The only problem you could have is the heat from the resistor panel. Which looks like it is attached to the back panel being transffered to the mosfet heat sinks. But you could decouple that back panel with very thin nylon washers. This all depends on how effective the fans work.
Woooooooooow!!!
Very impressive work Henrik! I believe you have put in a few hours construction time more than me.... Very pro looking. I see you have about the same p2p tecnique as me (only when 3D becomes too complex though). Sad about your midrange driver; it must be very frustrating...
Yeah! ditch the fans, let it "burn, burn if you gonna burn" (RATM)
Where did you get the chassis?
My bias is more like 2,05A through each fet (measured in real life) and this is also what EWB5 told me I would get.
According to my understanding the gain in ordinary SOZ is (8//16)/1=5,33x. In your XSOZ the open loop gain is more like (in your case) (15//15)/0,33=22,7x and in my case (13,6//8)/0,33=15,26x. These numbers I got from Nelson.
My question was really how much I should alter the feedbackresistor to get 3dB more gain. The 60K value was just taken from thin air. The problem is that I only have about 0,5V output from my current analog rig, so I miss some gain to clip the XSOZ...
I think I will build a new RIAA amp anyways, but it would be nice to know..
Anyways; congrats on your new amps, they look absolutely stunning. I can almost see that they sound VERY good..
Very impressive work Henrik! I believe you have put in a few hours construction time more than me.... Very pro looking. I see you have about the same p2p tecnique as me (only when 3D becomes too complex though). Sad about your midrange driver; it must be very frustrating...
Yeah! ditch the fans, let it "burn, burn if you gonna burn" (RATM)
Where did you get the chassis?
My bias is more like 2,05A through each fet (measured in real life) and this is also what EWB5 told me I would get.
According to my understanding the gain in ordinary SOZ is (8//16)/1=5,33x. In your XSOZ the open loop gain is more like (in your case) (15//15)/0,33=22,7x and in my case (13,6//8)/0,33=15,26x. These numbers I got from Nelson.
My question was really how much I should alter the feedbackresistor to get 3dB more gain. The 60K value was just taken from thin air. The problem is that I only have about 0,5V output from my current analog rig, so I miss some gain to clip the XSOZ...
I think I will build a new RIAA amp anyways, but it would be nice to know..
Anyways; congrats on your new amps, they look absolutely stunning. I can almost see that they sound VERY good..
Gnomus
Thanks for the suggestin.
The fans really do a good job, the resistorsinks is about 60-65'C.
If I feel any need for lovering the temp. at the left an right heatsinks, I will do something like that.
Regards
Thanks for the suggestin.
The fans really do a good job, the resistorsinks is about 60-65'C.
If I feel any need for lovering the temp. at the left an right heatsinks, I will do something like that.
Regards
Henrik, thanks for posting the great pics! Are you still working off
the schematic that you've posted before? That is a beautiful amp.
I'm working on a X-BZLS to go with my X-SOZ, but i don't think i'll
be posting any pics 🙂 I've been trying to modify the original
BZLS Line Art for a PCB to build my X-BZLS. I just don't feel
comfortable building like you and Mads do... i need a PCB. I don't
think i could ever get it to work building point to point. I'll post
the line art if it looks workable, to see what you guys think.
thanks again for all your hard work - you've made the X-SOZ and
X-BOSOZ a reality for a lot of us (with a nod towards Mr. Pass too) 😉
m.
the schematic that you've posted before? That is a beautiful amp.
I'm working on a X-BZLS to go with my X-SOZ, but i don't think i'll
be posting any pics 🙂 I've been trying to modify the original
BZLS Line Art for a PCB to build my X-BZLS. I just don't feel
comfortable building like you and Mads do... i need a PCB. I don't
think i could ever get it to work building point to point. I'll post
the line art if it looks workable, to see what you guys think.
thanks again for all your hard work - you've made the X-SOZ and
X-BOSOZ a reality for a lot of us (with a nod towards Mr. Pass too) 😉
m.
Hi Mad_K
Thanks for the roses and for sharing my midrage driver frustration.
Every thing has been drawn in CAD, so it takes time, but in the end it saves me some, it almost works every time for me, and I can get the symmetry in the signalpath pretty perfect.
My Fet-heatsinks are 32'C above room temp, I think I will go for that.
The shassis I got from a store in Copenhagen, and they are made by Monacor, and they are not that expensive. But it seems as if the have stopped the model I have. This one is the closest, it's only 132 mm high, mine is 177mm.
http://www.monacor.com/produkte/ind...nguage=2&t=produkte/showObergruppenTopTen.cfm look at model nr. RC-113/SW
Regarding the gain, I have mede some quick sims, here is the result:
R122/123 = 62K => +3db and -3db @ 74 kHz
or
R120/121 = 6.8K => +3db and -3db @ 104 kHz
+3db isn't enough if you want the XSOZ to klip into an 8 Ohm load with an singleended input at the X_BSOZ @ 0.5V. Then you need:
R122/123 = 82K => 0utput amplitude = 10V and -3db @ 60kHz
or
R120/121 = 4.7k => Output amplitude = 10V and -3db @ 100kHz
Moe29
Thanks for the compliments.🙂
I hope you will get the xbsoz up and running verry soon, you woun't regret.
Lets see some lineart - and then post some pics!!!!!!
I have attached the scematic of my 10W X-SOZ.
Thanks for the roses and for sharing my midrage driver frustration.
Every thing has been drawn in CAD, so it takes time, but in the end it saves me some, it almost works every time for me, and I can get the symmetry in the signalpath pretty perfect.
My Fet-heatsinks are 32'C above room temp, I think I will go for that.
The shassis I got from a store in Copenhagen, and they are made by Monacor, and they are not that expensive. But it seems as if the have stopped the model I have. This one is the closest, it's only 132 mm high, mine is 177mm.
http://www.monacor.com/produkte/ind...nguage=2&t=produkte/showObergruppenTopTen.cfm look at model nr. RC-113/SW
Regarding the gain, I have mede some quick sims, here is the result:
R122/123 = 62K => +3db and -3db @ 74 kHz
or
R120/121 = 6.8K => +3db and -3db @ 104 kHz
+3db isn't enough if you want the XSOZ to klip into an 8 Ohm load with an singleended input at the X_BSOZ @ 0.5V. Then you need:
R122/123 = 82K => 0utput amplitude = 10V and -3db @ 60kHz
or
R120/121 = 4.7k => Output amplitude = 10V and -3db @ 100kHz
Moe29
Thanks for the compliments.🙂
I hope you will get the xbsoz up and running verry soon, you woun't regret.
Lets see some lineart - and then post some pics!!!!!!
I have attached the scematic of my 10W X-SOZ.
Many thanks for your effort in producing the numbers for me Henrik.
BTW, I think gigatron's comments where marked at me.. Which I don't understand..
BTW, I think gigatron's comments where marked at me.. Which I don't understand..
Hey Henrik 
My main power resistors, R201-R204 are 8 ohms as in the original SOZ. I assume that this won't affect things much?
Are MA1091 's are back to back diodes to protect the MosFETS from getting zapped? If so they are optional? (I think I'll use them though....)
Now, anyone: I can't afford the N Blackgates.
Are the Std range Blackgates better than say Panasonics?
Now that it looks like I will be building soon, I need to order parts.
Thank You,
Mark
My main power resistors, R201-R204 are 8 ohms as in the original SOZ. I assume that this won't affect things much?
Are MA1091 's are back to back diodes to protect the MosFETS from getting zapped? If so they are optional? (I think I'll use them though....)
Now, anyone: I can't afford the N Blackgates.
Are the Std range Blackgates better than say Panasonics?
Now that it looks like I will be building soon, I need to order parts.
Thank You,
Mark
Variac said:
I compared 1000/50 BG STD and Panasonic FC in my DAC's PS and BG sounded more open and refined. Also note that recently prices on BG went down. They are not THAT expensive anymore😉
You might also consider some Nichicons, as they are also pretty good caps and quite cheap.
Peter
I was hoping you would answer on the caps. I remember that you have an opinion on the BG's and that the priciest weren't always the best. Well, I might get the STDs at first, then upgrade over time. I'm dreaming of a future when I have at least one decent complete system and can then buy it better components for Christmas, etc 😉 which means I need to get some things at a lower price just to get it together. My resistors are pretty much top notch though!
I was hoping you would answer on the caps. I remember that you have an opinion on the BG's and that the priciest weren't always the best. Well, I might get the STDs at first, then upgrade over time. I'm dreaming of a future when I have at least one decent complete system and can then buy it better components for Christmas, etc 😉 which means I need to get some things at a lower price just to get it together. My resistors are pretty much top notch though!
Hi Variac
I am using Super-e coupled BGNx's, but they are just 6.3V which is at the lower edge - I hope they will last long anyway.
You could go for the Panasonic FC/Nichicons now, and next Chrismas get yourself some 220uF/16V Blackgate FK. In my first testsetup I had some old Panasonic HFS, and the sound were nice.
Best regards
8 Ohm is perfect!Variac said:
Yes just for protection, I always use them.Variac said:
I for shure believe in Peters test, I have some similar expierience that also supports his staement. 4700/50V BG STD in the XSOZ PSU really does make a difference.Variac said:
I am using Super-e coupled BGNx's, but they are just 6.3V which is at the lower edge - I hope they will last long anyway.
You could go for the Panasonic FC/Nichicons now, and next Chrismas get yourself some 220uF/16V Blackgate FK. In my first testsetup I had some old Panasonic HFS, and the sound were nice.
Best regards
Doh! (where's the Homer Simpson smiley?)
This will show how ignorant I am - I forgot the voltage will be a lot lower at this point!!!! I was pricing 50v caps . Yes, there's quite a difference in price. Whew, I'm glad I brought this up!!! Might be helpful to include volts for the caps in some future schematic. Also little plusses to show the direction of polarized caps- hate to blow up my BGs. Thank you, guys, I'm right off to check the prices of small BG caps. It's Christmas in February...
Mark
This will show how ignorant I am - I forgot the voltage will be a lot lower at this point!!!! I was pricing 50v caps . Yes, there's quite a difference in price. Whew, I'm glad I brought this up!!! Might be helpful to include volts for the caps in some future schematic. Also little plusses to show the direction of polarized caps- hate to blow up my BGs. Thank you, guys, I'm right off to check the prices of small BG caps. It's Christmas in February...
Mark
Henrik said:
Why have you reduced r 205 and 206 to 1 ohm instead of 8 in the original soz? And why is the 1 ohm across in between the bias resistors gone in your design?
Cheers
Magura🙂
Variac said:
OUPS...😀
Thats what happens when you dont look at the schematic, but think you can remember it by heart
The 1 ohm across is missing though 🙂
Cheers
Magura
I remembered because I held my breath while checking the differences between the regular and X, because I had just bought the power resistors and was panicking that I would need to replace them.
BTW , nice dress 😉
Off Topic:
Henrick, any need for a pot on the Bsoz input or does it handle normal CD player output fine?
BTW , nice dress 😉
Off Topic:
Henrick, any need for a pot on the Bsoz input or does it handle normal CD player output fine?
Variac
16V for the feedbackresistors should be fine, if you want to play it safe safe you can use 25V ratings. When I go as low as 6.3V it's an experiment, but shuld be okay, since the DC level is 5.6V at the drains, and the max. AC voltage across the cap is 5.5V at 0.01 Hz, so in theory it's okay.
Yes X-BSOZ handels normal cd output just fine.
Magura
I believe you are talking about R7 from the original circiut. That one I have shorted or replaced with plain wire in order to get maximum openloop gain. So yes, it's gone.
Regards
16V for the feedbackresistors should be fine, if you want to play it safe safe you can use 25V ratings. When I go as low as 6.3V it's an experiment, but shuld be okay, since the DC level is 5.6V at the drains, and the max. AC voltage across the cap is 5.5V at 0.01 Hz, so in theory it's okay.
Yes X-BSOZ handels normal cd output just fine.
Magura
I believe you are talking about R7 from the original circiut. That one I have shorted or replaced with plain wire in order to get maximum openloop gain. So yes, it's gone.
Regards
Just to avoid confusing people:
I think Hendrik means capacitors. Poor guy, I make him keep explaining stuff till even he is confused?
I think Hendrik means capacitors. Poor guy, I make him keep explaining stuff till even he is confused?
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