So I decided I may be able to squeeze these in 🙂. now, anyone have any source for the drivers that isnt ebay? Looks like the 6RS140 and 6FE100 are easy enough, maybe even locally at DJ City once they are back in stock, but did I just read that the TF0410MR is archived just as i've decided I can build this and have my printer?!!! waaaahhh I even have a heated chamber and bed, so ABS, ASA or polycarbonate is an option, without worrying about warped prints.
Have you ever tried to print with ABS? It is really temperamental and only likes to stick to itself. For a large print like this I would look at something else.
Nothing this big. most of that will be about the chamber temp I would imagine. I have not read anything about my printer having issue with ABS. I will see what I like more ABS/ACA/PC. it will not be PLA. I would prefer something a bit more UV stable (and stronger).
Also, you might want to take a look at magigoo https://magigoo.myshopify.com/collections/all/
Also, you might want to take a look at magigoo https://magigoo.myshopify.com/collections/all/
It is hard to get it to stick to the bed, that is universal it does not like to stick to anything. The slightest problem can cause the whole thing to separate from the bed, sometimes it happens right away sometimes almost at the end. If you want to use it blue tape and an ABS slurry as bed adhesive seems to be the most reliable way.
yes, because with larger prints, it pulls more at the edges due to contraction when it cools too quickly, so the edges pull up first. enclosed printer and/or heated chamber goes a long way to prevent this. also use bed adhesion designed for ABS, like the magigoo linked above.
that said, i'm not set on it, its just one of the options and a bit cheaper than ACA.
that said, i'm not set on it, its just one of the options and a bit cheaper than ACA.
I may indeed eat my words after printing more ABS with this thing. I do know its known for being more problematic, but that will for the most part be because most hobbiest printers are open frame. I believe it was the heated chamber in the Stratasys patent that set them apart in that area for many years; such a simple addition. That patent has now expired a couple of years ago I believe, so we are starting to see the prices of the printers with it coming down. I didnt buy my printer to take on just this project.
Also, pretty happy about this bit of luck. it fits my build volume perfectly!! JUST! not final print settings, just playing with it at the moment. I use Cura too, but trying to set up a profile for my printer in Prusa. If the estimate of just over a day each is correct, I an live with that. 0.6mm nozzle.
Thanks for this mate. Unfortunately they do not have 4 in stock 🙁 I think I may have to alter the model to allow standard round faceplate and standard 5 hole pattern (or leave the holes out for that driver and just hand drill once assembled, as you cant split 5 in half ...). any suggestions for alternate mids?
Last edited:
Yeah it would, but its worth looking at postage. give me a moment. i'll check and shoot you a PM.
also ... actually you could split 5 in half, but one of the holes would be split in half until glued together. that could work, or close enough if you used extra registration holes/pins around that area.
also ... actually you could split 5 in half, but one of the holes would be split in half until glued together. that could work, or close enough if you used extra registration holes/pins around that area.
Awe crappers. The B&C 4NDF34 has quite favorable fs²/Qe for synergy use.
Don’t forget that Bill updated the design to move the mid-woofers off the co-entrant waveguide (“MEH” is too silly a term for me to use, sorry if this confuses some). This spacing redesign was done to improve the transition from mids to mid-woofers.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-2-of-a-waveguide.307434/page-12#post-5983572
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-2-of-a-waveguide.307434/page-12#post-5983572
Hey thanks. Yes I did see that redesign, but also saw he never built it?
I cant bring myself to use 'MEH' either.
I cant bring myself to use 'MEH' either.
Thanks, looks like i'm covered for the mid now. the woofers are manageable, but now the CD is hard to find (perhaps easier to replace too thankfully, other than distortion?)
I would prefer to leave the woofs on the horn if I can. I have a very minimal workshop for wood (also minimal skills with wood). I had considered printing the entire speaker, or printing most of it, so that would make mounting them to 'walls' easier I suppose.
i'm trying to avoid wood. weve had so much rain this year (4 x floods over summer, when it normally only floods every few years) that a lot of wood is starting to get mouldy.
Well, he built the Small Syns prior where the midwoofers were placed off the waveguide (below it) and it was in private correspondence that he explained his rationale for moving them back off the waveguide for the revised 3D printed design. Either way should be fine but I don’t think anyone has gone the revised route and I’m wondering if it’s just because the revision is buried in the thread.
The “co-entrant horn” is prior art in the unity horn patent and was perfectly descriptive of this category of horns. The “multi-entry horn” rubs me the wrong way as a descriptor because having multiple entries or exits is not the salient point. After all, all horns have multiple entries, one of them just happens to be the wrong way (see “higher order modes”). The 1/4 wavelength constraint is integral to the co-entrant horn to work as a point source and as such I find “co-entrant” as being the better descriptor of unity/synergy designs and horn and waveguides inspired by them.
I think most probably avoid it for the same reasons I am. Bill himself hasnt been motivated by the possible improvement enough to go that route, nor has anyone else. the measures are already very good and it makes the build more difficult and larger again. I could perhaps work on an enclosure for peeps, or a mounting arrangement that includes the ports out the side, in the same part. will see, but given how few printed even the waveguide, there will be even fewer who will print almost the whole enclosure. the fact this design is ready to go, with a file I can essentially just slice and print, without needing to modify and possibly iterate a modification, is very appealing with my current workload.
I bought a fully assembled 3d printer, even though that is not typically my way, because I already wear enough hats and I wanted something that could print what I needed out of the box and I could avoid geeking right out on it until I need/want to. Mission creep is a very real possibility, so I avoided buying a kit. Not really any DIY printers in this bracket anyway. I already have my eye on the Vision Miner 22IDEX next year if this print farm and manufacturing gig takes off.
I bought a fully assembled 3d printer, even though that is not typically my way, because I already wear enough hats and I wanted something that could print what I needed out of the box and I could avoid geeking right out on it until I need/want to. Mission creep is a very real possibility, so I avoided buying a kit. Not really any DIY printers in this bracket anyway. I already have my eye on the Vision Miner 22IDEX next year if this print farm and manufacturing gig takes off.
Your asking for trouble printing the halves like that.
Basically if you get even a slight amount of shrinkage, the two parts wont fit cleanly together.
If possible, I'd consider rotating it 180 degrees so that the part with the seam isn't on the print bed.
A lot will depend on your printer and filament choice.
Basically if you get even a slight amount of shrinkage, the two parts wont fit cleanly together.
If possible, I'd consider rotating it 180 degrees so that the part with the seam isn't on the print bed.
A lot will depend on your printer and filament choice.