Woofer
Peerless SLS P830667 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...less-sls-p830667-woofer-8-8-ohm-180-wmax.html
Dayton DC250 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...n-audio-dc250-8-woofer-10-8-ohm-140-wmax.html
Dayton DC300 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...n-audio-dc300-8-woofer-12-8-ohm-160-wmax.html
Mid
Audax HM130Z12
Audax HM170Z18 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...udax-hm170z18-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-120wmax.html
FaitalPro 5FE120 8 Ohm - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...tal-5fe120-8-mid-woofer-5-8-ohm-160-wmax.html
SBA SB13pfcr - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...-sb13pfc25-08-mid-woofer-5-8-ohm-80-wmax.html
SBA SB16pfcr - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...s-sb16pfc25-8-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-80-wmax.html
SEAS U16 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...eas-u16rcy-p-mid-woofer-5-8-ohm-250-wmax.html
SEAS U18 - http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...s-u18rnx-p-mid-woofer-6-5-8-ohm-250-wmax.html
Tweeter, whatever you like
I would go with peerless sls-p830667 / u18 (if you are on a budget, the 5fe120 or the sb16 are fine) with x-over frequency at 200-300/2500Hz
See also this http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-861-PFCR.htm
Saluti and have fun
A hint:
Building a loudspeaker is a lot of costs for the cabinet and effort for building and crossover. Therefore for me it makes no sense to make compromises of driver qualitiy because of a several $.
So I would recommend the SB17NBAC for example over its variant from the budget line. A great driver for the money imO.
And a tweeter with no plastic faceplate makes just more fun and looks better at the end.
Generally I recommend drivers where you have a chance to get a replacement after several years.
Regards J-C
Building a loudspeaker is a lot of costs for the cabinet and effort for building and crossover. Therefore for me it makes no sense to make compromises of driver qualitiy because of a several $.
So I would recommend the SB17NBAC for example over its variant from the budget line. A great driver for the money imO.
And a tweeter with no plastic faceplate makes just more fun and looks better at the end.
Generally I recommend drivers where you have a chance to get a replacement after several years.
Regards J-C
+ 10
Again Ginetto can have it all : low price, high efficienty, best drivers, etc at the same time.
It makes sense to build something modular : a cab for the woofer then another stacked for its Dynaudio domes drivers. Something like a PA driver to deal with the baffle step before crossing high to the Dynaudio 2" dome towards ??? 900 hz something.
Faital pro 12pr320 in OSMC or Mezzo Calapamos load ? Buy once, cry once ?
Again Ginetto can have it all : low price, high efficienty, best drivers, etc at the same time.
It makes sense to build something modular : a cab for the woofer then another stacked for its Dynaudio domes drivers. Something like a PA driver to deal with the baffle step before crossing high to the Dynaudio 2" dome towards ??? 900 hz something.
Faital pro 12pr320 in OSMC or Mezzo Calapamos load ? Buy once, cry once ?
Any descend kit comes with a detailed instruction how to build the cabinet. If you follow it, there is no way of not having the desired result.
So even you first speaker build can be an expensive kit as there is no need to fail.
The problem is, beside from you not having the funds to buy any good kit, you have so many completely stupid ideas about speakers and are so unconvincingly sure to know anything better, you are not able to follow any rules = instructions = plans.
This is getting really boring, as you only repeat your not even funny ideas about speakers, testing the patience of any one posting here, trying to help you.
So even you first speaker build can be an expensive kit as there is no need to fail.
The problem is, beside from you not having the funds to buy any good kit, you have so many completely stupid ideas about speakers and are so unconvincingly sure to know anything better, you are not able to follow any rules = instructions = plans.
This is getting really boring, as you only repeat your not even funny ideas about speakers, testing the patience of any one posting here, trying to help you.
Ginetto,
maybe it is time for a new start?
You don't have any money to buy any drivers. OK. Most of us here have financial limitations.
So why don't you take all the old drivers you have collected from the garbage bin and post some good pictures of them?
Then, do the same with the x-over components you have.
Make a list of your tools. Do you have a soldering iron? A digital multimeter?
Maybe some friendly, helpful people here then can make a plan for you, which will result in a descend speaker made from zero $$?
As you do absolutely know nothing about speaker building, you can not judge what you have on the table and what could be made from it. Others may be able to do that for you. The only problem will be your special ideas, which may screw up any well made plan.
maybe it is time for a new start?
You don't have any money to buy any drivers. OK. Most of us here have financial limitations.
So why don't you take all the old drivers you have collected from the garbage bin and post some good pictures of them?
Then, do the same with the x-over components you have.
Make a list of your tools. Do you have a soldering iron? A digital multimeter?
Maybe some friendly, helpful people here then can make a plan for you, which will result in a descend speaker made from zero $$?
As you do absolutely know nothing about speaker building, you can not judge what you have on the table and what could be made from it. Others may be able to do that for you. The only problem will be your special ideas, which may screw up any well made plan.
By the way, speaker building is not about having better speakers than someone else. There are no "giant killers" in the HIFI world, as no one gets killed. It is no war. Also no bragging contest. Maybe you should tattoo that on your forehead.
HIFI is about listening to music. Many concepts are right in the right place.
Sure there are really questionable constructions, but this is the same in any aspect of life, starting with the society you live in.
If you only want to impress others with your speakers, in the end you will miss enjoying music reproduction which makes the whole thing worthless.
HIFI is about listening to music. Many concepts are right in the right place.
Sure there are really questionable constructions, but this is the same in any aspect of life, starting with the society you live in.
If you only want to impress others with your speakers, in the end you will miss enjoying music reproduction which makes the whole thing worthless.
local audio club can be a good help with tools if existing in the area....
Ginetto, you got really good advices here, and if you don't have experience for your own design make for start proven available kit...you will be happy, you will build something on your own, and if you pick the right kit you can play with additional bass units while you are listening music. If you rotate endlessly all possibilities you will only get frustrated...
With 25 m2 room I would not think about small 2-way...only if I would like to extend it in perspective with bass support of any kind. You have here good recommendation for Troels 861 PFCR kit...it should be perfect for your space if you don't want to complicate to much...
My experience:
I have build small 2-way, Eka Ceramic from Audiohobby and will make additional bass bins to make it 3-way. Kit uses SB17CAC plus SB26CDC drivers which in this kit sound wonderful without any changes. Then I bought 4 pieces of SB23NRX midbass units which I will implement in separate box and try to do sealed ~ 90 db 3-way...just working on that project now. I choose this kit only because it uses excellent CAC drivers....
All drivers are first class and depending on experince it is possible to do loudspeakers which could compete with best. And price for units is still not so high...Plus there is a lot of threads here with exactly these drivers - and people can help you when you get in problems...
I'm not doing any advertising or have anything if you buy drive units from anywhere....I'm also not SB fanboy, but they have so good units that I can't resist...
🙂
With 25 m2 room I would not think about small 2-way...only if I would like to extend it in perspective with bass support of any kind. You have here good recommendation for Troels 861 PFCR kit...it should be perfect for your space if you don't want to complicate to much...
My experience:
I have build small 2-way, Eka Ceramic from Audiohobby and will make additional bass bins to make it 3-way. Kit uses SB17CAC plus SB26CDC drivers which in this kit sound wonderful without any changes. Then I bought 4 pieces of SB23NRX midbass units which I will implement in separate box and try to do sealed ~ 90 db 3-way...just working on that project now. I choose this kit only because it uses excellent CAC drivers....
All drivers are first class and depending on experince it is possible to do loudspeakers which could compete with best. And price for units is still not so high...Plus there is a lot of threads here with exactly these drivers - and people can help you when you get in problems...
I'm not doing any advertising or have anything if you buy drive units from anywhere....I'm also not SB fanboy, but they have so good units that I can't resist...
🙂
Of course I was saying can NOT have it all : sorry for the typo... if he could he would had been an experienced designer already !
having lived notable with Harbeth shl5plus, graham ls59, ref 3a decapo, which all of them use a 8" for bass duties
imo 8" is very small and give poor bass relatively.
imo, real bass foundation starts at 12'', arguably at 15"
Maybe once again, as this can not be said often enough:
If you want to design speakers on your own, you have to measure.
Not "maybe" or "maybe later", but an absolute first, before even thinking about taking a speaker in your hand.
Read and learn to measure. In that process you will learn a lot of practical things.
Indeed there is hardly any science where theoriy is that practical as in loudspeaker design.
Looking at commercial speakers and listening to some mediocre examples, like at your friends houses, will not help you becoming a speaker designer. You may be able to talk a lot of HIFI babble going that way, but never finish a well sounding speaker.
Then, you need a perfect signal source and a good amplifier. You never mentioned what gear you have?
You can never recover what the source and amp take away from the original.
If you want to design speakers on your own, you have to measure.
Not "maybe" or "maybe later", but an absolute first, before even thinking about taking a speaker in your hand.
Read and learn to measure. In that process you will learn a lot of practical things.
Indeed there is hardly any science where theoriy is that practical as in loudspeaker design.
Looking at commercial speakers and listening to some mediocre examples, like at your friends houses, will not help you becoming a speaker designer. You may be able to talk a lot of HIFI babble going that way, but never finish a well sounding speaker.
Then, you need a perfect signal source and a good amplifier. You never mentioned what gear you have?
You can never recover what the source and amp take away from the original.
No, not necessarilly, learning how to simulate loudspeaker design, is the first logical step in the right direction. Does anyone remember our good buddy, a forum member DDF who created "Simple Loudspeaker Design"? Should one google "dave dal farra simple loudspeaker design", first hit takes you to Charlie's pages at sought target. ⛳
humm having had beyma 15"with 600w amp ,this days I'm really happy with scan 15w rev. 5.5"with 5w by NP go figure
is the quality not the size with room not big ,tipical eu 18w scanspeak is perfect
good speaker the troels 861 I prefered the discovery version but only personal opinion
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You can make a good speaker by measuring, without a prior simulation, but not the other way round.
Any data you need to simulate comes from measuring. You overlooked that...
If I'm wrong, correct me.
PS I did my first simulation program in 1979, on a programable calculator, a PC1500. So I could simulate prior to measuring, but TS parameters where unreliable at that time, often pure fantasy.
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great.... we use this book pen and calculator ,then in 1989 on i286 with 4mb ram 🙂
Attachments
OMG 😱 I still have the copies of that italian magazine (Suono) containing the articles of Viappiani's book somewhere in my garage. I remember I could calculate all the box alignments by hand.
you listened to the beyma system with what mid and tweeter?
ive had speaker with 12" woofers that i hated the sound of. notably Genelec 1037B and JBL lsr6332 with subs. I hated both of these system.
simply using a big woofer doesnt mean the speaker will sound good.
why use 600W with a hi-effiency woofer?