Hi Ale.
What is the "function" of R1,R2 on 300 Ohm exactly.
They wasn't present when I build my Ver 1..
I have a few "clicks" from my 4P1L throught my Speakers quite randomly.
I'm going to change my cathode resistor to a non magnetic type..
I'm currently using Vishay-Dale 10W, and in generel I'm very satisfied with
my amp, so I'm no into any "big" update right now 🙂
I thought I will give the Mills MRA-12 a try.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/pdf/pg16prn.pdf
/Thanks Michael.
The purpose of the resistors is to keep the voltage of the screen/suppressor grids slightly below the anode. The value is not critical at all and can be between 100 and 300 ohms. I have omitted them in several builds, without any issues 🙂
If you hear some "dings or dongs" is the natural expansion of the elements during warm up, specially when you run the 4P1L rather hot. I can hear these dings and dongs when I warm up the pre-amplifier and then occasionally now and then, but nothing that disturb me at all.
Now, if it is a click, I'm wondering what have you changed in your setup rather than a capacitor. Are you using a shunt regulator? Have you tested any bad solder, lose connector or even changed the 4P1L? Is the noise perceived on both channels?
Cheers
Ale
The purpose of the resistors is to keep the voltage of the screen/suppressor grids slightly below the anode. The value is not critical at all and can be between 100 and 300 ohms. I have omitted them in several builds, without any issues 🙂
If you hear some "dings or dongs" is the natural expansion of the elements during warm up, specially when you run the 4P1L rather hot. I can hear these dings and dongs when I warm up the pre-amplifier and then occasionally now and then, but nothing that disturb me at all.
Now, if it is a click, I'm wondering what have you changed in your setup rather than a capacitor. Are you using a shunt regulator? Have you tested any bad solder, lose connector or even changed the 4P1L? Is the noise perceived on both channels?
Cheers
Ale
Hi Ale...
The warm up I know the sound nothing to be concerned about...
The Click are quite seldom, and It have been there all the time...
I have changed the Tubes, have +100 of them , so nothing here.
I dont think it's a solder problem, best case with my Clarity MR, it
took me 5 week to have it...
Are you using non magnetic resistor for your cathode ???
/Thanks Michael
I'm using wirewound from Dale, they work nice and sound fantastic.
Do you get the clicks at the same time on both channels?
Do you have a scope? Can you try to see where it is coming from?
Ale
Do you get the clicks at the same time on both channels?
Do you have a scope? Can you try to see where it is coming from?
Ale
Hi Rod...
Thanks for your excellent explanation as usual.
Are you using a "Film Capacitors" for the 47nF, or do you have something
else here ???...
I have some "clicks" in my 4P1L , get worse when i tried the K75-10 pio russian caps in combination with my Vcap- CuFt.
With a Clarity MR and my belowed Vcap it was less frequent.
I'm close to make an order from mouser, so I thought of buying some WIMA MKS4 47nf , and some no magnetic resistor for the cathode.
<cut>
/Michael
Csn should be small physical size (prevents re-radiation) and stacked film. MKT is fine, or MKP. Even cheap Arcotronics R82 series is fine, and Wima MKS certainly OK.
I'm using wirewound from Dale, they work nice and sound fantastic.
Do you get the clicks at the same time on both channels?
Do you have a scope? Can you try to see where it is coming from?
Ale
Hi Ale....
No, The clicks have never been in both channels, and again with and interval
of up to 5 week hard to figure out on my scope...
PS! When I have this "scratch click" I usual take an isolated piece of plastic and
touched the cathode resistor, and It's "gone" for a while 🙂
Where have you bought these Vishay's ????
I'm using the little little brother mouser - RS0108R000FB12
But as I have said before, the sound quality is not my concern, IT LIKE MY
4P1L so much.
/Thanks Michael
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I'm using Vishay-Dale NH type 50W resistors with large heatsink (passive computer CPU heatsink).
http://www.vishay.com/docs/30201/30201.pdf
NH0508R000FC02 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
http://www.vishay.com/docs/30201/30201.pdf
NH0508R000FC02 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
Is this diode MBR1645 ok to use for my Rod Coleman supply....i have 8 pieces ..
MBR1645 - FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR - DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 16A, 45V, TO-220 | Farnell element14 Danmark
MBR1645 - FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR - DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 16A, 45V, TO-220 | Farnell element14 Danmark
Great Rod
what will be a good choice for the hi-volt supply ?
i have bought those....
Sjöström Audio - RFB03 The high current ultra fast rectifier bridge
what will be a good choice for the hi-volt supply ?
i have bought those....
Sjöström Audio - RFB03 The high current ultra fast rectifier bridge
I prefer the snubber across the transformer winding, but you can add that easily.
For preamps, UF4007 or SF4007 will easily suffice.
I just posted a recommended low emissions bridge application circuit, maybe it will help:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...ode-rectifiers-vs-ultra-fast.html#post4017360
For preamps, UF4007 or SF4007 will easily suffice.
I just posted a recommended low emissions bridge application circuit, maybe it will help:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...ode-rectifiers-vs-ultra-fast.html#post4017360
Hi Ale, thanks for the trace.Hi Indra,
I've done my homework at last, and I think we have a real winner here. I'd run it at 8mA if possible, but surely the 4P1L will beat a 26 in this mode 🙂 . . . .

A new improved loctal socket board to reduce microphonic noise in the preamp. Using silicone rubber layer between PCBs and silentblock. Looking forward to implement it soon:
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Hi Ale...
Are these the sockets from JakeBand ???
Are you using them now, or do you have any new favorites ???
/Thanks Michael.
Hi Michael
Yes, I'm using them. These are very well made. However, if you get hold of the NOS Russian ones, they are superb for their cost!
Cheers
Ale
Yes, I'm using them. These are very well made. However, if you get hold of the NOS Russian ones, they are superb for their cost!
Cheers
Ale
..... if you get hold of the NOS Russian ones, they are superb for their cost....
Nice advice thanks Ale.
Cost aside, which loctal sockets do you find are just the best for the 4P1L?
I wonder what the genuine NOS Russian sockets look like? Maybe like this?
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I wonder what the genuine NOS Russian sockets look like? Maybe like this?
Yes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-ceramic-...pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3393a46455
Does someone you know of offer these "new"? Would pay extra to not deal with those wires!
Search of youpay found some.
Ceramic Loctal 8 B8G Sylvania 1938 Socket 12G1L 12P17L 2G27L 2P29L 4P1L | eBay
Ceramic Loctal 8 B8G Sylvania 1938 Socket 12G1L 12P17L 2G27L 2P29L 4P1L | eBay
Search of youpay found some.
Ceramic Loctal 8 B8G Sylvania 1938 Socket 12G1L 12P17L 2G27L 2P29L 4P1L | eBay
THANKS very much.
Have four on the way.
Take care,
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