ok and here is a few shots of the controller card here is a shot of the uderside of it and the wires going to the small relay, all of the wires on this pcb are my modds, the controller doesnt have any on it normally, its all been tested and works fine with no interferences in the signal. Also i have drilled some holes for the cables to come through, this isnt a updated pic of when i finnished it , the updated that i havnt taken yet has another resistor and wire under the pcb, also another plugg at the front when u will see the plugg and relay pic, the white on the wire is heat shrink over a resistor that solderd on the wire.
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ok and here is a close up of the wires that go to the micro relay, the holes that the wires go to is where i drilled them and where the pins of the relay come out, the relay is super guled onto the pcb and is also solderd to a ground plane on the pcb for an earth. The soldering looks alittle rough but i can asure u thats A grade soldering once again my cam has let me down lol ( i think ill buy a dogg soon and give the cam to the dogg for a toy! )
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ok and here is a shot of the relay side of things, there is a plugg missing in this shot as its outdated as mentioned before but the plugg thats been fitted in there now is inbetween the 2 in this pic, they have also been super glued on. Once again the white stuff over the wires is heat shrink to protect the wires from any acidental shorts and neatness although it could have been abit neater with the nice size up heat shrink lol
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ok and this is some super fine soldering, once again the cam makes it look like its crap but in real life that soldering is spot on and very tiny and neat, the 2 wires u see here are the remote sensor wires, once i found them i didnt need the button pcb any more so i have that thrown in a cubourd for a rainy day (or spare parts the small leds that are on it are smd leds, they are perfect for modding a mobile phone with a blue lcd backlight and to have blue buttons), as u can well, cant quite see the solder contacts on the conector i solderd to are about 1/4 of the size of a smd resistor so make sure u have a very sharp soldering iron tip to do that mod, well thats about it guys ill have more pics soon, im still waiting on my mylar and frensel but it should be in any day so i can then start the pyramid of the light engine.
Trev
Trev
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We are few french canadians here in CANADA and we are all newbies watching your project with great attention.
Your project decide us to go in that kind of projector.
After a lot of reading and searching we have some question for
you.
What kind of mirror do you use,is it surface or regular very thin mirror and what is the result on the projected image.
Do you have a keystone effect on the horizontal plan.,i mean does the right side of the image is wider than the left side.
Maybe that question has already been answer but we did not find an answer yet.
Thanks and continue your excellent work.
Your project decide us to go in that kind of projector.
After a lot of reading and searching we have some question for
you.
What kind of mirror do you use,is it surface or regular very thin mirror and what is the result on the projected image.
Do you have a keystone effect on the horizontal plan.,i mean does the right side of the image is wider than the left side.
Maybe that question has already been answer but we did not find an answer yet.
Thanks and continue your excellent work.
chasse
heya buddy, no i dont have any keystone problem, if one side of the image is out to the other, say the left side of the image is higer then the right side that would be because the mirror isnt at 45deg or lined up properly to the lcd, i use front surface mirror, if u use the regular mirror then u will get ghosting and also image shift, also u may find the left side biger then the right as the normal mirror wont fully reflect the image perfectly at 45deg, as for a keystone corection well i could impliment one in this but just lol, there isnt much room infront of the lcd because the focal on this projection lens is quite short but it is doable, most probally u would get a maxium keystone correction of 20 deg, the next model i may impliment the keystone ajustment for a vertical plane.
Trev
heya buddy, no i dont have any keystone problem, if one side of the image is out to the other, say the left side of the image is higer then the right side that would be because the mirror isnt at 45deg or lined up properly to the lcd, i use front surface mirror, if u use the regular mirror then u will get ghosting and also image shift, also u may find the left side biger then the right as the normal mirror wont fully reflect the image perfectly at 45deg, as for a keystone corection well i could impliment one in this but just lol, there isnt much room infront of the lcd because the focal on this projection lens is quite short but it is doable, most probally u would get a maxium keystone correction of 20 deg, the next model i may impliment the keystone ajustment for a vertical plane.
Trev
ok i dont have any pics of the projected image results because of my camera being up to crap, ill have to try and borrow a cam to take a few screen shots, ok ive only run a few tests with it on composite video and its very bright, i had the last test running through my cable tv set top box and the image is very bright and clear, it would have to be about 3x clearer then my tv, the screen door isnt noticable, some may argue that but im not lieing, u can hardly see it, at a 2m distance from the screen u cant see it, u have to be right up front close to the image to see any screen door, but on vga u will see that screen door come out more as things like the internet and computer desktops are very bright and vga is pixel perfect, i havnt tried the vga yet being projected but i have run the computer through it in the composite video out on my video card and any very white scenes u will see the screen door, is the screen door big? nope not at all and i had my image projected at over 120", the screen door u will see in all resolutions on all lcd projectors, its just a matter on how far u sit from the projected image to not see the screen door, higher resolutions help and alow us to sit closer to the image but they still have screen door, its just a part of lcd technology.
Trev
Hi TREV
One more question.Did you ever try to shorten the focal lenght of the tripplet with a MINISCUS lens, to get rid of the mirror...
thanks
One more question.Did you ever try to shorten the focal lenght of the tripplet with a MINISCUS lens, to get rid of the mirror...
thanks
Hi Ace: I'm readng Everything and I Want to make this too...
A Big Thank you. Great Job here...
I'm Learning a Lot, And I Will Post soon on My Projector.
MovLab 🙂
A Big Thank you. Great Job here...
I'm Learning a Lot, And I Will Post soon on My Projector.
MovLab 🙂
movlab
thanks movlab, it will be interesting to see your creation, and best of luck with it.
Trev
thanks movlab, it will be interesting to see your creation, and best of luck with it.
Trev
chasse
nope, im using the mirror to correct the image the right way round and to also make this form factor of the projector possible, mirrors dont use much light if its a front surface mirror, (if anything noticable), but however a normal mirror will, the focal is short enough to make the projector without any modds to the triplet, i dont fool much with triplets as they are fairly much in their optimum state out of the factory, so if u wanted a shorter focal id recomend u to buy a triplet that has a shorter focal, on this lcd i wouldnt go any shorter then 180mm focal without a mirror and no shorter then 240mm with a mirror.
Trev
nope, im using the mirror to correct the image the right way round and to also make this form factor of the projector possible, mirrors dont use much light if its a front surface mirror, (if anything noticable), but however a normal mirror will, the focal is short enough to make the projector without any modds to the triplet, i dont fool much with triplets as they are fairly much in their optimum state out of the factory, so if u wanted a shorter focal id recomend u to buy a triplet that has a shorter focal, on this lcd i wouldnt go any shorter then 180mm focal without a mirror and no shorter then 240mm with a mirror.
Trev
az
as much as it takes lol, ok ive spent abit but because i had to buy tools ect, to make one normally it would cost about 500 - 700 usd, it depends on where u get your light from ect, there isnt a fixed cost, thats why its best to buy your gear as cheap as possible, i could get my money back on this from ebay no worries and probally have a profit too, ive spent about 700 on mine thats with tools included also shipping has uped my price. I have actually spent more recently but thats for higher tech later down the track.
Trev
as much as it takes lol, ok ive spent abit but because i had to buy tools ect, to make one normally it would cost about 500 - 700 usd, it depends on where u get your light from ect, there isnt a fixed cost, thats why its best to buy your gear as cheap as possible, i could get my money back on this from ebay no worries and probally have a profit too, ive spent about 700 on mine thats with tools included also shipping has uped my price. I have actually spent more recently but thats for higher tech later down the track.
Trev
The viewing angle of your LCD is 30 deg. up/down and 60 deg. left/right.Is the same angle applies to the back of it.
If a light is coming at a 30 deg. angle from the back of it, what would be the result on the image.
If these new LCD are built like this,a good diffuse light trought a condenser might allow us to get rid of the frensel.
JUST AN IDEA.....
If a light is coming at a 30 deg. angle from the back of it, what would be the result on the image.
If these new LCD are built like this,a good diffuse light trought a condenser might allow us to get rid of the frensel.
JUST AN IDEA.....
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