I already mentioned that I don't NEED to run the full system all out. Once levels are matched, I don't see the problem. I'd rather have less power compression / clipping in the entire system as opposed to everything running all out. These subs should be fine for now.
I chose the round waveguides for a less colored sound on the Comp. drivers. They were cheap enough that if they don't sound the way I want them to, ill swap waveguides.
I've tested the combination at low power and liked what I heard. I will see how it works when all together as a system.
I've tested the combination at low power and liked what I heard. I will see how it works when all together as a system.
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I am planning on running the 8" midrange with the 10" waveguide on top of it. Was planning on angling the pairs in slightly to minimize width. I understand there will be some comp filtering.
I am going to see how it works this way. As I said, if I don't like it ill make some inexpensive changes. That's why this is DIY! Ever-changing systems / endless experimentation.
I also wanted to minimize HF distortion so I'm crossing the comp drivers higher than they need to be, as well as having more than one per side.
I understand that there will be more distortion in the LF region. In fact many techno tracks have distortion within the content
I am going to see how it works this way. As I said, if I don't like it ill make some inexpensive changes. That's why this is DIY! Ever-changing systems / endless experimentation.
I also wanted to minimize HF distortion so I'm crossing the comp drivers higher than they need to be, as well as having more than one per side.
I understand that there will be more distortion in the LF region. In fact many techno tracks have distortion within the content
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Hadda do some drilling on the plates. Couldn't find any "G" sized hole openings, and on one plate (for the midbass) I needed a combination of D hole and G hole for the 8 conductor neutrik connector
With this setup I will run the 8c wire to each subwoofer, link an 8c to the midbass, then a 4c to the midrange/horn. Setup will be foolproof and simple!
With this setup I will run the 8c wire to each subwoofer, link an 8c to the midbass, then a 4c to the midrange/horn. Setup will be foolproof and simple!
I had forgot you were going four way.
If side by side, the pairs should be angled out, with roughly 90 degree waveguides as you have, make the trap angle as tight to the HF drivers as possible.
Angling in "V" style creates terrible comb filtering (not just "some") which can't be EQed out, as it varies with frequency.
An example below, the blue trace is the on axis response of a single 10" with a small tweeter/waveguide, basically within +/- 3 dB with a gradual rolloff from 100 Hz to 15K.
The brown trace is a pair of those speakers with the front panels angled in toward each other at 45 degree to each other (90 degree included angle).
The frequency response now is something like +/- 11 dB, and 15K is down 10 dB, sounding only half as loud as the single.
Move off center just 10 degrees (green trace) and there is a 22 dB variation around 3K, right in the octave where hearing is most critical and sensitive.
The response is even worse further off axis, but you get the point.
Given the four 8" and 4 HF horns, I'd make a pair of 2x8" boxes with a HF horn above the pair of vertically aligned 8", and separate boxes for the other pair of horns.
The separate horns could be stacked on top and rotated inward for center fill if needed. Keeps guest DJs from frying the audience (and HF drivers) if they are pointed at them.
Put "top hats" in the subs, mid bass (oops, there is a handle where they should go) and top cabinets, cut some pipes to various lengths, top speakers go high.
If you ported the 2x8", for small gigs you could leave the 15" behind, and stuff the ports for larger gigs when using it all.
Art
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The 8's are sealed back. So I can just make a relatively flat panel with two 8" cutouts for them.
I can run the tapped horns upright (38" base for the midbass) and strap them together that way. Then two seperate poles on top of the upright (tall way) midbass. Midbass would be up to 71" tall) with the 8's and the HF horns on top of that.
It should be stable enough considering the very light weight of the midbass and upper components. If not I can add stableizers to the subwoofer base.
Stacked in that manner would be About 7.6 feet floor to top. Midrange and HF would be about 6 feet from the ground. Above most people's heads.
I can run the tapped horns upright (38" base for the midbass) and strap them together that way. Then two seperate poles on top of the upright (tall way) midbass. Midbass would be up to 71" tall) with the 8's and the HF horns on top of that.
It should be stable enough considering the very light weight of the midbass and upper components. If not I can add stableizers to the subwoofer base.
Stacked in that manner would be About 7.6 feet floor to top. Midrange and HF would be about 6 feet from the ground. Above most people's heads.
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Dude, side by side mid high placement of wide dispersion stuff just plain sux.
Minimum center to center distance is 10", go off axis and you will hear all sorts of nulls- you can predict with certainty where they will occur
Not so apparent indoors, but outside you can hear the changes easily.
Line 'em up!
Okay ill try it out!
I can maybe use one CD / HF horn per side and then have the two backups. Cross the CD a little higher (3k?) and see if that's acceptable.
I can maybe use one CD / HF horn per side and then have the two backups. Cross the CD a little higher (3k?) and see if that's acceptable.
This is how they will be run. Total stack height around 8.5 feet. Mids and highs above the heads of listeners.
Got the bracket situation figured out. Just four Allen bolts per side, setup will be quick
Front side
Front side
The pair together. It's almost alive! 😀
Got some duratex laid down.
Loving the white duratex!
Got some duratex laid down.
Loving the white duratex!
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Gettin there!
Back side
Back side
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Nice work! Is that an 18Sound Horn? I am thinking of building the subs $325 on another thread but 6 per side and 3 amps for a large scale 4 way system. Great please keep the pics coming!
It's a Dayton 10" waveguide, 18sound nd1070 CD. With a metal adapter.
Nice that would be sweet! And scale nicely too, when you don't need all the umph, just bring two subs. When you want it all, pack the truck!
I would love more subs, in the future If I get a large van I will deff build at east two more. For now this is it though. 🙁
On their sides, mouth to mouth, you would have 45" tall stacks on each side, 76" wide. Output should be pretty killer for the cabinet space occupied....and maybe in a stack that large you'd get some true 30hz output!
Nice that would be sweet! And scale nicely too, when you don't need all the umph, just bring two subs. When you want it all, pack the truck!
I would love more subs, in the future If I get a large van I will deff build at east two more. For now this is it though. 🙁
On their sides, mouth to mouth, you would have 45" tall stacks on each side, 76" wide. Output should be pretty killer for the cabinet space occupied....and maybe in a stack that large you'd get some true 30hz output!
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Mr.Engineer 😉,
With no triangulation, the angle brackets will bend and fail if subjected to wind loads.
Even the weight of the drivers may cause them to sag, vibrations will cause them to "wave".
They need a gusset welded or bolted in at a diagonal to be safe.
Other than that, look good.
Are you going to leave them painted white?
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Yeah I know. The reason I didn't just triangulate the bottom bracket, is because all the stress would then be in the small area of the 1/2" ply where the brackets are bolted. Ill weld a support rod to a point far back on the base of the L bracket and either weld it to the metal adapter in front of the C.D. Or ill bolt it to a point on the upper portion of the wood.
Either way it will be supported to stop the flexing in the brackets. Thanks for the heads up in case I wasn't aware!
Yes I'm going to leave them finished the way they are in the white duratex. I like the look. We will see how much dirt this coating attracts....
Either way it will be supported to stop the flexing in the brackets. Thanks for the heads up in case I wasn't aware!
Yes I'm going to leave them finished the way they are in the white duratex. I like the look. We will see how much dirt this coating attracts....
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My road experience is the black cabinets transfer their paint to the white, and the white to the black.
White actually does not show most dirt as much as black.
I need to have my speakers be as unobtrusive as possible, the only white road speakers I owned I made black spandex covers for.
Then I sold them.
I do have white speakers in my kitchen, they matched the wall till the GF decided to paint the wall yellow..
White actually does not show most dirt as much as black.
I need to have my speakers be as unobtrusive as possible, the only white road speakers I owned I made black spandex covers for.
Then I sold them.
I do have white speakers in my kitchen, they matched the wall till the GF decided to paint the wall yellow..
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