It have sense in theory but to be honest Iam not aware about practical Voigts constructed in that way.
It crops up from time to time, and in theory it's possible, in practice somewhat harder to achieve. Generally speaking, a better plan tends to be to use an ML-Voigt design that doesn't suffer from these issues in the first place, or at least to an extent so far reduced that it becomes a non-issue. It's largely a question of design optimisation. For e.g. the attached. This is an ML-Voigt; as you can see however, pipe harmonics are suppressed sufficiently for the overall frequency / amplitude response to be reasonably linear. It could be made more so on the graph with a little extra damping, but in practice it's unlikely to require more, and some may prefer a bit less.
Attachments
I've seen that mentioned many times in the thread already but i always dismissed it due to difficulty in construction. If i was going to do a composite build from scratch then i'd consider it.
found the plans here.
was planning on a voigt pipe, now not so sure.
found the plans here.
was planning on a voigt pipe, now not so sure.
The pipe I provided plots of above is no harder to build than the LCofN Voigt pipe. It looks very similar, there are no additional panels, no additional vents, nothing. It's just designed for a specific drive unit, and relatively more highly optimised to suppress the unwanted harmonic modes.
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Nope, no internal panels, unless you feel like adding some bracing. This is (was) one of Dave and my old commercial designs, so I'll have to dig the pdf out -I'm currently on my laptop rather than the desktop. Remember though, that is a speaker design, not a generic pipe: it's designed and [reasonably] optimised to a specific drive unit and will not give that result with anything else. ML-Voigts, aka ML-horns, tapped horns, Voigt pipes, Voigt-horns etc. are no different to any other enclosure type -for best results, you design the dimensions & tuning to a specific driver (and as relevant amplifier) combination, as far as possible anyway.
OK, well keep in mind that I don't want to be pushing people down a particular route -as noted, the object of the above was simply to illustrate that problems with unwanted excessive pipe harmonics are not necessarily endemic to this type of enclosure taken as a whole. Some have them, others do not. Good designs generally minimise them as far as possible. And in fairness, the LCofN Voigt has some positive attributes, with some drive units: high acoustic gain is one of them. No bad thing in itself. The price is that it does have some issues with pipe harmonics.
Tell you what: have a look around at some different wideband / fullrange drive units, tell me which grab your attention and are within your budget, and I'll see if I can work up a one-off for you, if I haven't already done one. Top tip -avoid high Q and low Q drivers if possible. By and large, contrary to popular myth, units that work well in these tend to be drivers that suit regular vented boxes. There are exceptions, but for the present case, we'll keep life simple.
Tell you what: have a look around at some different wideband / fullrange drive units, tell me which grab your attention and are within your budget, and I'll see if I can work up a one-off for you, if I haven't already done one. Top tip -avoid high Q and low Q drivers if possible. By and large, contrary to popular myth, units that work well in these tend to be drivers that suit regular vented boxes. There are exceptions, but for the present case, we'll keep life simple.
spendy
Fostex FE206NV 200mm 8 Ohm Full Range driver
lii audio fast 8
cheap
visaton w200
tonsil woofer gdn 20/40 8ohm
I'll likely end up going for one of these cheaper ones. the tonsil is on amazon so i have dealt with them before. i wasn't kidding when i said i didn't know what speakers to choose.
Fostex FE206NV 200mm 8 Ohm Full Range driver
lii audio fast 8
cheap
visaton w200
tonsil woofer gdn 20/40 8ohm
I'll likely end up going for one of these cheaper ones. the tonsil is on amazon so i have dealt with them before. i wasn't kidding when i said i didn't know what speakers to choose.
Mark Audio CHN110 will outperform both of the spendy drivers you have indicated and likely falls into the cheap category.
Scott has already done a number of pipes for these including a Met just the last couple days. A Met is essentially a prettier (to most eyes) ML-Voigt.
dave
Scott has already done a number of pipes for these including a Met just the last couple days. A Met is essentially a prettier (to most eyes) ML-Voigt.
dave
the metronome has to be set away from the walls a good deal i've read so it has a downside, and then the BIB needs a corner to work in. I don't have much space to work with in my room. I'm happy enough with the voigt pipe as is, just need to deal with the ringing issue.
I could build from scratch and do it right, or write out a cheque to buy one off the shelf but i like to tinker and have something unique.
It seems that the thread has reached a length that has caused posters to repeat themselves.
I could build from scratch and do it right, or write out a cheque to buy one off the shelf but i like to tinker and have something unique.
It seems that the thread has reached a length that has caused posters to repeat themselves.
With a Quadratic taper, a bit more pipe loading than a Voigt to boot!
I have no idea what this term or many terms in fact mean, and even if i did know I would not understand the advantage of pipe loading.
If i had to hazard a guess I would say that the extra two tapered surfaces in a met compared to a voigt causes an acceleration of the negative speaker waves. Would i also be correct in saying that if a met was made out of steel it would be much less susceptable to ringing because of this.
If you prefer cheap drivers Visaton BG 20 is around 30€ and hard to beat for that price. Its a full-range but mainly for proffesional and PA use so dont expect miracles.
It has good bass and works well in vented cabinets so it should in Voigts too.
BG 20 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Monacor SP-200X is similar but more expensive at around 50€, but not sure its better than BG 20. Also mainly for PA.
MONACOR: SP-200X
It has good bass and works well in vented cabinets so it should in Voigts too.
BG 20 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Monacor SP-200X is similar but more expensive at around 50€, but not sure its better than BG 20. Also mainly for PA.
MONACOR: SP-200X
>With a Quadratic taper, a bit more pipe loading than a Voigt to boot!
I have no idea what this term or many terms in fact mean, and even if i did know I would not understand the advantage of pipe loading.
GM means it provides a little more gain (output) than a pipe that expands in a single direction only. These are all expanding pipes (aka horns), just slightly different variations thereof and provide a load to the drive unit which extends the usable low frequency region.
No, sound travels at the speed of sound [SoS] in a box/whatever same as outdoors with any insignificant difference caused by any heat rise, but its acoustic pressure increases in a horn versus a box due to its 1/4 WL eigenmodes [standing waves].
Not less per se since the size/shape sets the modes, just change its 'ringing' tone, lowering the amount of damping required, always a plus in speaker design due to less acoustic efficiency lost to heat.
Again, until the sloped front/rear is > 1:12 [> 4.76 deg] can they properly decay to insignificance on their own [AKA 'slap' echo] ,so would need to have a much large base for a given height than the Voigt or Metronome.
Sometimes it might seem that i'm giving some posters the cold shoulder but it's not, it's just what i read is so advanced i cannot respond at the same level. I appreciate a heads up that what i'm thinking about doing is most likely a failure.
I mounted my glued and split driver today in the other cabinet and wired it up. the metal clang really gets on my nerves when i turn up the volume. I have to wonder, could i stick dampening on the outside of the cabinet and have it work to quell unwanted resonances.
I was showing my setup to a friend and he said he might be able to find me some speakers as he's in a dump from time to time. he was impressed at the bass shaking the room as well as a bit fearful of the cabinet falling on him.
stuffing is generally used above the driver but what would it sound like if i stuffed the entire pipe. would that stop the ringing.
I mounted my glued and split driver today in the other cabinet and wired it up. the metal clang really gets on my nerves when i turn up the volume. I have to wonder, could i stick dampening on the outside of the cabinet and have it work to quell unwanted resonances.
I was showing my setup to a friend and he said he might be able to find me some speakers as he's in a dump from time to time. he was impressed at the bass shaking the room as well as a bit fearful of the cabinet falling on him.
stuffing is generally used above the driver but what would it sound like if i stuffed the entire pipe. would that stop the ringing.