20-30hz tapped horn for studio with ande drivers

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I'm sure bjorno can give you a more precise number.

reminence, Oliver,

Here is an attempt to find out what's needed:

b:)
 

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Hi reminence,

"... how your schematic fits with the plans?"

Just an example, I'm just showing the location of screws in a removable panel. Obviously, this panel could be made removable, so one can fiddle with the stuffing, but-as we discussed earlier-it doesn't have to be.

bjorno,

Nice work, so you are recommending about 1.3 lbs. of fiberfill? This should be a very nice sounding subwoofer.

Regards,
 

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Oh, I thought the s3-s4 panel on the mouth was the removable one. Much easyer access to the drivers there... Also I was thinking of putting the speaker connector near s1 right next to the driver.

Im very much looking forward to hearing this thing. After looking at the specs for my monitors this sub will be able to beet them by 15db :D
 
Hi reminence,

"...I thought the s3-s4 panel on the mouth was the removable one."

Yes, the "...s3-s4 panel on the mouth..." is the panel for driver access.

In Posts #100/#105 I just gave you an example for any removable panel, no, it is not the one for driver access. It would not hurt to make this one removable too, as that would provide you with access to the stuffing/filling. Let me know if you need any other information.

Regards,
 
All the Pics so far are here. https://picasaweb.google.com/jayesmoker/Subwoofer

Built and glued almost everything, just need to put the drivers in and wire them, put the stuffing in and glue the last panel shut. Hopefully I will be finished Tomorrow night.

I opted to put the speaker connection in the mouth, yes it is not normal and could cause a slight sonic disturbance but this way i can sit the sub flush against anything since the studio is small and it will look like its eating the cable! The black dots around the speaker holes are a form of liquid silicone that filled in or seal some very small holes where the screws will go to mount the drivers.

it weighs a ton, even without the drivers yet!
 
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Hi reminence,

Great, you almost have it build.

Make sure that there are no gaps around the dividers, etc. It's really important to maintain the integrity of the air path. You'll be able to tell quickly if your hinged panel is attached solidly.

"...it weighs a ton, even without the drivers yet!" --- In comparison to the Kraken 212 this is light? :)

Regards,
 
In comparison to the Kraken 212 this is light?
True but still it was liftable without the drivers by myself but I doubt at all with them in. Its much different to have the box sitting in front of you than just on plans!

As for the cover/lid I will use two layers of that foam sealant strip and maybe some more liquid rubber as well as some screws. The internal pieces I can mostly see through the driver holes and I may use some foam strips on top of the glue to fill in larger gaps. On the other hand I managed to trace our the panel config from inside so I am going to screw all the internal panels in too, I highly doubt there will be any gaps after that and a lot of glue.
 
I can now, its not glued yet, but plan to tonight.

I cant accurately weigh my stuffing so I hope my fairly dense pillow will suffice. it seams quite the same as a 500gram tub of butter to me....

Also I sorta accidentally skipped on bracing due to being in a bit of a rush but IMHO the wood is so thick and used so much glue, coupled with the fact I doubt this thing will ever get used above 110db I dot think it maters. However I am no expert...

At a guess I would say it weighs 30ish KG without drivers and although bigger than I thought It is still fairly small for the weight.


Also wow, the kraken is big...
 
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