This thread has generated 665,937 views and counting !!!!!!!!
That’s a great number but I feel that another metric is how many people have built it and love it.
Some threads have more views but very few builds due to either the complexity or cost.
It would be interesting to know how many people have built them. Sense I resurrected my efforts, you can count me as one builder. Thanks X!
I bought my sheets of BB-3/4" ply. Before cutting I thought I would check the TL schematics and do a little calculating. I seem to add the height to 40.5" if I am correctly reading the schematic.
If builders are building to 40" height are they building from top to bottom and not worrying about the 1/2" lost as it is on the bottom. Or, am I totally out to lunch😕
Measurement from top to vent opening: 3/4" + 8" + 13" + 3/4" = 22.5"
Measurement of vent opening = 2-1/2"
Measurement from btm of vent to bottom: 3/4"+3"+6"+5"+3/4" = 15-1/2"
Total = 40-1/2"
View attachment 1002678
Thanks,
MM
Extend the 8.5-inch width a bit, so that the woofer circumference can stay within the front baffle ply. It will make your circle routing and assembly a lot easier.
It must be the RS225-8. Aluminum cone and 8ohms. They are now in stock.
Thanks for the info, other than the 10F fullrange, which is the second best full range that you recommend?
I am pretty fond of the vifa tc9, a very neutral sounding speaker.
If I were to use the tc9 is there any major crossover change I should be aware of?
10F and B80 are about equal and comes down to preference for glass vs paper cone sound. TC9FD is slightly less sensitive than 10F, so maybe 4.7R/6.8R resistor divider on the tweeter (6.8R to ground and 4.7R to the driver) in order to attenuate it less. You can adjust by ear to your liking.
10F and B80 are about equal and comes down to preference for glass vs paper cone sound. TC9FD is slightly less sensitive than 10F, so maybe 4.7R/6.8R resistor divider on the tweeter (6.8R to ground and 4.7R to the driver) in order to attenuate it less. You can adjust by ear to your liking.
Thanks xrk971, I will follow your advice.
I saw in a post that the Faital Pro 6FE100 can be used in a sealed configuration.
This speaker is easily available where I am, can the existing crossover be used with the 6FE100, together with the modifications you have advised
2nd question, the tline described will only work with the RS225?
6FE100 is a nice driver but a totally different speaker. The crossover is based on the RS225-8. Anything else means a new speaker design from the ground up.
Well, you will soon have another pair built. Did a test cut on scrap to ensure the proper sizing of each piece (and found a brain fart, which is why you prototype first with cheap wood). Hope to be done by the end of Christmas break.That’s a great number but I feel that another metric is how many people have built it and love it.
Some threads have more views but very few builds due to either the complexity or cost.
Hi KKing,
Awesome news. We look forward to hearing about your build. Please post us on the progress as you go.
Awesome news. We look forward to hearing about your build. Please post us on the progress as you go.
zman01,
Did you build the Elsinore Project speaker?
Audiostar,
Sorry, missed this earlier - no, I have not been able to start the Elsinore speaker build. Have not been built much at all during the COVID19 pandemic time.
Hi,
I was curious and as with my external xo it is an easy task, I tried the Peerless TC9FD18-08 instead of the Visaton B80, of course not built in, just in a cardboard "cabinet". I know, it's not how it should be, but it sounds really pretty good, even with the attenuation of the B80 in the xo, they have smooth higher mids. I think, they are worth trying.
I was curious and as with my external xo it is an easy task, I tried the Peerless TC9FD18-08 instead of the Visaton B80, of course not built in, just in a cardboard "cabinet". I know, it's not how it should be, but it sounds really pretty good, even with the attenuation of the B80 in the xo, they have smooth higher mids. I think, they are worth trying.
Nice trick, Plott! I have done this myself a couple times with “alternate” tweeters. A good one to look out for is the 8in dipole planar by GRS. Sweet sound.
Hi X. I've been waiting to see if you executed this speaker with the 8" GRS planar. Have you?
Hi meanie,
Thanks for the tip. I plan to have the front baffle cover the enclosure edges (ie: 10" wide baffle), not the 8.5" baffle inside the enclosure edges. Are you implying to maybe make the enclosure width larger than 10"?. If so, by how much?
MM
Thanks for the tip. I plan to have the front baffle cover the enclosure edges (ie: 10" wide baffle), not the 8.5" baffle inside the enclosure edges. Are you implying to maybe make the enclosure width larger than 10"?. If so, by how much?
MM
Thanks X! I think I wouldn't like the GRS dipols, they have - according to the manufacturers diagram - an "intense" treble range, which don't meets my taste, even with the roll off when built in and angled.Nice trick, Plott! I have done this myself a couple times with “alternate” tweeters. A good one to look out for is the 8in dipole planar by GRS. Sweet sound.
Just one question, X. Is it possible to position the FR outside of the TL cabinet, above the bass driver (like my cardboard trial, but better), or is the positioning inside the cabinet a must, a required part of the acoustic design?
try with TC9 in openbaffle.....Just one question, X. Is it possible to position the FR outside of the TL cabinet, above the bass driver (like my cardboard trial, but better), or is the positioning inside the cabinet a must, a required part of the acoustic design?

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