Much appreciated, Pyramid.
TBH, I do not view the cost of this solution as too high given in mind the flexibility and performance it provides. After all, the motors we aim to run with this solution are approximately that much (close to $100, and for me possibly double that due to location).
Would it be too much of a stretch to ask you to finish the documentation for the LM3886 solution since you seem to have completed the hard work already?
The only documentation left are the assembly instructions (including level setting) and Mouser Cart.
You already have the level setting instructions, the BOM has all the Mouser parts (I'm not going to create a cart for the board if it is not turned into a project); I assume you can manage the assembly without instructions (ditto)?
Hi Bill, so as I understand from your posts about the MA3, a 50VA transformer with 2 x 12V secondaries connected in series should be adequate. However 2 x 15V secondaries wouldn't hurt, especially if the toroid is rated @ 80VA. I'll just add a heatsink to the 7812 though - call me conservative.
Kevin
Kevin
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15V secondary is too high, you will end up with ~27VDC rails; the caps I spec'd are only rated to 25VDC. Also, the amps will dissipate a lot more heat the higher the supply voltage. I would look at 9V secondaries if you have a large VA rated xfmr.
The motor only needs 12VPP to start and drops to 8VPP. I would've used lower voltage rails than I did, but the LM3886 needs at least 20VDC to operate.
You are correct. Information is all there even if split between a few posts.
Much appreciated.
Please accept my aplogies if this post is out of place, but I'm having some trouble with understanding the background reasoning behind the use of BLDC motors.
I understand that they provide a very accurate speed regulation when driven by a supply like the SG4, but having experimented with more than a few BLDC motors from several suppliers, including EBM Papst, Vexta, Nidec, and others, I have found it impossible to achieve the low noise and vibration I can easily achieve with a 3 phase 'Ausenlaufer' Papst motor. Indeed the only advantages I can see is the ability to not need thansformers, and the lower speed.
What am I doing wrong?, or is there a motor I haven't found yet, that can provide the effectively zero vibration of the Papst?
I understand that they provide a very accurate speed regulation when driven by a supply like the SG4, but having experimented with more than a few BLDC motors from several suppliers, including EBM Papst, Vexta, Nidec, and others, I have found it impossible to achieve the low noise and vibration I can easily achieve with a 3 phase 'Ausenlaufer' Papst motor. Indeed the only advantages I can see is the ability to not need thansformers, and the lower speed.
What am I doing wrong?, or is there a motor I haven't found yet, that can provide the effectively zero vibration of the Papst?
Hi Ralph
I used a larger Anaheim Bldc motor and it is not as smooth as the papst. But in my turntables everything is large and heavy so if the noise is getting through not a real issue here.
The biggest reason I can see is papst is not making the flywheel motors anymore. This is more about something you can get and not be a Hurst motor. The overall quality of the Anaheim motors is excellent and the price is nice. Bill covered the advantages over the Hurst motors. Hope your projects are coming along well.
Tom
I used a larger Anaheim Bldc motor and it is not as smooth as the papst. But in my turntables everything is large and heavy so if the noise is getting through not a real issue here.
The biggest reason I can see is papst is not making the flywheel motors anymore. This is more about something you can get and not be a Hurst motor. The overall quality of the Anaheim motors is excellent and the price is nice. Bill covered the advantages over the Hurst motors. Hope your projects are coming along well.
Tom
I think I've posted this before, but it bears repeating: The 3 phase controller is not a "universal" power supply like the Eagle or the Falcon. Those were for AC synch motors and as long as you didn't exceed the power rating, they would work with almost any 115V AC synch motor.
The 3 phase amps (and by extension, the SG4 when used to drive them) are matched to one of two different motors from Anaheim Automation: BLWR172S-24V-2000 and BLWS231S-24V-2000. They are both 12W motors with more than enough torque to turn any platter. The BLWR series is 8 pole (40Hz @ 600 RPM) and has a 4mm shaft and no mounting flange. The BLWS series is 4 pole (20Hz @ 600 RPM) and has a ¼" shaft and a mounting flange that drops into a Hurst 59 series mount. Both are high quality motors with zero cogging and run virtually silent.
If you use any other motor than these two, you are on your own. I'm not saying it can't be done, and I encourage those with the knowledge and skill to try it, but I'm not about to engineer 50 different solutions for whatever people can find in their parts bins or at a flea market. If other BLDC motors are noisy or difficult to drive, I have no control over that.
Sorry Bill, I didn't mean to denigrate the incredible work you have done to make these projects feasible. I guess this does make a definitive solution straightforward if you've got access to the specific motors.
The 3 phase class D amp project is completed:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/307918-3-phase-class-d-amp-diy-bldc-motor-drive.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/307918-3-phase-class-d-amp-diy-bldc-motor-drive.html
Hi Bill,
Sorry I've taken a while to reply. The caps I have available are 35V ones so I shouldn't have a problem. I have discovered a 2 x12V 50VA toroidal that I can use to test things out. I'll order a motor (or two) from Anaheim for my project. I'll just have to order some v3 uP chips from twystd. I have family in the USA that can send it on to SA for me. Many thanks for all your efforts and wonderful designs. Regards,
Kevin
South Africa
I've been working on a motor pod while I wait for the 3 phase amp boards. Obviously, part of this is fitting the motor properly. It can accept the old Hurst motor as well in order to do comparisons since I have the Falcon/Roadrunner to run it.
I took some pics of the BLWS motor disassembly and Hall sensor removal process and thought I would share them for those interested.
I ended up doing it twice, as after I removed the entire sensor board I realized it left two large open slots on the bottom of the motor which would allow entry of ballast I wanted to fill the pod with.
My solution was to break down the sensor assembly and reinstall its mounting assembly without the sensors, pcb and wiring.
Please be patient, as I am trying to use Google Photos since Photobucket seems impossible to use anymore. I tried to add a Google Photos pic link the other day which didn't seem to work. A moderator somehow grabbed it and got it to work by adding it as an attachment. I'm trying to do the same, but I keep getting errors when I try to copy and paste the links as attachments.
I got the 5/16" black nylon plug to fill the hall wiring hole in the housing at the local hardware store.
Hope this isn't too much with the pics, if so, let me know and I will try and remove them. I'm not very good with editing size and what not.
I took some pics of the BLWS motor disassembly and Hall sensor removal process and thought I would share them for those interested.
I ended up doing it twice, as after I removed the entire sensor board I realized it left two large open slots on the bottom of the motor which would allow entry of ballast I wanted to fill the pod with.
My solution was to break down the sensor assembly and reinstall its mounting assembly without the sensors, pcb and wiring.
Please be patient, as I am trying to use Google Photos since Photobucket seems impossible to use anymore. I tried to add a Google Photos pic link the other day which didn't seem to work. A moderator somehow grabbed it and got it to work by adding it as an attachment. I'm trying to do the same, but I keep getting errors when I try to copy and paste the links as attachments.
I got the 5/16" black nylon plug to fill the hall wiring hole in the housing at the local hardware store.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hope this isn't too much with the pics, if so, let me know and I will try and remove them. I'm not very good with editing size and what not.
