TBH, Jing, you are presenting a very difficult scenario here. You are drip-feeding us with your apparently unsatisfactory speakers. I don't know what is wrong with them, having never heard them.
I have heard some goodish MTM designs:
This Scanspeak/Ribbon one works at most levels, IMO. It certainly sounded good to me, albeit the very bottom end was taken care of by 15" wall built sub-woofers.
The 15R shunt on the tweeter must be a good thing, and mainly affects impedance.
Mixing woofers is a thoroughly bad idea IMO. But you might get it to work. All experimental.
Sorry steve, i am not trying to confuse people but just asking what the best solution is here assuming all drivers are sourced already.TBH, Jing, you are presenting a very difficult scenario here. You are drip-feeding us with your apparently unsatisfactory speakers. I don't know what is wrong with them, having never heard them.
I have heard some goodish MTM designs:
This Scanspeak/Ribbon one works at most levels, IMO. It certainly sounded good to me, albeit the very bottom end was taken care of by 15" wall built sub-woofers.
The 15R shunt on the tweeter must be a good thing, and mainly affects impedance.
Mixing woofers is a thoroughly bad idea IMO. But you might get it to work. All experimental.
Your reply is very helpful. I dont believe it a good idea to mix different woofers in tmm either.
I might stick to the orginal plan, trying to make a good 2 way with the tweeter and f6, then add the .5 leg using at170g0.
I will try one of your ideas kindly presented here the only hindering thing is in Australia, parts are not cheap and easy to buy.
Cheers
Jing
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AllenB probably knows a few good suppliers, but really some of these are about what I pay in the UK:
Soundlabs Group: Air Core Coils 1mm
Loudspeaker Components Crossovers & Components
No need for anything exotic. I use also fairly ordinary speaker cables and 10W wirewounds. And always adjust to nearest common value.
Simplest is always best with audio projects. You want to avoid too much woodwork. We've looked at all the filters here. I thought the series filter, either MTM or 2.5 configured, was better than your current one.
But the 6kHz notch idea is very doable too:
None of these values are written in stone. Model it yourself.
Soundlabs Group: Air Core Coils 1mm
Loudspeaker Components Crossovers & Components
No need for anything exotic. I use also fairly ordinary speaker cables and 10W wirewounds. And always adjust to nearest common value.
Simplest is always best with audio projects. You want to avoid too much woodwork. We've looked at all the filters here. I thought the series filter, either MTM or 2.5 configured, was better than your current one.
But the 6kHz notch idea is very doable too:
None of these values are written in stone. Model it yourself.
I've found it cheaper to have 5-10kg packages posted from the US. It's not exactly fair. Still, if you can settle on a design style (and I don't expect you to for some time yet (it has taken some people decades)), you'll only need to buy drivers rarely because your building style may settle into iterations of the same fundamental thing.
Thanks steve, i will try both. As to the parts, PE in the us still is the best and fastest.AllenB probably knows a few good suppliers, but really some of these are about what I pay in the UK:
Soundlabs Group: Air Core Coils 1mm
Loudspeaker Components Crossovers & Components
No need for anything exotic. I use also fairly ordinary speaker cables and 10W wirewounds. And always adjust to nearest common value.
Simplest is always best with audio projects. You want to avoid too much woodwork. We've looked at all the filters here. I thought the series filter, either MTM or 2.5 configured, was better than your current one.
But the 6kHz notch idea is very doable too:
None of these values are written in stone. Model it yourself.
Perhaps i should order a bunch of assorted caps and resistor from them, and wind some inductors of my own. [emoji1]
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Not sure why, it is a lot of cheaper buy stuff from the us and uk than in Australia, dhl express fee inclusive.
Literally everything.
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Australians are accustomed to high wages. Retailers have had the tyranny of distance with sparse population to charge what they want, but can only make low volume purchases from suppliers (sometimes by international mail).
I've made mail order purchases direct from WA and Vic and it was borderline extortion.
I've made mail order purchases direct from WA and Vic and it was borderline extortion.
Pretty easy with them. Place order and pay by credit card.
No duty under $1000, particularily good for electronic parts.
Some electronic appliances cant be shipped to Australia to protect local distributors but parts are fine.
Also you have other service providers to ship stuff for you from Amazon uk and us, a modern gadget, nad d 3020 for instance, is more than 1000 aud here, but only 400usd.
Allen is right, Australia is vast land with scarce population, fees are particularly expensive, no matter what.
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Traditionally we used to make almost everything for ourselves. Look at machinery for example from the earlier part of last century, it's usually labelled as locally manufactured, or occasionally imported from the old dart (Britain).
Steve, we've introduced a tax (GST) in recent decades which I think is similar to your VAT, except the process is completely transparent to consumers so it's difficult to know just whether (or how many times) it has been applied.
Steve, we've introduced a tax (GST) in recent decades which I think is similar to your VAT, except the process is completely transparent to consumers so it's difficult to know just whether (or how many times) it has been applied.
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