Yup. disposbles are better than rechargables I beleive. I use the Eveready Energizers in my pre and they are pretty stable and last long. It is almost an year for my pair of batteries.🙂
@coolzero
Where can I buy the tubes & sockets? Where can buy R-Cores for PSU? how much will be aproximately the total cost?
Thank you
Felipe
Where can I buy the tubes & sockets? Where can buy R-Cores for PSU? how much will be aproximately the total cost?
Thank you
Felipe
my suggestion is Thomas Mayer he can supply a full kit if you want the top....and kit
better if compatibile 26&10y ,filament bias
.
better if compatibile 26&10y ,filament bias
.
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Can be useful for the resistor bias use the light bulbs like on Pass delite amp?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/153832-pass-delite-amp-baf-3.html#post1963927
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/153832-pass-delite-amp-baf-3.html#post1963927
Sorry Felipe, I didn't check the thread for last few days to reply. Anyhow, just replied to the message you sent to me. Hope it helps.
For a 26A-71A linestage are there any suitable 1:1 interstage transformers with the reqired high primary impenance and inductance for the 26?
Hi!
Well, 2 chokes per filament and a high quality power transformer and output transformer don't come cheap 😉
Even myself I only apply filament bias to my cost no object preamps. If budget is a concern I rather use regular cathode bias, instead of a solid state regulated filament supply. But tastes are differnt, this is just my opinion,
Best regards
Thomas
Well, 2 chokes per filament and a high quality power transformer and output transformer don't come cheap 😉
Even myself I only apply filament bias to my cost no object preamps. If budget is a concern I rather use regular cathode bias, instead of a solid state regulated filament supply. But tastes are differnt, this is just my opinion,
Best regards
Thomas
Hi!
If you want the best, use Tango NC20. If on a budget and 1:1.125 is ok, use Lundahl 1660
Best regards
Thomas
If you want the best, use Tango NC20. If on a budget and 1:1.125 is ok, use Lundahl 1660
Best regards
Thomas
HI Thomas nice to see here ,I read all post on AA about filament bias....
Can I ask if for 10y driver stage IT is good 400v/25ma or better lower Vak and up to 30ma ? (I know is not so simple😉
thanks
Can I ask if for 10y driver stage IT is good 400v/25ma or better lower Vak and up to 30ma ? (I know is not so simple😉
thanks
hi!
It depends on the current capability of your driver stage. If you use Tango NC20. Run it at 15-20mA.
If you want to drive say a 845 which needs large grid swing, go to as high b+ as possible
Best regards
Thomas
It depends on the current capability of your driver stage. If you use Tango NC20. Run it at 15-20mA.
If you want to drive say a 845 which needs large grid swing, go to as high b+ as possible
Best regards
Thomas
Hi!
I'd say around 400V B+ and choose a op point which will give the maximum possible voltage swing. Check the plate curves and draw in your op point there. This way your driver stage has the best possible headroom
Best regards
Thomas
I'd say around 400V B+ and choose a op point which will give the maximum possible voltage swing. Check the plate curves and draw in your op point there. This way your driver stage has the best possible headroom
Best regards
Thomas
Just finished a 26 pre. B+ is with LCLC to SSHV to an LL1667 25mA choke at 150V on anode. Cathode resistor is 1.8K bypassed by a 1000uF capacitor.
Thinking to move to battery bias soon.
Heating is with Rod' s regulators.
Also thinking to use a LL1660 wired 4.5:1 for line out. Should I use the 5mA or 10mA version? Right now I have about 6mA. Also would it be better or not to keep the anode chokes?
Thinking to move to battery bias soon.
Heating is with Rod' s regulators.
Also thinking to use a LL1660 wired 4.5:1 for line out. Should I use the 5mA or 10mA version? Right now I have about 6mA. Also would it be better or not to keep the anode chokes?
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