A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing

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#161
ShinOBIWAN said:


Hi

Most people who will attempt this won't be using proffessional spray equipment, infact most won't even be using a cheap compressor and gun. What they'll use instead is cans and every can *will* give you orange peel no matter how good you are.
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Very nice work Shin, just wondering what brand of paint in cans do you use specifically? Wondering about primer, color coat, and clear coat? Did you cover the painting in another thread, or ...?

TIA,
Pete B.
 
#162
What do you guys recommend for the health aspect of spraying?

Ant, when you spray outside do you also use a mask with a painting filter?

Apparently 2 pack needs an oxygen system (mask + tank), so I think I'll stay away from that.

Recently I was cleaning out a brush with paint stripper. It says stay in a well ventilated area, and taking it into a small outdoor toilet (no idea why I did that) gave meaning to the words "well ventilated!" I got a whiff and that stuff is NASTY! I ran out of the room!
 
#163
This half masks work great and don't cost an arm and a leg.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtNXTyLVs6EV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--

Cartridges are replaceable and usually good for 20 hours or so.

http://www.gemplers.com/product/10865/3M-Organic-Vapor-Cartridges-pair

this is a standard cartridge used in a spray booth. Note: (except paints containing isocyanates)

2k needs air fed respirator, consisting of a face mask, air hose, breathable air grade air compressor.
Set up usually cost $1200 new. Pain in the *** to work with.


Paint stripper is usually Methylene Chloride based. All though nasty smelling and skin burning it's actually not quite as bad as a cancerogen as lots of other things.
 
#165
PB2 said:



Very nice work Shin, just wondering what brand of paint in cans do you use specifically? Wondering about primer, color coat, and clear coat? Did you cover the painting in another thread, or ...?

TIA,
Pete B.
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I certainly understand that using a gun is the right way to go, but I'd like an alternative for small jobs that are not so critical. I've certainly used Rustoleum, Krylon, and Auto touch up products over the years but would like something better than can be wet sanded if necessary. Came across this industrial Krylon product that is acrylic lacquer:
http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/5ball_interiorexterior_paint/

Anyone have experience with it or know of a better product? I expect that this can be wet sanded and polished.

Pete B.
 
#166
Spoke to applications at Krylon, he said that only the industrial version of the 5 ball is acrylic lacquer, the consumer grade is a toluene vinyl. Acrylic lacquer coats chemically bond to one another making multiple coats and touch up easy. Recoat time is 12 minutes.

Wet sanding and polishing is fine - wait 24 to 48 hours. No need to sand between coats.

He suggested their Duplicolor FP101 or FP102 primer.

Should a new thread be started for can spraying?

Pete B.
 
#169
Carl,

I used Krylon Gloss black(451601) cans and the information from this thread. I did not find the suggested materials locally so I used Meguiar's Scratch X.

I did try Turtle Wax Rubbing Compund "Heavy Duty Cleaner" as a start but I found it far to coarse to be useful.
 

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#171
Re: Lines in MDF joints?

mikela said:
Will the solvent based urethane used as a primer prevent the dreaded MDF joints lines in the finished surface?
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The purpose of the solvent based urethane is to seal the MDF against moisture absorption. To best combat the "line" problem, make your joints as tight as possible, apply enough glue (and the correct type) and clamp like crazy. It's nearly impossible to put too much pressure with hand clamps, so no worries about squeezing out all of the glue.
Let the box dry out, preferably in the area where it will be, for a few days before finishing.
 
#172
I've tested my idea of using a 2 part filler over a groove cut with the router over the butt join. I was building a man hole the other day for the ceiling out of MDF and it had butt joins. I haven't painted it yet, but it seems a workable solution. The main challenge is sanding it flat where a high gloss finish is used. For comparison purposes I have one joint with that method, and 3 without.
 
#173
PB2 said:
Spoke to applications at Krylon, he said that only the industrial version of the 5 ball is acrylic lacquer, the consumer grade is a toluene vinyl. Acrylic lacquer coats chemically bond to one another making multiple coats and touch up easy. Recoat time is 12 minutes.

Wet sanding and polishing is fine - wait 24 to 48 hours. No need to sand between coats.

He suggested their Duplicolor FP101 or FP102 primer.

Should a new thread be started for can spraying?

Pete B.
Click to expand...

I know that the right way to do this is to use a compressor, gun and Automotive paint, however I don't paint often and wanted to use cans for a small project.

Going on the advice from Krylon I found an industrial supplier and the exact paint code that was suggested. I had some old speaker stands to paint first and found that this stuff smells really strange, not like acrylic that I remember. So I looked it up again, here's an application chart, the 5 ball (Interior/Exterior) is listed as "Acrylic Lacquerized Enamel" whatever that is ... I also notice that it is listed has medium gloss - when true lacquer is known for high gloss, and it is not compatible with acrylics, lol! "not for use over acrylics":
http://www.kpg-industrial.com/resources/guides/aerosol_application_chart.pdf

I don't believe that this paint is really Acrylic Lacquer.

Pete B.
 
#174
I keep hearing about fibreglass gel coat resin being used in commercial speakers for this sort of problem. I don't have an excuse to try this out for myself but given how its a fairly simply application then I'd be very interested to see if this works.
 
#178
Hey all!
I think my post can fit here, because it consider MDF joints. I am planning to have high gloss finish using piano-polish.
About the case: I was building my speaker in garage in Estonia, it is quite cold over winter and maybe also too much humidity. I was doing all the jobs, spackling also. Now I moved those speakers inside, I am sure it is warmer and dry, plus the temperature is more constant. But then problems began, I have picture also:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


can you see difference in joints. I was using lots of biscuits, over every 15cm, but still the joint is not good.
My question is, what is my opinions? Wait? and the spackle again? Or it is all already waisting my time not getting very good results and flat surfaces?
 
#179
Hi rinx,

This is a major problem, that many of us have been fighting.

The best advice I can give is to keep the (unpainted) MDF boxes in the room where they will eventually be kept for at least a week (to allow them to dry out - or at least equalise their moisture content with their final home).

Then take them outside, and seal/paint them immediately (don't leave them sitting outside for any length of time).

For sealing bare MDF , I've found a urethane based 2-pack paint (IsoLack) to be good, but it's dangerous stuff to spray. Others have found that a clear polyurethane called Varathane works (not available in Europe) or a shellac based sealed by Zinsser called BIN.
 
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