60ndown,
Just watched your video...
First of all, feed that cat! 😀
Seriously now, the power supply to the amplifier is way to light I'm guessing, can you calculate the power output of it and compare it to the amp? It should be more than the amps rating.
As for thinking about diy yourself instead of just building and building... the only way you might get the feeling you seek while listening is, by building something to YOUR needs, not what others find good.
anyway, keep up the building, great job!
Just watched your video...
First of all, feed that cat! 😀
Seriously now, the power supply to the amplifier is way to light I'm guessing, can you calculate the power output of it and compare it to the amp? It should be more than the amps rating.
As for thinking about diy yourself instead of just building and building... the only way you might get the feeling you seek while listening is, by building something to YOUR needs, not what others find good.
anyway, keep up the building, great job!
Art Welter Designs
Sorry, I don't want to appear to have ignored these - I simply have no experience of them to date.
Regards, Ben
Sorry, I don't want to appear to have ignored these - I simply have no experience of them to date.
Regards, Ben
Thank you.
My needs are the same as others who care about music,
accurate reproduction.
and if i can emphasize the lowest lows by few db, outdoors, when i want to,
ill take that 😀
the cats favorite song,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iz6iENNnf08
the power supply does 3 amps, the amp has 2 x 15 amp fuses 🙂
there is no distortion in real life, its definitely the mic on the video cam overloading.
i can make the sound distort/clip etc by using bass boost or turning up the volume, which i did a couple of times.
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Actually yes, I have a jeep cj with a 3.4l cummins (onan) turbo diesel out of a ups truck (same motor mounts and flywheel as a gm 292 gas), a nv3500 out of a dodge pickup that required an (available) transmission plate made for a chrysler auto for the diesel, a np300 transfer out of a jeep, a toyota 8" rear axle with the electric locker and a 79 wagoneer dana 44 axle with a gm govlock limited slip and 4.1 gears to match the toyota axle, and gm pickup aluminum wheels for 35's tires. (no, this is not a joke, in fact if you find a picture of my T36's on this forum, you'll see the jeep tub in the background)
now... yes... I built a 'car' if you can call a jeep a car.
I also built my house... yes, the entire house. I hired the digging of the basement, the masonry of the brick on the front, and the mudding and taping of the drywall. The rest I did.
I understand my vehicles, I understand my house, and I understand my music.
maybe you also understand that if something works, it works.
a specific driver in a specific box works.
a person doesnt need to
'understand the math'
to build a great sub, there are many excellent designs available.
all that needs to happen is people share the information freely and politely.
a specific driver in a specific box works.
a person doesnt need to
'understand the math'
to build a great sub, there are many excellent designs available.
all that needs to happen is people share the information freely and politely.
I'm being polite, and even tried to help out when you were called a troll in another post.
Here's the problem. I did the math, and bfm subs just didn't make sense... however 'everyone' said they were the best. blah blah blah... In a rare case I took 'everyones' word for it, and trusted the posted spl charts.
I banked on it, and put my reputation on it... and it was bogus... That chart was bogus, and stood for three years. When builders couldn't reproduce the results, it was 'builder error' or you had a leak, or some such bull. THREE YEARS !!!! finally a BFM member fessed up that he did the measurements, INDOORS... wow...
The math said no, everyone said yes.... The reality was the math was right. I'm trying to hopefully get that through to you. (and yes, the stadiumhorn was born out of that incident -- the math is right on that one.)
Attachments
this thread title is
"BFM designs question"
if you had said "bfm designs are not great" here is why (math) id have been interested,
what you actually said was,
"if you dont do math you cant understand music"
thanks for the guidance, when my back is feeling strong ill build your St-horn.
do you know of any other drivers that are available easily on the www that work well in it or do i have to drop the full $212???
http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...ce=&srchCat=582&srchMfg=&srchPromo=&srchAttr=
http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=KAPPALITE3015LF
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You and I are still not communicating....
If I said bfm designs are not great -- that would not be truthful. It would have been h8ful. Some of his designs are not so good, some are good -- like with anything. You started this thread asking about a T30, that is by BFM's own admission a 92db sub @40hz... to me that's just not something worthwhile for PA. I also pointed you to the T48 measurements (independent at the shootout) vs the published T48 charts -- just so you'd start to question things.
I tried to get you to do your own homework (as others have done) I tried by pm to get you to measure your room, measure your sub, and measure your music, and then determine what you really want/need.
All you wanted was a list of subs... well sorry, but there are too many variables in how/where it is to be used, types of music, etc... to just give you a list of subs. Since you are running a WO32 sub, and think you are being impressed by hearing 28hz... well, I think you've already been deceived.
Do your own work, learn how it works, and you'll never be deceived. Asking for a list of subs, well... that doesn't work out so well sometimes.
If I said bfm designs are not great -- that would not be truthful. It would have been h8ful. Some of his designs are not so good, some are good -- like with anything. You started this thread asking about a T30, that is by BFM's own admission a 92db sub @40hz... to me that's just not something worthwhile for PA. I also pointed you to the T48 measurements (independent at the shootout) vs the published T48 charts -- just so you'd start to question things.
I tried to get you to do your own homework (as others have done) I tried by pm to get you to measure your room, measure your sub, and measure your music, and then determine what you really want/need.
All you wanted was a list of subs... well sorry, but there are too many variables in how/where it is to be used, types of music, etc... to just give you a list of subs. Since you are running a WO32 sub, and think you are being impressed by hearing 28hz... well, I think you've already been deceived.
Do your own work, learn how it works, and you'll never be deceived. Asking for a list of subs, well... that doesn't work out so well sometimes.
wow, its like trying to get blood out of a stone, i wish people would stop acting like they are *something special* and help other people readily and easily.
when i see a woman with a flat tire, i dont pull over and tell her to take a course in car maintenance or tire technology.
i help her.
this is from the very first post in this thread,
if you understand string theory is my request so hard to answer?
when i see a woman with a flat tire, i dont pull over and tell her to take a course in car maintenance or tire technology.
i help her.
this is from the very first post in this thread,
if you understand string theory is my request so hard to answer?
I understand small-ish and 30x30x48-ish and under 100lbs don't exactly go together in my world... so yes it is that hard to answer.
and yes, I've built my own telescope, and do understand string theory. I love God's heaven's.
and no... I'm nobody special, especially in light of what I know.
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Why not just build some Labsubs? They get down to 35hz, are loud as hell above there, well vetted, time tested and proven. All the plans are freely available. They blow your size requirement in one dimension and they are a difficult build though.
Labs are not flat in singles. If you build 4 or more they do work - quite well. But for a single box, you're far better off with Jim's design. One lab wasn't impressive at all, and two just kept up with a pair of premium 2x18's (loaded with TBX100s driven with 10kW). Four couldn't be touched for less than 20 grand elsewhere, and 8 is unbelievable. Tapped horns do cheat this a little on the small end of the scale. At 8 cabs, it may be a wash or in favor of front loaders.
Well, at least now I know I can also consult Jbell for 4wheeling, real estate, construction AND subwoofers. I do know enough friends working on string theory though... If only Jbell is my neighbor!
Any small mouth horn like BFM's cabinets or the Lab sub gain low frequency extension in multiples.
Tapped horns (TH) and bass reflex cabinets (BR) low frequency response hardly changes in multiples, other than the usual 6 dB per doubling of cabinets and power one expects with any sub.
A proper (and larger) TH can add about 6 dB sensitivity over a BR.
The OP wants to spend the minimum on speakers, and build a single fairly large cabinet for use below 60 Hz.
A good, large TH is the way to go for that goal.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
and for reading (and understanding) my request.
your answer is EXACTLY what i was looking for.
now,
do you know of a tried and tested small-ish TH design for a 15 or 18" driver, that i can find plans for easily on the www, and can you recommend a good driver ($200 or less) for that design ?
😀
and for reading (and understanding) my request.
your answer is EXACTLY what i was looking for.
now,
do you know of a tried and tested small-ish TH design for a 15 or 18" driver, that i can find plans for easily on the www, and can you recommend a good driver ($200 or less) for that design ?
😀
Have you read the link in post #15 yet?
I have tried and tested that design with drivers over a wide price range, it works well.
You had no problem Kobbling up a Karlson, you should be able to figure out the Keystone 😀.
Just brace it well, use good 3/4 " plywood and the results should be decent.
Art
uggg,
my understanding of a TH is,
if the front and rear wave are not perfectly matched, performance is going to suffer.
a Karlson isnt that fussy (i dont think?)
if im going to build a big TH, id need some reasonably detailed plans.
but ill keep searching through that thread, maybe there are some in there?
or not?
my understanding of a TH is,
if the front and rear wave are not perfectly matched, performance is going to suffer.
a Karlson isnt that fussy (i dont think?)
if im going to build a big TH, id need some reasonably detailed plans.
but ill keep searching through that thread, maybe there are some in there?
or not?
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The Karlson is a ported box with a bit of a bandpass filter in front. You can fuss over it as much as any box.
Tapped horns are less forgiving of misalignment than ported boxes, which is why people use Hornresp.
There is a line drawing of the Keystone in the linked post, but no specific plans. However, all the information to reproduce it are in the posts if you bother to read through them.
I like to think this is still "do it yourself" audio, not spoon fed audio ;^).
If you need more detailed plans, go with one of the many other TH with the size and frequency response you want.
Art
I want to build a single PA sub that weighs 100 pounds or less, goes to 30Hz and the driver costs less than $200. Something along the BFM designs but can actually do it outdoors? That would be a horn which is the most complex build.
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/danley_tapped.pdf
The above link is from the inventor of tapped horns, only a few pages but gives a good idea of how it works.
You could go for the middle ground, it should get you by if you use a set of plans exactly...the exact woofer, the exact measurements and duplicate it. On the positive side, when someone asks how it works...you can dump enough information so they run away screaming in terror. Amazing how many people will drop by so you can "help" them with a project. I hand them books, website links to bring them up to speed so I'll just "help". Most of them never come back...
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/danley_tapped.pdf
The above link is from the inventor of tapped horns, only a few pages but gives a good idea of how it works.
You could go for the middle ground, it should get you by if you use a set of plans exactly...the exact woofer, the exact measurements and duplicate it. On the positive side, when someone asks how it works...you can dump enough information so they run away screaming in terror. Amazing how many people will drop by so you can "help" them with a project. I hand them books, website links to bring them up to speed so I'll just "help". Most of them never come back...
yup, im thinking about just asking someone to do the hornresp calcs for me for a few $$,
and design the box for a few $$ more,
im liking this driver
Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
or 2 of these?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-470
or
http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...ce=&srchCat=835&srchMfg=&srchPromo=&srchAttr=
🙂
and design the box for a few $$ more,
im liking this driver
Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
or 2 of these?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-470
or
http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...ce=&srchCat=835&srchMfg=&srchPromo=&srchAttr=
🙂
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