Hans,
Can you clarify what you mean? There really is no "foam tape" in Pettals. Do you mean SSSS?
Eric
Eric, car amp gear have integrated crossovers.
For dsp consider your computer at task, install Apo EQ and Peace for free (if you have a multichannel sound card you are good to go).
If don´t, consider in second hand something like a alpine 3672 or a behringer dcx.
For experiences i use the fosi audio 30D Pro amps, 2.1 channels with intergrated crossover for the lows/sub.
Good auditions
Hi Eric,
Yes that Wondom DSP comes set up with 2 channels HPF 3000-20000 and 2 channels LPF<3000 There is also a HPF for the low range 10-300HZ. These can all be changed via the software (Sigmastudio) as well as adding delays and PEQ etc pretty sure its the same chip most of the cheap DSP's use. To program you need to buy another programer board (ICP5 I think around $15 from memory) that goes between the computer and the DSP, it's a bit of a learning curve and there are probably easier solutions.
Yes that Wondom DSP comes set up with 2 channels HPF 3000-20000 and 2 channels LPF<3000 There is also a HPF for the low range 10-300HZ. These can all be changed via the software (Sigmastudio) as well as adding delays and PEQ etc pretty sure its the same chip most of the cheap DSP's use. To program you need to buy another programer board (ICP5 I think around $15 from memory) that goes between the computer and the DSP, it's a bit of a learning curve and there are probably easier solutions.
The t-racks is much more versatile then the Rolls, not only a x-over (and with a broader range of x-over point), but also a (good) eq and delay (and compressor/ limiter). I think it would be the best starting point, because of the no-thrills nature, tailored to the task you want to use it for.
The Wondom DSP is probably a bit more complex, because of the knobs you can assign and the programmer card and cable you need. Also the Wondom software looks a bit messy from the screenshot.
The t-racks mini dsp amp version would imo be most practical, but only works on 230-250V (or so the website mentions).
Cheers
Yes, SSSS. I understood that to be a kind of compliant surround. The other two options are Free and Clamped.
Hello Eric.
This is the XO I have use for many years now.
It is so flexible, with every gadget you could think of.
I mainly use this for XO and digital delay but it does have eq also if needed.
There is an LE version that does away with the digital input for about £166 in the UK, but I'm not sure of the sound quality of this unit , as I only use the digital input.
I just use cheap digital amps, as the quality is so good now days.
i did use a car audio XO at one time, which is in a cupboard somewhere.
Steve.
https://www.thomann.co.uk/behringer...fU86a7HtfgMXh-oWrBr_un6JWdjQLdtUaAi6JEALw_wcB
This is the XO I have use for many years now.
It is so flexible, with every gadget you could think of.
I mainly use this for XO and digital delay but it does have eq also if needed.
There is an LE version that does away with the digital input for about £166 in the UK, but I'm not sure of the sound quality of this unit , as I only use the digital input.
I just use cheap digital amps, as the quality is so good now days.
i did use a car audio XO at one time, which is in a cupboard somewhere.
Steve.
https://www.thomann.co.uk/behringer...fU86a7HtfgMXh-oWrBr_un6JWdjQLdtUaAi6JEALw_wcB
Hello Eric,
To open to an other possible design the one listed before:
My intentions for a future that I hope not to far is to have my audio system organized from a Raspberry pi working with Moode so something based on a PC. No need of a Raspberry in a first time. You can use a laptop as source with Camilla DSP as crossover and equalizer software. Camilla DSP is a freeware with a thread in diyAudio. Connect a cheap USB 5.1 or 7.1 DAC to it and then some small class D amps. Those DACs are all based on the chip CM6206; the limitation is they can't do better than 48kHz/16bit. I have been using for some years now amps based on the TPA3116.
The recommendation we can read on posts about such a topic is when the solution is with usb DAC to have all the channels in the same DAC, so a multi channel DAC, to keep the right timing between the channels.
If you go for cheap amp delivered as a small PCB, their main limitations come from the input capacitors which are sometimes too low in value and the gain which is to high leading to noise in the HF speakers. With a good magnifier and a small iron, it is possible generally to tweak such amps. You can hear the noise of such amps if the efficiency of loudspeaker is good; in DML it might be a problem with EPS.
I think a good recommendation for the (very?) cheap amp is also to avoid the one able of a bluetooth input in order to have the signal going if possible directly to the amp input without extra input stages.
An other recommendation might be to keep between the DAC and the amps some potentiometers as volume ("à l'ancienne" = like in the old times). It is not easy for a multiway system and probably a source of cost but we can read in the posts that PC based audio can run full volume if not well programmed or by some mystery of the operating system. As I haven't experimented, I have no specific recommendation here.
Christian
Hans, Yes that basically correct. Simple, or SSSS represents a case where the surround acts like a hinge joint, where the panel edge can't move in or out, but can rotate. A foam surround where the foam is sandwiched between the frame and panel all around is closer to that by far than it is to either Free or Clamped. The one thing that's a little unique though to the foam surround is that it typically adds more damping than either a Free or Clamped. mounting. So in Pettals you may need to use a lower Q than you would for that case than for the same panel in the Free of Clamped case. Tricky part is guessing just how much lower Q should be.
I don't think I ever noticed that the clamped response looked any flatter than the simple. If you can show your comparison (in the Pettals thread) I'd be interested to see that. If it's too much trouble, no worries.
Eric
Steve,
Thanks, that Beringer looks like a really good option. Maybe a little more than I wanted to spend just now, but my birthday is coming up, then Fathers Day, so maybe I'll splurge. 🙂
One thing I'm not clear on is if I can attach my powered sub (just a Polk PSW10) to the low end output(s)? The sub has a "line level" input so I presume that it where I would connect the crossover into the sub, right? Is there a way to set up the output from the crossover so that the one output contains both the left and right channels, since it's only a single sub?
Any particular amps you like?
Eric
my S24c has a built-in volume control pot but it only is a 2 channel DAC.
Camilladsp's GUI has a volume control slider but I don't know if it can control more than 2 outputs (but that could well depend on what config file it's using). It also is possible to use ALSA faders to control CDSP's gain. Finally, a custom app (most likely written in Python) could use CDSP's websocket to control its operating parameters.
Christian,
That's probably also a great option, but sounds complicated for me. Especially since my laptop is old and unreliable. Wifi doesn't work, battery doesn't work, keys stick, and so on. I do need a new one, but....
Eric
The Thomann seems good if you want a cheap all-in one unit.
If you spend a bit more and get separate units, DBMark have DSP units in a simular price range to brands like Behringer and DBX, but better sound quality. Then get some chinese digital amps. I have a couple of Ayima (A08 for the tops and A07 Max bridged for sub) in the studio that I'm very happy with. Just make sure you get them with a good PSU, many are sold with underpowered cheap PSUs since a good PSU will be a big part of the cost.
If you spend a bit more and get separate units, DBMark have DSP units in a simular price range to brands like Behringer and DBX, but better sound quality. Then get some chinese digital amps. I have a couple of Ayima (A08 for the tops and A07 Max bridged for sub) in the studio that I'm very happy with. Just make sure you get them with a good PSU, many are sold with underpowered cheap PSUs since a good PSU will be a big part of the cost.
Leob,
Actually both Thomanns (DSP 4x4 mini, and the DSP 4x4 mini Amp) seem good, but I guess you are talking about the one with the amps included? But I think I need a transformer too to get the 230 V required (we use 120 V). Is that an big deal or not?
What's a PSU? Not Penn State University, I assume!
Eric
Actually both Thomanns (DSP 4x4 mini, and the DSP 4x4 mini Amp) seem good, but I guess you are talking about the one with the amps included? But I think I need a transformer too to get the 230 V required (we use 120 V). Is that an big deal or not?
What's a PSU? Not Penn State University, I assume!
Eric
Missed that about the Thomann, seems like a hassle and extra cost. Then I would probably look at separate amps and miniDSP or DBMark if they have switching supply supporting 110v.
PSU=power supply unit. The A08 has a decent internal PSU, and the A07 Max use an external brick. The actual chip for a good sounding 300w amp cost very little, but a decent PSU that can handle that is quite costly, so there are a lot of offers that are very cheap but underpowered.
PSU=power supply unit. The A08 has a decent internal PSU, and the A07 Max use an external brick. The actual chip for a good sounding 300w amp cost very little, but a decent PSU that can handle that is quite costly, so there are a lot of offers that are very cheap but underpowered.
Leob, precisely. That`s why i told Eric to serach for the Fosi Bt30d Pro (Ayima alike) as they are selling it with the 48V 5A Psu, so 3 channels under €100.
Eric you can send de L/R summed signal to the sub.
Good auditions
Eric you can send de L/R summed signal to the sub.
Good auditions
3E audio also has decent digital amplifiers, and they use post output filter feedback with give a better hf response
Eric.
At one point I was thinking of buying a second hand av amp that could be used as a multi channel amp, but as I only needed a few Watts it seemed a bit of overkill.
How many Watts do you think you need, and have you any old amps not being used.
Steve.
At one point I was thinking of buying a second hand av amp that could be used as a multi channel amp, but as I only needed a few Watts it seemed a bit of overkill.
How many Watts do you think you need, and have you any old amps not being used.
Steve.
Eric...I suggest you try placing a smaller exciter near to but inboard of the top corner of a panel to work full range with the main exciter..Pref the diagonally opposite corner of the main exciter. How you wire it depends on your equipment... If they're 4 ohm units try them in series. I found this arrangement to be a 👌surprise
Eucy