You buy the bigger amp that allows you to head bang.
When you play easy listening stuff, or its your mother that is listening, put a large power resistor in series with your speaker leads. Adjust the resistor(s) to the correct value by repeating the test until you get it right.
An easier but less optimal solution would be to turn your volume control anti-clockwise until is sounds right. You don't need the resistor or multimeters for this less accurate method.
Last edited:
I find that at regular listening levels I don't really push more than 8V RMS into my speakers from my F4.
On occasion I will push to the full 18V when I'm really rockin' but that's only when I'm the only person home.
My Speakers are only 81db efficient.
Pretty soon I will be building a balanced output for my Aikido to drive a Dual Parallel F4 to 100W.
The conversion will take some time but I should be able to convert my Aikido to balanced output pretty easily.
On occasion I will push to the full 18V when I'm really rockin' but that's only when I'm the only person home.
My Speakers are only 81db efficient.
Pretty soon I will be building a balanced output for my Aikido to drive a Dual Parallel F4 to 100W.
The conversion will take some time but I should be able to convert my Aikido to balanced output pretty easily.
Amusing how you failed to grasp what I was hinting at.
1) How can you make an accurate comparison and compare when everyone's tastes are different?
2) What if you want to save energy and not waste it by having a couple of monoblocks powered on all the time, when you can tailor what you actually need?
Won't even get in to the mother jokes.......
1) How can you make an accurate comparison and compare when everyone's tastes are different?
2) What if you want to save energy and not waste it by having a couple of monoblocks powered on all the time, when you can tailor what you actually need?
Won't even get in to the mother jokes.......
Hi, I tested it again. First set the volume to its highest level by a CD player then test the frequency respectively 220 and 120Hz. That is what I found, from 220Hz I got 16v and from 120Hz = 13-14v
I think I tested properly but now waiting for your opinion. Can you tell me one thing that how can I bring out the watt/rms from this volt I mean whats the formula and how to calculate this.
Thanks,
Paul
I think I tested properly but now waiting for your opinion. Can you tell me one thing that how can I bring out the watt/rms from this volt I mean whats the formula and how to calculate this.
Thanks,
Paul
OK, if you used a CD player and the test files then the results are accurate. So your measured 16 volts translates to 64 volts peak which is 45 volts rms.
That means that you need at least a 260wrms/8ohm capable amplifier. So the STK modules you mentioned are way below what is needed.
I don't think they are......
It works because the test is personal to you, with your choice of music and your listening levels... and you also have to differentiate between out and out "power" and the flip side of that, the "voltage" needed to produce that power.
A well recorded Beethoven piano sonata played at realistic level might need more "power" or more accurately "voltage", to deliver that momentary transient when the player slams down on the final chords than a piece of "nominally loud" but non dynamic grungey stuff (or whatever its called
)Do you see... the Beethoven's average level might be low but that transient demands say 50 volts peak. The only way to get that is with an amp of nominally 35 volts rms output, in other words a 150wrms/8 ohm amp.
The other music genre might only be seeing 20 volt peaks amidst an average of say 8 or 10 volts. Here a 25 wrms/8 ohm amp is all that is needed.
Its your choice of level and material that makes the test work.
Thanks for this valuable information. So I think I have to move to another IC or Transistor type for getting this wattage. Have to say goodbye to the STK. But I'm still getting the best/quality and strong (don't know the max db of this amp) sound from it. So if I replace the circuit with a stronger one am I going to get more extra db from it? I mean is this necessary to change the STK what I have right now? Please tell me that what is the highest db of STK4231v with the peak volt +/-53? Oh.. extremely sorry to say that I shared a wrong information about the transformer. I measured it today and got the rms volt of the transformer is 40 and I guess the peak will be +/-53v. (never measured it before just saw the label on it then bought it)
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
Your voltage readings show that you are right up to the limit of what is available from your power supply. That is the limiting factor (one of them) and puts an absolute limit on the voltage you can put across the load. Your 40-0-40 transformer will give around -/+56 volts DC and that is the most voltage available to the load, and in practice it will be a bit less due to losses.
If you really need it louder than this then you need to be looking at "bridged amplifiers" where the load is connected between two opposite "polarities" of output. As one goes up the other goes down. STK's would not be suitable, you are looking at discrete heavy duty output stages for this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged_and_paralleled_amplifiers
If you really need it louder than this then you need to be looking at "bridged amplifiers" where the load is connected between two opposite "polarities" of output. As one goes up the other goes down. STK's would not be suitable, you are looking at discrete heavy duty output stages for this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged_and_paralleled_amplifiers
Mooly,
informative as normal, and thankyou for clarifying.
Funnily enough I am listening to some Beethoven and Carl Orff as we speak and glancing at the DMM, I retract what I said earlier as I didn't even think of taking into account different genres of music and how it would translate. My bad.
Will be interesting to see just how much power I really need when I have an hour spare next week and bring my logging meter home and have a random 1 hour of music.
Obviously I will be adjusting the volume for different genres, but I see now just how much more power is needed for something like o'fortuna when compared to something mainstream
informative as normal, and thankyou for clarifying.
Funnily enough I am listening to some Beethoven and Carl Orff as we speak and glancing at the DMM, I retract what I said earlier as I didn't even think of taking into account different genres of music and how it would translate. My bad.
Will be interesting to see just how much power I really need when I have an hour spare next week and bring my logging meter home and have a random 1 hour of music.
Obviously I will be adjusting the volume for different genres, but I see now just how much more power is needed for something like o'fortuna when compared to something mainstream
Mooly,
informative as normal, and thankyou for clarifying.
Funnily enough I am listening to some Beethoven and Carl Orff as we speak and glancing at the DMM, I retract what I said earlier as I didn't even think of taking into account different genres of music and how it would translate. My bad.
Will be interesting to see just how much power I really need when I have an hour spare next week and bring my logging meter home and have a random 1 hour of music.
Obviously I will be adjusting the volume for different genres, but I see now just how much more power is needed for something like o'fortuna when compared to something mainstream
Ok get the test now, stupidity on my side.
Having just listened to queens of the stone age no one knows, vantages well below 1.7v but when I switch to something like Brian Eno an Ending, massive difference up at 6v and not pushing it due to the time in UK. Will be interested to see just how much headroom I need, when the other half is out and daytime etc.
Most peak responding meters/measurements need a minimum duration of the transient to give a reading.
This required duration is generally longer than many of the transients in music.
When the measurement system requires a duration that is longer than the transient being monitored, the peak reading measurement significantly under reads.
I suspect that is part of the reason why I disagree with a high proportion of Members when determining the peak transient capability of amplifiers for driving treble only channels.
Paul: Thanks for doing the test. Mooly is right, you need an amp rated at about 250W RMS to play clean at the levels you set. Your 16V reading on the test tones shows that.
Mark: Glad you worked thru it! It can take some time to wrap your head around it, but it does work. The weak point is picking the right music. Tracks that you might think are dynamic often are not. You were on the right track with Carl Orff. 
Andrew: Yes, hard to measure with a meter. That's one advantage to this test, once your top level is set, you measure a steady state signal.
Mark: Glad you worked thru it!
It can take some time to wrap your head around it, but it does work. The weak point is picking the right music. Tracks that you might think are dynamic often are not. You were on the right track with Carl Orff. Andrew: Yes, hard to measure with a meter. That's one advantage to this test, once your top level is set, you measure a steady state signal.
Thanks
Certainly is an eye opener, I disregarded source material before being naive.
Going on a tangent here, but how do manufactures make there claims and how can you reproduce this test, eg, see if your amp is still with in spec.
Example, rated power output at stereo mode 8r, 1kHz, THD 0.7% equals 105w +105w.
I understand 8r load with a 1kHz input signal, but how do you determine output level from this or am I missing something again
Makes perfect sense, I suppose it helps if you have a good meter so you don't undershoot.
Certainly is an eye opener, I disregarded source material before being naive.
Going on a tangent here, but how do manufactures make there claims and how can you reproduce this test, eg, see if your amp is still with in spec.
Example, rated power output at stereo mode 8r, 1kHz, THD 0.7% equals 105w +105w.
I understand 8r load with a 1kHz input signal, but how do you determine output level from this or am I missing something again
To quote myself again so I don't look too stupid.
In work if I am checking performance/efficiency I have a power meter, Electronic DC load, and a normal DC load hooked upto a DMM from this I can check or do the number crunching and know if something is within designed parameters. But they are fixed outputs.
How do you do this for a variable output? (I still class myself as learning btw, even though I have the certs and have worked in various fields for around 8 years, knowledge is power).
Below is the setup I use at work and can determine from this if output is correct.
