bass driver has a satin shiny finish and the other ones have ones with a larger dust cap- any guesses i have photos but i dont know how to compress the file to post it
 
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