Does this aluminium plate have a hole at this point?
This is because the interface would otherwise not be accessible from the outside with the plateamp you have shown here:
There are also pins instead of simple solder joints. Could you say a bit about this?
No, this aluminum plate does not have holes on the bottom of the PCB to access the programming port on the bottom of the PCB.
If you need to install a printed circuit board on the plate you specified, you need to unsolder the pins from the top side of the printed circuit board, clean the holes with a syringe needle, and solder the pins from the back side, the same needs to be done with the LED.
If you know for sure when ordering that you will use the board on such a plate, I can immediately turn the programming port in the direction you need.
Thank you for your reply.
To avoid the fibre optic cable between the speakers in a wireless 2 x 3-way stereo setup, would it be possible to implement BT TWS with the EPS32 board? Of course, both amplifier modules would then have to have an interface board with EPS32 connected.
To avoid the fibre optic cable between the speakers in a wireless 2 x 3-way stereo setup, would it be possible to implement BT TWS with the EPS32 board? Of course, both amplifier modules would then have to have an interface board with EPS32 connected.
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It won't work. These ESP32 modules with Squeezelite-ESP32 firmware do not support BT TWS. Even for multi-room streaming via Wi-Fi, it is best to use an optical cable between the speakers, since synchronization between the first and second ESP32 is not performed by the Squeezelite-ESP32 program.
By the way, I checked the optical connection with the simplest and cheapest plastic optical cable 10 m long, the connection is stable.
And I recommend using cheap cables, since expensive branded cables have a slightly larger plug than cheap ones, which sometimes leads to breakage of the shutter in the optical receiver.
This cable fits very well into the sockets that I used.
The cable wouldn't bother me, but my girlfriend looked at me a little askance.😒
But I think she'll be able to come to terms with such a thin thing. 🙂
The only question that remains is how our cat will deal with it......
But I think she'll be able to come to terms with such a thin thing. 🙂
The only question that remains is how our cat will deal with it......
In this case, if you only need BT TWS and other types of audio input are not relevant, then you can use any BT TWS module available to you that has an I2S output. Just connect a BT TWS module with an I2S output to the DAC board instead of my input board. The I2S input to the ADAU works in slave mode via ASRC, which eliminates the need to synchronize the I2S stream, in other words, the ADAU is able to receive any sound source via the I2S port without a headache. Also on the DAC board there is access to 5V, which can power the BT TWS module if it consumes less than 100 mA.
So you have done another thermal connection from the TAS-chips to the mountingplate than this mounted aluminium plate?
The 3Way DSP board shown in this topic is mounted on an aluminum plate that acts as a heat conductor and makes it easier to install the 3Way DSP on any radiator. If you need to install the 3Way DSP board on the plate I showed in this topic https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...2-amp-3x100w-for-3-way-active-speaker.421239/, then it is necessary to turn the programming port pins and the LED. And yes, the small heat conductor plate is not used in this case because the large plate already acts as a radiator and its area is enough for the ADC to output 100W RMS in 3Way mode without overheating.
The heat conductor themselves from TAS remain the same in both cases. It is just the plate to which the board is attached that changes.
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@uriy-ch --
👏👏👏 Great work!
I've replied to you elsewhere & you know I'm looking for a wireless multi-ch 2 or 3 way DSP/XO/amp device for a pair of speakers.
A Wiim Ultra is likely to be the control center for its streaming and TV/HDMI functions.
Scanning your threads quickly, one hurdle crops up: Signal Delay.
There's mention of using toslink between 2 speakers & compensating for 1.1ms delay.
Does this mean there could be trouble with synchronizing TV/movie sound with motion?
The BT output in the Ultra can only mate with one device at a time, so your optical connection between the 2 speakers seems unavoidable... Tho I would prefer the L & R speakers to only need AC cable connections.
And is there a way to preview the sigma app? I'm spoiled from using the user-friendly miniDSP app for XO/PEQ.
👏👏👏 Great work!
I've replied to you elsewhere & you know I'm looking for a wireless multi-ch 2 or 3 way DSP/XO/amp device for a pair of speakers.
A Wiim Ultra is likely to be the control center for its streaming and TV/HDMI functions.
Scanning your threads quickly, one hurdle crops up: Signal Delay.
There's mention of using toslink between 2 speakers & compensating for 1.1ms delay.
Does this mean there could be trouble with synchronizing TV/movie sound with motion?
The BT output in the Ultra can only mate with one device at a time, so your optical connection between the 2 speakers seems unavoidable... Tho I would prefer the L & R speakers to only need AC cable connections.
And is there a way to preview the sigma app? I'm spoiled from using the user-friendly miniDSP app for XO/PEQ.
Thank you.
Yes. I think it is a very good solution to use Wiim as a control center.
The delay I mentioned is necessary if there is a need to output spdif signal from the DSP core, this must be done if you need to receive sound via I2S and then transmit it to the spdif output to align the acoustic stereo center. If you use Wiim and output sound only via optical spdif, then the delay is not needed, in ADAU1452 itself, spdif transit is simply done without entering the DSP. Therefore, if Wiim outputs spdif without delay to video, then you will not see the separation of sound from video.
In fact, 1 millisecond is not long, you will not be able to notice the difference in sound and video if the sound lags behind the video by 1 ms. But if the left channel lags behind the right channel by 1 ms, then this is heard as a shift in the acoustic center to the side.
You need to install the Sigma Studio 4.7 program on your computer, take the ready-made projects from the first post of this thread, and open them in Sigma Studio. Sigma Studio is a little more complicated than the user-friendly miniDSP app for XO/PEQ, but it allows you to configure ADAU to solve very different problems. The projects from the first post allow you to quickly configure ADAU to solve basic problems without delving into the complexity of Sigma Studio.
Thank you for the quick reply!
Understood re - Sigma Studio.
With the Wiim Ultra, I hope to use its built in BT to transmit the signal to the speakers. Not sure how its SPDIF output comes into play here?
If Wiim Ultra can output video audio to the optical SPDIF output, then it is better to use this output, because using Bluetooth to connect to amplifiers requires the LDAC protocol, which itself uses audio compression, unlike the spdif stream.
But if you really want to use Bluetooth to connect to the speakers, then you need to look for Bluetooth modules with an I2S output that support TWS LDAC and connect this module to my DAC via the I2S input.
Ah. More complexity.
I would love to try your devices, uriy-ch, but I think the complexity of this wireless setup is too much for me to master quickly -- and probably too much for the end users. I think I have to abandon my wireless idea and go to fully passive speakers that need only one paired cable between speaker and amp.
The problem I was trying to solve was a wiring run between the amp and the left speaker, between which there is an often-used closet door on the wall. They will just have to run a longish cable around and over the door frame.
Thanks again. I will try out your devices in another application.
I would love to try your devices, uriy-ch, but I think the complexity of this wireless setup is too much for me to master quickly -- and probably too much for the end users. I think I have to abandon my wireless idea and go to fully passive speakers that need only one paired cable between speaker and amp.
The problem I was trying to solve was a wiring run between the amp and the left speaker, between which there is an often-used closet door on the wall. They will just have to run a longish cable around and over the door frame.
Thanks again. I will try out your devices in another application.
If you want to get the most out of your Wiim Ultra, then using a Bluetooth connection to the speakers is not the best way to get the most out of the Wiim Ultra, it is better and easier to run wires to passive speakers from an amplifier than to make a Bluetooth connection.
1.1 ms delay between video and audio should be absolutely imperceptible. I had a quick look in this and this document. Accordingly, the perceptibility differs depending on whether video is delayed or audio. At least in the latter case, the perceptibility threshold seems not below around 40 ms.
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Coming back to this, I realize the right speaker can be connected with Toslink or SPDIF coax easily. Then, wireless from right to left...
That could work!
But 100W for my bass driver is a bit low while 100W each for mid & treble is overkill. Can this be converted into 200W + 100W + 100W channels? Or 200W + 100W? I'm working on a passive XO for mid/tweeter, so that 2-ch combo would also work.
Woofer: Dayton RSS265HF-8 -- 84.2dB 2.83V/1m. I have used them in ~35L sealed boxes with 300W/ch amp modules. Works great to 250Hz LR4.
That could work!
But 100W for my bass driver is a bit low while 100W each for mid & treble is overkill. Can this be converted into 200W + 100W + 100W channels? Or 200W + 100W? I'm working on a passive XO for mid/tweeter, so that 2-ch combo would also work.
Woofer: Dayton RSS265HF-8 -- 84.2dB 2.83V/1m. I have used them in ~35L sealed boxes with 300W/ch amp modules. Works great to 250Hz LR4.
I see there's a 2x200W module. If my last query for other power/ch variants is troublesome, is there a 2x200W plate amp version?
OTOH, most active 3-way systems benefit from much higher power to the woofer for obvious reasons. A 200W + 100W + 100W module would be far preferable than 3x100W, imo. That could easily be made 4-way with simple passive XO, esp. as EQ is available in your board to massage that transition.
OTOH, most active 3-way systems benefit from much higher power to the woofer for obvious reasons. A 200W + 100W + 100W module would be far preferable than 3x100W, imo. That could easily be made 4-way with simple passive XO, esp. as EQ is available in your board to massage that transition.