C2M0280120D
Hi Eric,
I bought 4 of those and was going to try them, and then Tungsten mentioned the C3M0160120D. Comparing the 2, the C3 has higher Transcondance of around 5 vs the C2 with around 2.5. It seems that I read somewhere about Mr. Pass mentioning the higher transcondance helping lower the distortion. The other reason I tried the C3 was it's higher dissipation of 97 watts vs the C2 of around 62 watts. I was a little concerned with the lower dissipation of C2, though I have 4 of them. C3 was more viable between the 2. The input and output capacitance was higher on the C3 also. I did notice that with the C3 in both positions, the bass was there, but noticeably less substantial than I heard with the IRFP044's, which I liked with my open baffles roll off in the bass. That is why I decided to try the 44N10's in Q2 to try and bring back some of the bottom end, which it did, but I didn't loose all the clarity I had with the C3 as both Q 1&2. I still don't have the bass I had with the 044's, but the added clarity of the CREE is hard to walk away from once you have heard it.
The 44N10 had better dissipation and is a higher voltage part than the 044's, and has very similar specs to the 044, so I chose the more robust part.
Den
Hi Eric,
I bought 4 of those and was going to try them, and then Tungsten mentioned the C3M0160120D. Comparing the 2, the C3 has higher Transcondance of around 5 vs the C2 with around 2.5. It seems that I read somewhere about Mr. Pass mentioning the higher transcondance helping lower the distortion. The other reason I tried the C3 was it's higher dissipation of 97 watts vs the C2 of around 62 watts. I was a little concerned with the lower dissipation of C2, though I have 4 of them. C3 was more viable between the 2. The input and output capacitance was higher on the C3 also. I did notice that with the C3 in both positions, the bass was there, but noticeably less substantial than I heard with the IRFP044's, which I liked with my open baffles roll off in the bass. That is why I decided to try the 44N10's in Q2 to try and bring back some of the bottom end, which it did, but I didn't loose all the clarity I had with the C3 as both Q 1&2. I still don't have the bass I had with the 044's, but the added clarity of the CREE is hard to walk away from once you have heard it.
The 44N10 had better dissipation and is a higher voltage part than the 044's, and has very similar specs to the 044, so I chose the more robust part.
Den
Hi Den
Thanks for doing all these tests and reporting back, much appreciated.
Regarding the 44N10 all I can find is a small TO220...I was expecting a TO247 format. Am I looking at the wrong transistors?
Is there a combination that provided the full bass response like with the 044 or 44N10 AND the clarity from the CREE ?
Thanks
Eric
Thanks for doing all these tests and reporting back, much appreciated.
Regarding the 44N10 all I can find is a small TO220...I was expecting a TO247 format. Am I looking at the wrong transistors?
Is there a combination that provided the full bass response like with the 044 or 44N10 AND the clarity from the CREE ?
Thanks
Eric
Eric,
FQH44N10-F133 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
is the Mouser listing.
I have not found a CREE that has the same bass as the 044 or 44N10.
There was a CREE's that I was wanting, will get you the number
C2M0080120D that looks a better canidate for better bass, but it won't be available till 3/2021 at Mouser. Haven't seen it anywhere else.
The bass is solid with the C3 though, not hard to live with
. The sound has a relaxed character, hard to describe. Much cleaner and less nasal in the midrange. For now, I will take the bass I have plus the added resolution and clarity. Probably the sound is more balanced actually with the CREE and 44N10, I was just so thrilled to get that bass out of my open baffles speakers, but like I said, it is really amazing mids now too.Den
Den
Tungsten,
I like the 44N10 much better paired with the CREE than I did with the 044, at least on my speakers. With the CREE, it really is a nice combo.
Eric,
FQH44N10-F133 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
is the Mouser listing.
I have not found a CREE that has the same bass as the 044 or 44N10.
There was a CREE's that I was wanting, will get you the number
C2M0080120D that looks a better canidate for better bass, but it won't be available till 3/2021 at Mouser. Haven't seen it anywhere else.
The bass is solid with the C3 though, not hard to live with
Den
Eric and Tungsten,
If your pockets are deep, just found them at Newark, but they are close to 18 bucks a pop, but they tempt me
Den
The polymer cap is a polarized cap. Are you talking about C4 which he suggests to raise to a 100uf, or C2, which is a 1000uf cap that he uses a polymer for also. Both of those are polarized.
You could use a bi-polar cap for C3, the input capacitor. Actually I use a bi-polar muse for C3, but you will need a polarized cap for C4 and C2.
You could use a bi-polar cap for C3, the input capacitor. Actually I use a bi-polar muse for C3, but you will need a polarized cap for C4 and C2.
I did not do a critical comparison, but I had the Muse here, and have used them in the past with good results. I did by pass the input cap with a .1uf poly to help clear the high frequencies, and did use a 22uf value instead of the 10uf just to lower the low frequency cutoff, but actually, it is probably overkill. Many just use the 10uf Elna Silmic that comes with the kit with good results, and some use a higher quality film capacitor for the input. As is often said, the best cap is no cap, but it is good to have one on the input to block the possibility of DC entering the circuit
It seems that there may be some confusion about 'polymer' caps that have been recommended. What I have selected for several of the ACA capacitor locations are known as Aluminum Organic Polymer. These are a form of aluminum electrolytic capacitor that uses an organic polymer material in the electrolyte. Similar to the Elna Silmic caps, which use silk in the electrolyte, these are said to reduce distortion and improve audio performance.
I used Nichicon Aluminum Organic Polymer capacitors in the C2 and C4 locations on the ACA. I left the Elna Silmic in place at C3, which is input signal coupling cap. So far, I have built all my ACAs that way. On the other hand, I have used the Nichicon Muse ES series bi-polar caps for signal coupling locations in my M2x and B1 Korg. Bi-polar caps are a form of electrolytic where two capacitors are connected back-to-back internally. Within their voltage rating, they may be used with DC voltage offsets in either direction. The Nichicon ES series have been found to be the best of this type.
In the case of the ACA, I would happily use a 2.2uF, 50V ES series bipolar for C3, which is still overkill for the low frequency cut-off. That value part is a good general purpose one to order and keep around for various audio projects, and is what I will be using for my next pair of ACA monoblocks.
I used Nichicon Aluminum Organic Polymer capacitors in the C2 and C4 locations on the ACA. I left the Elna Silmic in place at C3, which is input signal coupling cap. So far, I have built all my ACAs that way. On the other hand, I have used the Nichicon Muse ES series bi-polar caps for signal coupling locations in my M2x and B1 Korg. Bi-polar caps are a form of electrolytic where two capacitors are connected back-to-back internally. Within their voltage rating, they may be used with DC voltage offsets in either direction. The Nichicon ES series have been found to be the best of this type.
In the case of the ACA, I would happily use a 2.2uF, 50V ES series bipolar for C3, which is still overkill for the low frequency cut-off. That value part is a good general purpose one to order and keep around for various audio projects, and is what I will be using for my next pair of ACA monoblocks.
For a while I am listening Semisouth SJEP120R100 in both Q1 and Q2. But still in use the same gate stoppers (R5, R6) value 104 ohm since back then when had used for IRF240.
Yesterday finally, I placed two trimpots instead of R5 and R6 resistor. please close see pic atch. Centered in the middle of image, those small blue color.
One turn, value 200R, lineal. Before power on, I set them at 104R and draw a black marker line on a side of trimpot as a reference.
In picture (after adjustment while listening music), the black line marker is split, value for SemiSouth is different, I find R6=100R and R5=70R.
Den, nice review, thanks for the insight, I have bought CREE C3M0160120D, I will soon compare against the expensive SJEP120R100.
Jordi
Yesterday finally, I placed two trimpots instead of R5 and R6 resistor. please close see pic atch. Centered in the middle of image, those small blue color.
One turn, value 200R, lineal. Before power on, I set them at 104R and draw a black marker line on a side of trimpot as a reference.
In picture (after adjustment while listening music), the black line marker is split, value for SemiSouth is different, I find R6=100R and R5=70R.
Den, nice review, thanks for the insight, I have bought CREE C3M0160120D, I will soon compare against the expensive SJEP120R100.
Jordi
Attachments
Today I have had hard time in fine tune R6 for Semisouth (Q1), using a much higher precision 10 turns, 100R wirewound pot, let me find 91R as best spot. I can state 89,9 or 91,1 sound worse. This position is signal pass, has great imprint to the final results. So I looked straight to the Charcroft Z-foil resistors catalogue and luckily is available same 91 value!!!
I will buy later, now wants to check out if R5 as 70 ohm is allright, because I have used an small trimpot not reliable, only as coarse setting.
I will buy later, now wants to check out if R5 as 70 ohm is allright, because I have used an small trimpot not reliable, only as coarse setting.
does this work in parallel mode ? by changing the resistor to 30.1k in parallel mode