Hi guys,
Since the parts kit for the F4 is still not offered from the store, anyone has a Part Number for the IEC input socket shown on 6L6 build guide?
I subscribed to the notification email. I know that due to the current situation, there will be delays in ordering the parts for the kit.
Thank you!
Since the parts kit for the F4 is still not offered from the store, anyone has a Part Number for the IEC input socket shown on 6L6 build guide?
I subscribed to the notification email. I know that due to the current situation, there will be delays in ordering the parts for the kit.
Thank you!
I don't know if it is the same one but this is what I have used on each of my builds: 693-4304.6090
Looking at everyones great work I realized I never posted any pictures of my F4's.
The copper foil covered devices on the inputs and the black cylinders in series on the outputs are Bybee devices. I also added an XLR for easy balanced bridging or as seen with the shorting jumper paralleling the outputs. The other change from stock is a CLC instead of the usual CRC thus the two chokes mounted to the faceplate.
I agree with others here that the size 4 chassis is barely large enough and not a very easy design to work with. I decided to not even bother with the plastic feet and am using Black Diamond Racing carbon fiber cones instead.
Couldn't be happier with the sound driving Quad electrostatic speakers, but in general just too much heat for the summer months when I substitute a Sympatico amp from Twisted Pear. Different sounds for different seasons.
The copper foil covered devices on the inputs and the black cylinders in series on the outputs are Bybee devices. I also added an XLR for easy balanced bridging or as seen with the shorting jumper paralleling the outputs. The other change from stock is a CLC instead of the usual CRC thus the two chokes mounted to the faceplate.
I agree with others here that the size 4 chassis is barely large enough and not a very easy design to work with. I decided to not even bother with the plastic feet and am using Black Diamond Racing carbon fiber cones instead.
Couldn't be happier with the sound driving Quad electrostatic speakers, but in general just too much heat for the summer months when I substitute a Sympatico amp from Twisted Pear. Different sounds for different seasons.
Hi all, I'm building an outboard power supply for my f4s (& sissySITs). I've got two mono-blocks and each channel will have its own power supply (4 total).
As I've seen on here before, I'll have one power cord running to the power supply chassis and will then put separate fuses to each toroid. Two umbilicals then running out to each monoblock.
My question is, do I also need dual thermistors to the common ground, or can I have a single cl-60 between the dual ps ground wires and chassis?
I only have 3 thermistors and would love to have music back without having to wait until next week for another mouser delivery.
Thanks.
As I've seen on here before, I'll have one power cord running to the power supply chassis and will then put separate fuses to each toroid. Two umbilicals then running out to each monoblock.
My question is, do I also need dual thermistors to the common ground, or can I have a single cl-60 between the dual ps ground wires and chassis?
I only have 3 thermistors and would love to have music back without having to wait until next week for another mouser delivery.
Thanks.
Attachments
point of dual mono/monoblocks is total isolation between channels
you have that only if each channel PSU is having own dedicates NTC/whatever to chassis
of course, if you don't have hum, that you can temporary tie them together with common NTC/whatever or directly to chassis
you have that only if each channel PSU is having own dedicates NTC/whatever to chassis
of course, if you don't have hum, that you can temporary tie them together with common NTC/whatever or directly to chassis
Great. Thanks for outlining both theory and practical considerations. Really appreciate the quick response!
they are some old Powertronics 6.4 mH, 5A, 120Hz inductors I had in the parts bin. DC resistance measures about 0.17 ohm. If I was planning to slam the amps I would step them up to 7A or so but I'm more about the sound than playing loud especially since the Quads don't do loud, just plenty loud for me.
They're film cap bypasses. Zen Mod often puts them in his builds and I copied him. It's been a long time, but I remember thinking they cleaned up the sound a touch...
Who knows what's having the effect, but I can highly recommend the CLC outboard power supply. I've never heard the stereo sound so beautifully clean. Been collecting information for how to do it for many moons, so thanks to all the people who helped by posting their experiences. Especially ZM & 6L6 for the years of volunteer customer support.
Hymn, I do not get the correlation between how "strong" (A) inductor is and how loud the amp plays ... It is class A, so current is constant, regardless of input signal in (V) Or I am missing something ... 😕 Could you explain please?
Can someone tell me what software is used to produce the FFT plots in second post in this thread?
Hi guys,
Can someone recommend sourcing M3-0.5X6 4.5 MM Hex Male Female Standoff Aluminum that sells not in bulk? I look at several stores already but minimum order is per box (500 count) and I do not need that many.
Better yet, someone bought a box and will sell some? It is for the 4U deluxe chassis housing F4 boards.
Hardware kit from diy store is out of stock. Bracket from Toroid.com is back order. Binding post from Parts Express is in back order. This project is getting better and better. Feels like the longer you wait, the better the outcome 😀
Can someone recommend sourcing M3-0.5X6 4.5 MM Hex Male Female Standoff Aluminum that sells not in bulk? I look at several stores already but minimum order is per box (500 count) and I do not need that many.
Better yet, someone bought a box and will sell some? It is for the 4U deluxe chassis housing F4 boards.
Hardware kit from diy store is out of stock. Bracket from Toroid.com is back order. Binding post from Parts Express is in back order. This project is getting better and better. Feels like the longer you wait, the better the outcome 😀