My Faitalpro 2 way build has taken a bite of a turn. I had designed 2 boxes and I wanted to run them in WinISD to see which one would work the best. As you know I have tried many times to download WinISD but had no success. At that point I gave up and resorted to my local contact for the crossovers to see if they could help me with this. Well, they can sure help from building the crossovers, to designing the boxes to running all measurement once I built the speakers. This was the type of help that I was after, obviously this comes at the cost but very reasonable. BTW the distributor/dealer that I am referring to is Solen Electronique Inc. | World leading producer of high-end crossover components. They have been extremely helpful, and their staff is very knowledgeable on DIY speaker since they offer some of their own.
The turn in my project is that I will not be using Faitalpro for drivers but rather SEAS since Solen carries them. I will be using the CA22RNY 8 inch woofer with the T35C002 tweeter. Since these drivers are all in house, they will be able to build crossovers using actual T/S parameters rather than the ones listed by the manufacturer.
This project was taken on by a DIY member under the heading..Tired2Way build..and the OP was very happy with the result but I haven’t read any comments referring to using them with a tube amp.
So, my question to DIYer’s is; has anyone used the CA22RNY with a tube amp? Is the 91db sensitivity enough for my 6 watt EL84 in a 57L enclosure?
The turn in my project is that I will not be using Faitalpro for drivers but rather SEAS since Solen carries them. I will be using the CA22RNY 8 inch woofer with the T35C002 tweeter. Since these drivers are all in house, they will be able to build crossovers using actual T/S parameters rather than the ones listed by the manufacturer.
This project was taken on by a DIY member under the heading..Tired2Way build..and the OP was very happy with the result but I haven’t read any comments referring to using them with a tube amp.
So, my question to DIYer’s is; has anyone used the CA22RNY with a tube amp? Is the 91db sensitivity enough for my 6 watt EL84 in a 57L enclosure?
No, you will never get 91db from that drive7 in a 57 litre enclosure,
more like 86-87 and 6 watts will only just get it moving.
I feel you have gone incorrect route all together!
Good luck
more like 86-87 and 6 watts will only just get it moving.
I feel you have gone incorrect route all together!
Good luck
I’m surprised to see this as well.
I asked in a very early post if this project had to be with Faital drivers and the answer was yes (not sure why though, something about Faital have the best reviews?). I suggested looking at cheaper Eminemce to meet your requirements.
What I see now is that change the premise of the project. It’s no longer a requirement with high sensitivity using high power PA drivers and horn but rather traditional smooth sounding hifi and a big amp with heavy load drivers and complex crossovers. It’s a completely different approach. I’m not saying it’s wrong but you should consider starting a new thread with new premises.
Seas are good stuff but have a very different audience than PA.
You could also then consider the A26 kit, and many other kits as well but forget that tube amp, you will need 100 watt to get +20dB dynamic headroom it’s a simple math for low end especially.
But to be honest be clear about your requirements, it seems they are not as set in stone as first assumed which basically opens up to anything. That seas 8” looks very basic to me, nothing fun about that one.
I still think you should build that 10”+horn faital, it will be fun. Not perfect but fun and it’s sensitivity will match the tube amp better than anything. Consider a pre assembled xo and 50l can just to get started.
I asked in a very early post if this project had to be with Faital drivers and the answer was yes (not sure why though, something about Faital have the best reviews?). I suggested looking at cheaper Eminemce to meet your requirements.
What I see now is that change the premise of the project. It’s no longer a requirement with high sensitivity using high power PA drivers and horn but rather traditional smooth sounding hifi and a big amp with heavy load drivers and complex crossovers. It’s a completely different approach. I’m not saying it’s wrong but you should consider starting a new thread with new premises.
Seas are good stuff but have a very different audience than PA.
You could also then consider the A26 kit, and many other kits as well but forget that tube amp, you will need 100 watt to get +20dB dynamic headroom it’s a simple math for low end especially.
But to be honest be clear about your requirements, it seems they are not as set in stone as first assumed which basically opens up to anything. That seas 8” looks very basic to me, nothing fun about that one.
I still think you should build that 10”+horn faital, it will be fun. Not perfect but fun and it’s sensitivity will match the tube amp better than anything. Consider a pre assembled xo and 50l can just to get started.
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Wasn't expecting this.But I will explain my change of heart...
you will never get 91db from that drive7 in a 57 litre enclosure,
more like 86-87 and 6 watts will only just get it moving.
I built a Markaudio 10p, 89.6db 8 ohms and min impedence at 7 ohms,in a 50 L box and my amp plays them louder than I care to listen.Why wouldn't my amp move the CA22RNY? If you heard or used the CA22RNY with a tube amp I will value your imput, if not then your opinion carries no weight.
I asked in a very early post if this project had to be with Faital drivers and the answer was yes (not sure why though, something about Faital have the best reviews?). I suggested looking at cheaper Eminemce to meet your requirements.
Yes the reason I wanted to use Faitalpro was because of all the positive reviews. Not sure why you recommended the cheaper Eminence when the Faitalpro were in my price range.I still believe that they are good.
A lot of money will be going into this project and I want to make it right.I could not find a DIY kit, which was my first option, so I looked elsewhere.Going custom I was pretty much on my own and not willing to take the risk of not liking the result. After speaking with the people at solen I decided that it would be a lesser risk working on this project with experienced people.Hence my change of heart.My requirement have not changed:1)Efficiency 2)Bass extension 3)Small footprint..And yes I do know that there are compromises to be made.
I’m not saying it’s wrong but you should consider starting a new thread with new premises.
Yes that was my intention but I would still like to hear from DIYer's who have heard or used the CA22RNY with tube amp.
you will never get 91db from that drive7 in a 57 litre enclosure,
more like 86-87 and 6 watts will only just get it moving.
I built a Markaudio 10p, 89.6db 8 ohms and min impedence at 7 ohms,in a 50 L box and my amp plays them louder than I care to listen.Why wouldn't my amp move the CA22RNY? If you heard or used the CA22RNY with a tube amp I will value your imput, if not then your opinion carries no weight.
I asked in a very early post if this project had to be with Faital drivers and the answer was yes (not sure why though, something about Faital have the best reviews?). I suggested looking at cheaper Eminemce to meet your requirements.
Yes the reason I wanted to use Faitalpro was because of all the positive reviews. Not sure why you recommended the cheaper Eminence when the Faitalpro were in my price range.I still believe that they are good.
A lot of money will be going into this project and I want to make it right.I could not find a DIY kit, which was my first option, so I looked elsewhere.Going custom I was pretty much on my own and not willing to take the risk of not liking the result. After speaking with the people at solen I decided that it would be a lesser risk working on this project with experienced people.Hence my change of heart.My requirement have not changed:1)Efficiency 2)Bass extension 3)Small footprint..And yes I do know that there are compromises to be made.
I’m not saying it’s wrong but you should consider starting a new thread with new premises.
Yes that was my intention but I would still like to hear from DIYer's who have heard or used the CA22RNY with tube amp.
I read that article many times and it pretty much confirms that I should be fine with 91db speakers. But not all high efficiency speakers act the same.Some are easier than others to driver.Some low sensitivity speakers eg 86-87 dbs are easier to drive than some 93-95 dbs speakers.
So my question is: Are the CA22RNY an easy or a hard load to drive?
So my question is: Are the CA22RNY an easy or a hard load to drive?
My thoughts are it won't work well with a SET. I don't own a SEAS22RNY.
The reason I am saying this is
1) Most drivers from the Scandinavian side (SEAS, Scanspeak etc) tend to like being driven hard. I always associate their speakers to go with a 100W amplifier or at least 30W push pull Valve. I just don't see them in reviews etc that goes with a flea powered SET. It will work, but I don't think you can get them to sing.
2) 91db is not really high efficiency, it would be the typical efficiency of most well designed 8"out there.
3) I think what you mean by drivability, you might want to look at Qms. From Troels website. Look for the part about old paper drivers.
SpeakerBuilding.com - Interview with Joachim Gerhard of Audio Physic, Page 1
High Qms means the speaker is not mechanically dampened, so it will have a lively sound. Dampened means it will have a flatter frequency response but being dampened, sound will be duller and lossy.
High Efficiency drivers have very high Qms. Qms for Faitalpro 8FE200 is 13, for the SEAS is 1.69.
I don't see any reason why you can't do it, but I think running it with a small low powered SET may not have any slam to the bass.
Another driver you can consider is the JA8008 HMQ. Designed by Troels for high efficiency, It has a Qms of 10.
I have actually another thread running on the 8FE200. I simulated it out and the bass is snot as bad as I thought. Just use a very low frequency port, maybe 40+Hz. I am going to try build it but I am not any good with crossovers, so I can't help you there.
You can try bass simulation with this software written by the late Jeff Bagby.
Loudspeaker Design Software
Oon
The reason I am saying this is
1) Most drivers from the Scandinavian side (SEAS, Scanspeak etc) tend to like being driven hard. I always associate their speakers to go with a 100W amplifier or at least 30W push pull Valve. I just don't see them in reviews etc that goes with a flea powered SET. It will work, but I don't think you can get them to sing.
2) 91db is not really high efficiency, it would be the typical efficiency of most well designed 8"out there.
3) I think what you mean by drivability, you might want to look at Qms. From Troels website. Look for the part about old paper drivers.
SpeakerBuilding.com - Interview with Joachim Gerhard of Audio Physic, Page 1
High Qms means the speaker is not mechanically dampened, so it will have a lively sound. Dampened means it will have a flatter frequency response but being dampened, sound will be duller and lossy.
High Efficiency drivers have very high Qms. Qms for Faitalpro 8FE200 is 13, for the SEAS is 1.69.
I don't see any reason why you can't do it, but I think running it with a small low powered SET may not have any slam to the bass.
Another driver you can consider is the JA8008 HMQ. Designed by Troels for high efficiency, It has a Qms of 10.
I have actually another thread running on the 8FE200. I simulated it out and the bass is snot as bad as I thought. Just use a very low frequency port, maybe 40+Hz. I am going to try build it but I am not any good with crossovers, so I can't help you there.
You can try bass simulation with this software written by the late Jeff Bagby.
Loudspeaker Design Software
Oon
Bring your tube amp to the people at Solen. Have them measure the output impedance of your amp. Using that measurement they can tailor the speaker crossover to be driven from that specific source impedance. You can also ask about using an autoformer with swamping resistor to flatten the impedance of the tweeter instead of attenuating it with a pair of resistors. An autoformer is just a tapped coil; they should be able to make a custom pair for you.
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I have tried the CA22RLY in a 60L vented box crossed over at about 700Hz. With a Tubelab SSE (5W) or SPP (4W - EL84 triode) the bass was enough. Do not listen all that loud. Did have to play around with box tuning to get it right.
Looks like your amp has feedback so output impedance will not be too high but should still be accounted for in the design. Solen will know what to do.
Looks like your amp has feedback so output impedance will not be too high but should still be accounted for in the design. Solen will know what to do.
I totally understand the change of heart when talking to experienced people, especially after struggle with box simulation and uncertainties with crossover its not at all surprising you chose a different path from local advice and expertice.
But if you bring also them these requirements they will ask you to chose max two. Its laws of physics you just cant have it all. Efficient bass extension require size.
You might be happy with the Seas anyway, just be aware that it is a very different application compared to the Faital concept looking also at your music preference from first post.
To me this is also the beaty of DIY, you get to decide the compromises for your application; i would chose efficiency over bass extension and foot print any day, opposite to what current shop supply offers hence I can only get what I want from going DIY - which is why I mentioned the Eminence concept cheap and efficient.
fabricadetabaco I'm glad you understand.We put a lot of time and sweat behind these projects in the hopes that they come out right so we try to stack the cards in our favor. I have done so much reading on the subject that it get so confusing and at the end you realise that the prefect speaker does not exist and never will exist, there are always compromises.
My search has taken me back to my very first option which was building a DIY kit using a proven design.The SEAS CA22RNY will not cut it with my amp and I will not invest in something that is sure to fail. I've sent a lot of emails to professionals in the industry and DIYer's and the feedback I get is not what I wanted to hear.
The thing with DIY is that you can't listen to the final product unless you know someone who has built it.The search continues for a high end high efficiency small foot print speaker for my 6 watt tube amp.
My search has taken me back to my very first option which was building a DIY kit using a proven design.The SEAS CA22RNY will not cut it with my amp and I will not invest in something that is sure to fail. I've sent a lot of emails to professionals in the industry and DIYer's and the feedback I get is not what I wanted to hear.
The thing with DIY is that you can't listen to the final product unless you know someone who has built it.The search continues for a high end high efficiency small foot print speaker for my 6 watt tube amp.
Now its where it gets interesting.
You probably know all or most of the following but Ill mention it anyway because its very relevant for the topic of efficiency. Or lets call it sensitivity instead because efficiency really is a bad term for what we are talking about, efficiency is the ratio between input power and active applicable electroaccoustic energy, where remaining reactive (non-productive) energy transfers to heating. Its not interesting in this case but more relevant for power handling in the coil for high power systems. This is a low number anyway (maybe 10%? please someone correct me, I have no idea really).
Anyway - we want to talk about sensitivity, not efficiency.
Your tube amp is 6 watt. I have no experience with tube amps but from what I understand they are classified as Class A? I have only experience with Class A/B transistor amps and it could very well be that a 6W Class A tube amp have the same energy capacity as a 60W Class AB amp, or 600W Class D amp. Someone else can propbably correct me on this.
Further its is important to understand how this is measured. Is it 8 ohm load? 4 ohm? 20-20kHz 0,01% THD pink noise or 1kHz 0,1% THD sine tone? These will have huge impact to the specification of the unit but the performance really its all about the energy capacity of the amp itself which in many cases can be seen on the Power Consumption (size of power supply) and Heat Dissipation (efficiency).
In any case a few established rules apply for the speaker itself:
For every doubling of effect a +3dB sound pressure level is achieved:
2watt = +3dB
4watt = +6dB
8watt = +9dB
16watt = +12dB
I think for your amp we can say theoretically 6watt = +7,5dB but it might be it has a lot more peak power available. Ill come back to that.
Further it is established that 10x power = +10dB SPL
10 watt = +10dB
100 watt = +20dB
1000 watt = +30dB
Now we come to the quasi science:
For many people +10dB is perceived twice as loud. This is for the most part established in the industry and it makes sense because sound is omnidirectional / 3-dimensional. Personally I think from a math perspective with a 100% effective and 100% omnidirectional speaker +9dB is the correct (+3dB in three directions as +3dB is twice the power) but for simplification of all the variables such as a speaker directionality differs with frequency as does the human ear differ both on frequency and SPL.
Now what does all that have to do with anything?
A 100watt RMS speaker driver is also often specified as 400watt PEAK (especially this 4/1 ratio is valid for most PA drivers). Why is this? I believe this is relating to the assumed average dynamic level on today's music, hinting towards that peaks are usually limited (by the mastering companies in the record industry) to max +6dB over "average" sound pressure level. But what is average sound pressure level? Read up on the loudness war, it all depends on the music type and the decade for which your favorite music is from.
Which brings me back to your case you say you listen to rock and electronic music.
These genres have gone through a dramatic change in the terms of loudness war the last 30 years.
If you listen to early electronic music from the 90s they have a huge dynamic level and are not compressed. They have a "low" average percieved loudness level but lots of dynamic headroom for peaks and plenty of sub bass. To be able to play music from the 90s loud you need therefore a sound system with a large headroom (high power amp and high peak power speakers, or high sensitive speaker in general), the music was tailored towards PA systems in clubs.
Rock on the other hand was already professionally established in the 90s and already then started to suffer from the loudness war. Peaks where clipped in the studio to push the average sound level up for it to sound "better" on MTV and Radio. Look at Red Hot Chili Peppers, these albums make my ear bleed.
Lately electronic music also suffer from the loudness war, dynamics are clipped and the average sound pressure level increased makes it possible to have a party on your phone. However it sounds horrible to me.
But it might be that if you listen to recent low dynamic music and low levels a 6w amp and a 90dB speaker is fine. But if you suddently want to play high dynamic music such play classical or early jazz/blues whatever on loud levels with bass extension, forget about it.
It is therefore very difficult for you to know what your speaker will sound like, given your requirement and music preference. Simulation will only help you identify serious flaws in design, nothing more. There only one way to find out and that is to try. I would therefore recommend you build a flexible design where you can replace parts as you learn. And start with something cheaper 😉
You probably know all or most of the following but Ill mention it anyway because its very relevant for the topic of efficiency. Or lets call it sensitivity instead because efficiency really is a bad term for what we are talking about, efficiency is the ratio between input power and active applicable electroaccoustic energy, where remaining reactive (non-productive) energy transfers to heating. Its not interesting in this case but more relevant for power handling in the coil for high power systems. This is a low number anyway (maybe 10%? please someone correct me, I have no idea really).
Anyway - we want to talk about sensitivity, not efficiency.
Your tube amp is 6 watt. I have no experience with tube amps but from what I understand they are classified as Class A? I have only experience with Class A/B transistor amps and it could very well be that a 6W Class A tube amp have the same energy capacity as a 60W Class AB amp, or 600W Class D amp. Someone else can propbably correct me on this.
Further its is important to understand how this is measured. Is it 8 ohm load? 4 ohm? 20-20kHz 0,01% THD pink noise or 1kHz 0,1% THD sine tone? These will have huge impact to the specification of the unit but the performance really its all about the energy capacity of the amp itself which in many cases can be seen on the Power Consumption (size of power supply) and Heat Dissipation (efficiency).
In any case a few established rules apply for the speaker itself:
For every doubling of effect a +3dB sound pressure level is achieved:
2watt = +3dB
4watt = +6dB
8watt = +9dB
16watt = +12dB
I think for your amp we can say theoretically 6watt = +7,5dB but it might be it has a lot more peak power available. Ill come back to that.
Further it is established that 10x power = +10dB SPL
10 watt = +10dB
100 watt = +20dB
1000 watt = +30dB
Now we come to the quasi science:
For many people +10dB is perceived twice as loud. This is for the most part established in the industry and it makes sense because sound is omnidirectional / 3-dimensional. Personally I think from a math perspective with a 100% effective and 100% omnidirectional speaker +9dB is the correct (+3dB in three directions as +3dB is twice the power) but for simplification of all the variables such as a speaker directionality differs with frequency as does the human ear differ both on frequency and SPL.
Now what does all that have to do with anything?
A 100watt RMS speaker driver is also often specified as 400watt PEAK (especially this 4/1 ratio is valid for most PA drivers). Why is this? I believe this is relating to the assumed average dynamic level on today's music, hinting towards that peaks are usually limited (by the mastering companies in the record industry) to max +6dB over "average" sound pressure level. But what is average sound pressure level? Read up on the loudness war, it all depends on the music type and the decade for which your favorite music is from.
Which brings me back to your case you say you listen to rock and electronic music.
These genres have gone through a dramatic change in the terms of loudness war the last 30 years.
If you listen to early electronic music from the 90s they have a huge dynamic level and are not compressed. They have a "low" average percieved loudness level but lots of dynamic headroom for peaks and plenty of sub bass. To be able to play music from the 90s loud you need therefore a sound system with a large headroom (high power amp and high peak power speakers, or high sensitive speaker in general), the music was tailored towards PA systems in clubs.
Rock on the other hand was already professionally established in the 90s and already then started to suffer from the loudness war. Peaks where clipped in the studio to push the average sound level up for it to sound "better" on MTV and Radio. Look at Red Hot Chili Peppers, these albums make my ear bleed.
Lately electronic music also suffer from the loudness war, dynamics are clipped and the average sound pressure level increased makes it possible to have a party on your phone. However it sounds horrible to me.
But it might be that if you listen to recent low dynamic music and low levels a 6w amp and a 90dB speaker is fine. But if you suddently want to play high dynamic music such play classical or early jazz/blues whatever on loud levels with bass extension, forget about it.
It is therefore very difficult for you to know what your speaker will sound like, given your requirement and music preference. Simulation will only help you identify serious flaws in design, nothing more. There only one way to find out and that is to try. I would therefore recommend you build a flexible design where you can replace parts as you learn. And start with something cheaper 😉
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I think I jumped an important statement I tried to make:
A 100w RMS speaker with 90dB sensitivity can play 110dB (90+20*) continuously and typically 116dB (110+6) peak assuming the program music are based on the industry standard of 6dB peak limitations. But this is not necessarily the case and its definitely not linear across the frequency range of the music.
(*from above table: 100 watt = log(10^2) = 2bel = +20dB).
This all assuming the amplifier have no distortion on 100w RMS and 400watt peak.
A 6W amp on the other hand you will be able to have 97,5dB (90+7,5** ) dB but we do not know if this RMS or peak. Assuming the later in reality with music program 6dB difference between peak and average you will in real situation only be able to play at 91,5dB (97,5 - 6) at 1m distance and with more dynamic music even less.....
(**from above assumption: 6w assumed +7,5dB)
My point is 6w on a 90dB sensitive system will distort very quickly unless you plan to use them as headphones. The Seas drives is likely not the right driver for this amp (unless it turns out that the 6w Class A in reality is similar to a 60w A/B and this is RMS 20-20kHz and not peak 1kHz.
Please anyone feel free to comment on my rusty theories lol.
A 100w RMS speaker with 90dB sensitivity can play 110dB (90+20*) continuously and typically 116dB (110+6) peak assuming the program music are based on the industry standard of 6dB peak limitations. But this is not necessarily the case and its definitely not linear across the frequency range of the music.
(*from above table: 100 watt = log(10^2) = 2bel = +20dB).
This all assuming the amplifier have no distortion on 100w RMS and 400watt peak.
A 6W amp on the other hand you will be able to have 97,5dB (90+7,5** ) dB but we do not know if this RMS or peak. Assuming the later in reality with music program 6dB difference between peak and average you will in real situation only be able to play at 91,5dB (97,5 - 6) at 1m distance and with more dynamic music even less.....
(**from above assumption: 6w assumed +7,5dB)
My point is 6w on a 90dB sensitive system will distort very quickly unless you plan to use them as headphones. The Seas drives is likely not the right driver for this amp (unless it turns out that the 6w Class A in reality is similar to a 60w A/B and this is RMS 20-20kHz and not peak 1kHz.
Please anyone feel free to comment on my rusty theories lol.
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Thanks Fabricadetabaco. Well explained and pretty much confirms what I have been told that the SEAS will not work with my amp. Although I do not listen to music loud, I don't want to be limited. I also noticed with the full range speakers I built,as an easy first DIY project, that these speakers do not do dynamic music very well.They are great for vocals but rock sounds very congested, hence my quest for a 2 way.
Hey,
I just had a thought, do you want to do a co ax using the Faitalpro?
Fabricaldo seems to be doing well with it. The eminence coax don't come with compression driver. you are suppose to fit in your own... that's where Faitalpro come in.
Oon
I just had a thought, do you want to do a co ax using the Faitalpro?
Fabricaldo seems to be doing well with it. The eminence coax don't come with compression driver. you are suppose to fit in your own... that's where Faitalpro come in.
Oon
Hello, non sure if OP still monitor this as been about 2 month, but maybe it worth posting as I've had a similar case in regards the enclosure/drivers sizes, and WinISD vs real word measurements turned out quite different by a margin.
When I was reading a lot about the Econowave threads around the net, and actually being inspired by, I've started a new project time ago based on budget Pro drivers using a 10" Midwoofer and the LTH102 horn as well.
This is the old thread regarding that speaker project.
So while the WinISD don't looked quite appealing with the driver of choice(PRV 10W650A with an FS of ~70Hz), I decided to go with the ~2.0FT^3(56L) net and the low tune (~47Hz) regardless, fortunately the real world measurements turned out somewhat good while experimenting.
WinISD driver/box prediction with ~2.4FT^3, ~48Hz tune:
Speaker measurement, about 2' from the side and 1' from the back walls:
Not a lot of bass extension as expected by Pro drivers, but definitely more bass/dynamics that some pricey small speakers claiming 40'ish Hz or lower.
, also the efficiency is so great that after the last hurricane leaving us without electricity for a long time, I was using an 6 watt chip amp(TDA1517) to drive them.
Lastly, I'm considering to upgrade the drivers with the previously mentioned Faital Pro 10PR320 and the HF108R after finish with current project.🙄
Regards
When I was reading a lot about the Econowave threads around the net, and actually being inspired by, I've started a new project time ago based on budget Pro drivers using a 10" Midwoofer and the LTH102 horn as well.
This is the old thread regarding that speaker project.
So while the WinISD don't looked quite appealing with the driver of choice(PRV 10W650A with an FS of ~70Hz), I decided to go with the ~2.0FT^3(56L) net and the low tune (~47Hz) regardless, fortunately the real world measurements turned out somewhat good while experimenting.
WinISD driver/box prediction with ~2.4FT^3, ~48Hz tune:
Speaker measurement, about 2' from the side and 1' from the back walls:
Not a lot of bass extension as expected by Pro drivers, but definitely more bass/dynamics that some pricey small speakers claiming 40'ish Hz or lower.
, also the efficiency is so great that after the last hurricane leaving us without electricity for a long time, I was using an 6 watt chip amp(TDA1517) to drive them.Lastly, I'm considering to upgrade the drivers with the previously mentioned Faital Pro 10PR320 and the HF108R after finish with current project.🙄
Regards
