2.5 crossover. Does it make sense?

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Right, thank thee for pointing it out to us! But transition is what matters most in a crossover. All series crossovers i have seen make at least Pi phase-turn. Behaviour far away from transition may be still important, but flanks should usually become steeper the farther away from the transition, not flatter.
 
Hi guys,

Appreciate all the info and really feel good to see people discussing a topic like this.

My understanding is that with one woofer having huge resistance spike at low frequently, two of them may make it a less load for the amps. And two woofers worKing at the same time at low range does provide more bass, as bsc does.

The huge inductor there is to damp the lower woofer at higher frequency and handover the work to the upper woofer.

It is a rather smart design for those who dont like big speakers with 8 or even 10" woofers.

A small room benefit from the design as i guess that is why b&w 603 is there.
 
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Could you explain why? This is a more convential (electrical) 1st order LP, 2nd order HP, and it differs only in the placement of resistors.

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dave
How to calculate the l and c in a sxo please?

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It all goes a bit quiet here when you ask for precise details. 😀

Overview F6 Bass-Midrange_HiVi, Inc.

Bit of a horror IMO. Wouldn't be my choice for a simple series crossover for sure, because your options are limited and drivers are best well-behaved. wolf_teeth did something with that HiVi F6 one in the Nephila.

A 2.5 way is quite a difficult speaker IMO. I'd start with a two way. Kevlar 6" bass and tweeter is not an unknown combination. B&W have made it their forte with stuff like the B&W 602 S3.

The tweeter filter is plain wrong for your 92dB Audax TW025m1, but a 4kHz crossover wouldn't be too hard. Maybe 4uF and 0.2mH and some resistors. Maybe third order. Bass loading depends on cabinet, but looks like reflex. Woofer is about a highish Le 1.8mH by my estimation.
 

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Bump.

Just a quick question - what wd be the result if each woofer's LP is set too close together?
If the LP are the same for both woofers then you just have a regular 2-way with no baffle step. As you reduce the LP for the 0.5 woofer you get more and more baffle step until you reach full baffle step (+6dB compensation). If you continue to lower the LP on the 0.5 woofer beyond that point, a dip in the midrange starts to appear - imagine that the 0.5 woofer is now being used as a subwoofer whose response doesn't roll off at the same point as the baffle 🙂
 
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It shouldn't matter how close the top of each woofer is, just that one woofer has the same sensitivity as the tweeter, and that one of them tops out to deal with the baffle. You could even cross that one higher if you were that way inclined but there wouldn't be much to justify that I guess.

As far a phase issues are concerned, the baffle woofer doesn't change much as it cuts out of the way so it works in practice.
 
Ideally the .5 woofer should be crossed at both 700Hz 1st order and 2kHz 2nd order (therefore making a sort of stepped 3rd order) for optimal phase tracking. One way of doing this is to just put an inductor in series with the .5 woofer and parallel it with the other woofer, so a single filter can take care of the upper crossover. Like has been done here:
Zaph|Audio

It can work to just have a 1st order on the .5 woofer and nothing else but I'd recommend simming it to make sure.
 
Ideally the .5 woofer should be crossed at both 700Hz 1st order and 2kHz 2nd order (therefore making a sort of stepped 3rd order) for optimal phase tracking. One way of doing this is to just put an inductor in series with the .5 woofer and parallel it with the other woofer, so a single filter can take care of the upper crossover. Like has been done here:
Zaph|Audio

It can work to just have a 1st order on the .5 woofer and nothing else but I'd recommend simming it to make sure.
The resistors on the woofer circuit - any issues there?
 
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