60ndown's Merged Subwoofer Thread

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Nothing is perfect...
DIY_loudspeaker.jpg
 
All food tastes the same (if you have a zinc deficiency), all women kiss the same (if you're a eunuch), VHS and Beta look the same (to Ray Charles and Stevie Wonder), and all amplifiers sound the same (to the deaf old men at Stereo Review).

WHO?

Tell the deaf/dumb/blind kid to go play pinball.
 
I think sometimes people designs subs just to look good... and there is nothing wrong with that, subs can be art.

Like this:
wo6.jpg



and here's my terrible attempt at reverse engineering a hornresp for this sub using the recommended driver. (actually it's half of the cabinet)
 

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Part of the "problem" may also be that the terms subwoofer and woofer are not clearly defined. Nowadays we are hearing about HT content that is supposed to go well below 10 Hz, while at the same time people are using satellite loudspeaker systems that strain to get down to even 200 Hz. The resultig very wide bandwith necessary for reproduction of the low frequency range-music and phenomena-makes it technically impossible to accomplish with only one technology, let alone one speaker. Let's see how many octaves is this? 5/10 10/20 20/40 40/80 80/160 160/320, well we finally can couple to the "main" speakers. The other end of the "problem" is the immensely wide dynamic range needed for a one-kind-fits-all subwoofer.

Oh, and by the way, there is not a new design every week.

Regards,
 
yes, i can see this ^ being a great reason, a small 8" sub could work well in a small room, but not optimal in a stadium.

even so, if you were doing several small rooms, and several stadiums, wouldn't you use the same subwoofer design for each small room and the same sub for each stadium ?

if it works, it works.

I design for Theater productions / Concert Tours / churches (don't ask) / amusement parks etc.

Each design has its strengths and weakness I use what will be most affective in each space for each sound. These are mostly single use speakers. example some of the subwoofers (removed... sorry) ride at disney only make one sound (over and over and over again) They tend to be single use designs that would not work at all for music.
 
no classical for me,

a 28.2 hz sub is good :D

Okay, so 28Hz is fine when you only care about music (I still think 20Hz is needed or lower since some music goes very low). What is your max Clean peak requirement? What is your listening distance?

You posted before a 8" subwoofer can be just fine....Its only fine for those who think BOSE is a quality sound system ;)

Btw, I own 4 SC-8 velodyne subwoofers. Sure they are 8", sure they do 28Hz but I can not call them remotely good subwoofers. The distortion is off the charts when pushed.

I have a feeling you have never been exposed to the best bass systems. This discussions is like arguing the following.

- Pentium 4 solution is okay for websurfing, etc. Only people who have never been exposed to quad core will think that.

- Its like someone saying a 150Hp car is fine day to day but they have never been in a 500Hp Car.


It comes down to you either care about ultimate performance or you do not. With subs its all about max clean SPL. Some music (non-compressed stuff) can have incredible bass peaks and to not have distortion, you need to have clean displacement (8" requires a horn design to get clean output).

Just use REAL science to figure out what you need. Again, you have to care about performance for any of this to matter.
 
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If you want what i think would be the best design for a specific room. give me specifics (room dimensions / absorptive objects / openings ... everything) and i'll give you what "I" think would work best. I generally use distributed systems fyi.

As a test...how about a sealed 25x15 room fully treated. What is the best design if 25Hz/120dB clean peaks are needed at 18ft??
 
Why is this thread still going?

It's from a guy who won't ever spend his money on drivers amps and plywood, his words. That in essence makes it a troll, doesn't it?

Pretty much :D

Sez Doug:

As a test...how about a sealed 25x15 room fully treated. What is the best design if 25Hz/120dB clean peaks are needed at 18ft??

Sez Baddy:

That's a lotta SPL at 25...

Creative Sound - Product Details

The horn design represents low cost, low power, high output option but its 25 feet long ;)

120dB clean peaks at 18ft is not all that loud actually. That is really <= 85dB listening levels.
 
Why is this thread still going?

It's from a guy who won't ever spend his money on drivers amps and plywood, his words. That in essence makes it a troll, doesn't it?

Sez Doug:

As a test...how about a sealed 25x15 room fully treated. What is the best design if 25Hz/120dB clean peaks are needed at 18ft??

Sez Baddy:

That's a lotta SPL at 25...

Creative Sound - Product Details


I think there is a bit of misunderstanding on what 60ndown actually said:
not me, always was, always will be about the music......

im never going to spend my hard earned money on drivers amps and plywood, and my time building something so i can hear/feel a dinosaur footstep or a 16hz cannon shot,

:)

read carefully guys

I think his point was that he doesn't want 16hz, but likes to listen to m&m (sorry couldn't resist) which has some strong 28hz. His problem is he's using a 5' long horn with a 5.5mm xmax driver trying to play 28hz notes. Even corner loaded that is problematic.

The wo32 needs a smaller rear chamber and a longer horn path to do this. making another trip front to back, all 2"x12" (no taper) will give another 2 feet to get to 7', and the smaller resulting chamber will add a bit of reactance annul, and he'll get closer to what he really wants. Now, is that a 12' path to really play those 28hz notes with authority? no, but it'll be better than having to cross at 60hz 12db/oct to offset the 10db rise from 50hz up to 100hz to make things kinda flat. And with a real corner helping to lengthen the path -- who knows, he might just get what he's looking for.
 

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My 'quick and dirty' Karlson sub.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


it started here

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/189823-projecting-bass-forward-not-omnidirectional.html

i used (4) 6.5" subwoofers from a thrift store purchase (2 pairs of nasty 3 way speakers that have the subwoofer section built into the speaker) $7.50 pair, so for $15 i got 4 *subwoofers* ??

the drivers are kinda lightweight compared t some of the subs ive used :D


but the 4 of them in this box do sound surprizingly good ,

i dont do testing/measurements or spellcheck.

i trust my ears.


id say it gets down to about 35 hz with 'authority' and hints at lower.

havent pushed it too hard *yet* but it easily makes tv/movies exciting !

i have about 4 hours time and $15 in drivers and some scrap plywood into it.

im looking forward to having my EXCELLENT bass player friend come over and see what it really can do


:D

https://picasaweb.google.com/gregmuon/STUPIDHIFITRICKS#5597728348905766834
 
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