That supply at the DIY store is $49.00. Not expensive but not cheap.
Can you elaborate on what is meant by 'slightly better'? How would that be characterized in sound quality? Thanks!
That is great info to have, Mark. Thanks for investigating it.
When I get to build this, I'm hoping to use one or two of three regulated linear PS that I bought used and have available. They are Power One or International Power 24V units that are either 4.8A or 7.2A. For those not familiar with them, they are industrial open frame supplies (often used in machine tools and the like) and if one is a bit patient, they can be had rather economically off of ebay. I bought each of the above for $35 delivered, and they were in very good used condition. An example is shown below.
I've used some lower-powered (0.8A and 3A) 15V and 24V versions of these units to power HD radio tuners and a TDA1387-based DAC, and have been very happy with the results. I am careful to power them off while not in use to avoid needless wasting of energy.
Peter
Attachments
Progress with my build. I have 2 psu to try 25V 6A toroid into capmx. Or a MW 24v smps. One of the big fan cooled shiny ones. Will be interesting if I can hear a difference, or atleast if it is one worth bothering with.
Thanks to N.Brock for the concept and Mark for the boards.
Thanks to N.Brock for the concept and Mark for the boards.
Hi Peter
These are indeed quiet supply but make sure to add the required external fuse.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Yes, of course. On these larger supplies, I plan to mount an IEC inlet with integrated switch and fuse to the frame. I won’t be making a cutout (the Al plate of the frame is 1/8” thick), but securely lashing the IEC module to the frame using sturdy zip ties through two of the appropriately placed holes that are already there. The IEC modules will also allow me to use up some of the many power cords I’ve accumulated from old computers.
Yes, of course. On these larger supplies, I plan to mount an IEC inlet with integrated switch and fuse to the frame. I won’t be making a cutout (the Al plate of the frame is 1/8” thick), but securely lashing the IEC module to the frame using sturdy zip ties through two of the appropriately placed holes that are already there. The IEC modules will also allow me to use up some of the many power cords I’ve accumulated from old computers.
I think that the 3.75A version is good enough and overkill for one mono channel. Search for Mean Well gst90a24-p1m, it costs something like 30€ in UE
Good thing your MOSFET pressure-spreading "fender washers" are smaller than the PCB cutout holes. Now when you decide to remove the amp from the heatsink to install the up-facing "glow LEDs" and the power on/off switch, you have a pretty good chance of putting it all back together again. Especially if the fender washers are magnetic and you use a magnetic pickup tool to gently lower them through the cutout hole.
Many thanks Mark. The whole merit is yours (your boards and NBrock's great idea). Now waiting for MeanWell SMPS
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While you wait, finish up that tasty beverage I see in the background there... Let us know how they work together 😛 (Or are you also waiting on transformers?) Gah! Looks great BTW—I gave it a LIKE!.
There are now a total of 70 RACAM PCBs in the hands of diyAudio members, establishing an informal distribution network around the world. (link)
Awesome Mark! Thanks for getting this going so quickly. I've been a bit busy lately with moving to a new apartment and starting a new job which is why it's been quiet on my end the past month or so. Thanks for picking up my slack! I am still working on making kits, just a little slower than some would like (including myself!)
There's an strenage new world 🖖😁 of heatsinks for big LEDs...Hi N Brock,
Very nice work and amazing thinking to get us away from making a chassis or having to solder any wires. Bravo!
Some of them are very inspiring:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32920451218.html
Hello everybody!
I've put together an interest form to help gauge demand in my kit. I'm not ready to take orders yet, but knowing what the quantity might be will be really helpful.
Please only fill out if you are likely to purchase once offered, this form is meant to limit my personal risk. The target quantity for a first run is 100 kits since that's where the price breaks start to make parts meaningfully cheaper.
https://forms.gle/ooUZA57MEFPZQmgk8
This is not a group buy sign up sheet. Filling out this form does not mean you have ordered or reserved a kit.
I've put together an interest form to help gauge demand in my kit. I'm not ready to take orders yet, but knowing what the quantity might be will be really helpful.
Please only fill out if you are likely to purchase once offered, this form is meant to limit my personal risk. The target quantity for a first run is 100 kits since that's where the price breaks start to make parts meaningfully cheaper.
https://forms.gle/ooUZA57MEFPZQmgk8
This is not a group buy sign up sheet. Filling out this form does not mean you have ordered or reserved a kit.
What kind of diy speakers would you recommend for this kind of setup? Diy preamp, as well? I'm currently building the 1.8 kits (my first builds) to work with a fully balanced headphone rig. But this seems perfect for a low profile, near field listening area.
It's an Amp Camp Amp, monoblock, in a very exciting form factor. Check the ACA threads to learn which speakers have worked especially well for other DIYers who built themselves an ACA. The ACA made its debut in June 2012 (link to original discussion) , DIYers have been building and loving ACAs for almost ten years (!)