Ok, I also have a WaveIO and other adjustable PS, I can try it, but why WaveIO is connected to J3 and external PS? J3 is needed to supply the Fifopi's Input side in fact?
I just checked J3 voltage, 0V. Is it normal if nothing is connected in ?
On the Fifoip, the only led light is X02.
0v is Ov. I am not familiar with BBB, and can not recommend you what to do if something goes wrong. Maybe some others can help.
With the rasberry it’s recommended to use J3 to power it.
Ok, I also have a WaveIO and other adjustable PS, I can try it, but why WaveIO is connected to J3 and external PS? J3 is needed to supply the Fifopi's Input side in fact?
Yes, J3 need power. My FifoPi have no problem with 5v, but Doede recommend 4v.
WaveIo’s isolated i2s output need to be powered from another source than from WaveIo’s own 5v input.
Doedes schematic show this clearly, (J3).
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Julien@
If it’s possible, connect wires from pin 2 (5v) and gnd from pin 6 on J7 to your BBB.
Hook up power 5v to J3. Forget WaveIo, I guess you want to use i2s directly from BBB to FifoPi.
Edit: not J7, BUT J1
If it’s possible, connect wires from pin 2 (5v) and gnd from pin 6 on J7 to your BBB.
Hook up power 5v to J3. Forget WaveIo, I guess you want to use i2s directly from BBB to FifoPi.
Edit: not J7, BUT J1
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Obs obs...I mean J1 the connector under the FifoPi. Forget J7. My bad.
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Ok I try to do it tonight, Thank you very much !
Yes, I dont want to use WaveIO, I think it is useless in my case.
Yes, I dont want to use WaveIO, I think it is useless in my case.
After I have been reading up on the BBB-board, it seems this particular device is incapable of playing the 44.1KHz sample-rate families without downsampling to either 32KHz or 48KHz. That is one of the reasons many people uses the Hermes-Cronos-Rhea + Botic Linux driver combination along the Beaglebone. This provides an external 44.1 and 48KHz clock to the BBB (as well as some kind of reclocking).
@Julien
It seems to me that you don't have any external clocks connected to your BBB and might have a problem here. Not good having the FiFiPi provide an excellent clocking scheme if the signal have already been messed with before reaching the reclocker. Maybe someone with more insight on the BBB can chime in here...
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/272053-hermes-bbb-botic-cape-beaglebone-black.html
@Julien
It seems to me that you don't have any external clocks connected to your BBB and might have a problem here. Not good having the FiFiPi provide an excellent clocking scheme if the signal have already been messed with before reaching the reclocker. Maybe someone with more insight on the BBB can chime in here...
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/272053-hermes-bbb-botic-cape-beaglebone-black.html
After I have been reading up on the BBB-board, it seems this particular device is incapable of playing the 44.1KHz sample-rate families without downsampling to either 32KHz or 48KHz. That is one of the reasons many people uses the Hermes-Cronos-Rhea + Botic Linux driver combination along the Beaglebone. This provides an external 44.1 and 48KHz clock to the BBB (as well as some kind of reclocking).
@Julien
It seems to me that you don't have any external clocks connected to your BBB and might have a problem here. Not good having the FiFoPi provide an excellent clocking scheme if the signal have already been messed with before reaching the re clocker. Maybe someone with more insight on the BBB can chime in here...
Hermes-BBB/Botic cape for BeagleBone Black
ok, can I ask we stop the BBB discussion at this point? This might go way off (the DDDAC) topic here. thanks 🙂
I am pretty sure there is enough to find on the WEB how to actually implement a BBB for I2S output and on FiFoPi, I think all is said as well. The manual is very clear and my guidance how to use it with the DDDAC has been discussed in several posts.
If any one still need some help, feel free to PM me
"I thought I bought a large chassis but still needed to fiddle around and puzzle to get it all in"
Haha I'm glad that I'm not the only one, had this happen 3 times now, getting better every time, but it's never as much space there as I thought it would 😀
Looking great though 🙂
Greetings oli
Haha I'm glad that I'm not the only one, had this happen 3 times now, getting better every time, but it's never as much space there as I thought it would 😀
Looking great though 🙂
Greetings oli
Thanks Oli for the flowers 😛
Simon, I buy all my chassis at Modusshop in Italy, so my Rack looks consistent….
this one is the largest I could get in the series. I always buy a baseplate (the one with the holes, for easy setup of modules and I buy aluminum top and bottom plates because it looks nice....
here is my order:
Slim Line 03/350 3U 4mm BLACK
Inner baseplate for the Slim Line 280/350 series
Cover SLIM LINE 350 in aluminium
Fully vented aluminium cover for Slim Line 350 series
Precision-milled aluminium knob 39.5 mm diameter black anodized (for the volume)
Couple of Riser Panels 150x120 C-RISER-150x120 (The small extension plates)
I design the fron and back with the "Frontplatten" Software from Schaeffer in Berlin
Simon, I buy all my chassis at Modusshop in Italy, so my Rack looks consistent….
this one is the largest I could get in the series. I always buy a baseplate (the one with the holes, for easy setup of modules and I buy aluminum top and bottom plates because it looks nice....
here is my order:
Slim Line 03/350 3U 4mm BLACK
Inner baseplate for the Slim Line 280/350 series
Cover SLIM LINE 350 in aluminium
Fully vented aluminium cover for Slim Line 350 series
Precision-milled aluminium knob 39.5 mm diameter black anodized (for the volume)
Couple of Riser Panels 150x120 C-RISER-150x120 (The small extension plates)
I design the fron and back with the "Frontplatten" Software from Schaeffer in Berlin
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Rough layout is ready and the front and back plates are in process. I thought I bought a large chassis but still needed to fiddle around and puzzle to get it all in 🙄
That is why I keep it on a wooden board in a cabinet with doors 😀
It looks pretty crowded. Why is the fifopi not on top of the rpi?
I see a ground wire to the casing of one of the clocks, what is the purpose?
Groeten,
That is why I keep it on a wooden board in a cabinet with doors 😀
It looks pretty crowded. Why is the fifopi not on top of the rpi?
I see a ground wire to the casing of one of the clocks, what is the purpose?
Groeten,
😀 The lead is just flying as nothing is connected yet... picture 2D effect.
As I have two I2S inputs from ropieee and WaveIO, is have them separated and use the little relais board for selecting the one or the other...
😀 The lead is just flying as nothing is connected yet... picture 2D effect.
As I have two I2S inputs from ropieee and WaveIO, is have them separated and use the little relais board for selecting the one or the other...
Ah, ok.
Would it not be more efficient to use 2 fifopo’s in order to keep the i2s lines as clean and short as possible?
Here is my main DDDAC and the main Hifi room 😀
Nice setup. I really like the floating shelves that match the racks
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Line Level
- A NOS 192/24 DAC with the PCM1794 (and WaveIO USB input)