Looks fantastic Meanie!!
You are well on your way. Take your time, the devil is in the details. The bracing, sealing and applying damping materials takes much longer than you would think.
You will be greatly rewarded 😉🙂
You are well on your way. Take your time, the devil is in the details. The bracing, sealing and applying damping materials takes much longer than you would think.
You will be greatly rewarded 😉🙂
Thanks Vunce!
I may have to start buying F clamps before assembly.
Will take my time to seal them up properly, i hope.
I may have to start buying F clamps before assembly.
Will take my time to seal them up properly, i hope.
Good to see the progress Meanie, and good luck with rest of the build!
If you have any questions on glue, clamps, damping material etc, please let us know.
If you have any questions on glue, clamps, damping material etc, please let us know.
Is there any chance of a smaller desktop monitor size for this?
Cannot fit these on my desk, would it make sense to replace the 8" woofer with a 4" for a mini-monitor setup - Dayton / SBA have miniwoofers that go down to 60hz, with wall boost these could easily manage my daily desktop duty.
Cannot fit these on my desk, would it make sense to replace the 8" woofer with a 4" for a mini-monitor setup - Dayton / SBA have miniwoofers that go down to 60hz, with wall boost these could easily manage my daily desktop duty.
Try this: FR58EX and AC130F1 in 5L cabinet
FR58EX and AC130F1 micro-FAST / WAW
If you use DSP and active 1st order XO, results look like this:
Step function:
Later generation FR58EX seems to have picked up a bad breakup at 10kHz:
FR58EX and AC130F1 micro-FAST / WAW
If you use DSP and active 1st order XO, results look like this:
Step function:
Later generation FR58EX seems to have picked up a bad breakup at 10kHz:
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That looks perfect - thanks! Will be going with a DSP so just need to find 2 elements that match decently.
Edit: Ugh the AC130 seems to be in short supply in Europe, need to find an alternative...
Edit: Ugh the AC130 seems to be in short supply in Europe, need to find an alternative...
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Try Faital 6FE100 - that will be 85dB after -5dB baffle step falloff. Will match a FR58EX or TC9FD or 10F/8424 or B80 nicely.
It needs 15L sealed for 87Hz F3. Is that too big?
Or Peerless NE180W-8. A wonderful sounding woofer. That will be 84Hz with 7.5L sealed. Much more compact. Easy to integrate into XO as I have used this several times already.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1134--tymphany-ne180w-08-spec-sheet.pdf
With the convenience of DSP, you can run 1st order or Harsch XO with ease. Harsch might be better for NE180W to suppress breakup at 3kHz.
Other driver to consider for the fullrange includes SBA SB65WBAC25-4 and Vifa TC7FD.
It needs 15L sealed for 87Hz F3. Is that too big?
Or Peerless NE180W-8. A wonderful sounding woofer. That will be 84Hz with 7.5L sealed. Much more compact. Easy to integrate into XO as I have used this several times already.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1134--tymphany-ne180w-08-spec-sheet.pdf
With the convenience of DSP, you can run 1st order or Harsch XO with ease. Harsch might be better for NE180W to suppress breakup at 3kHz.
Other driver to consider for the fullrange includes SBA SB65WBAC25-4 and Vifa TC7FD.
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Thanks again for really great answer.
I'm now buying 10f8414 married with dayton da115, should manage with a 4,5l box playing down to F3 58hz. A little lower sensitivity but DSP hopefully manages that as well.
10f8414 in a dagger as in your design, Dayton in BR I'll move now from derailing this.🙂
I'm now buying 10f8414 married with dayton da115, should manage with a 4,5l box playing down to F3 58hz. A little lower sensitivity but DSP hopefully manages that as well.
10f8414 in a dagger as in your design, Dayton in BR I'll move now from derailing this.🙂
I like how smooth the DA115 is but after baffle step you are at 80dB sensitivity. Might be fine for near field desktop use though. Good that it can go to 58Hz in such a small box.
I am listening to my 10F/RS225 TL's for the last time before going away for 10 days on vacation to my apartment in Michigan. I'll miss the TL's - they are really special. Although I have the sealed version in Michigan so it won't be cold turkey. I'll bring my ESS 422H headphones and PCA headphone amp along though. Listening to Samba Triste by Stan Getz and Charlie Byrd - great song. The vacation is sort of bad timing as I just took delivery of a new Dremel 3D45, but won't get to play with it.
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Are these suitable for theater use? I built 5 sofar, sound pretty good but during movies they seem to distort under normal listening levels. Can't really explain well enough but for example, during a scene there was a wolf Howell and it sounded like it was breaking up. Lossless audio track so not bad audio. Not like I'm cranking it either - most I ever go on AVR is -18 which is not very loud at all.
Running sealed versions rs225-4 & RS100-8
Running sealed versions rs225-4 & RS100-8
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When I had breakup at a crescendo like female operatic soprano - it was due to my amp clipping. These speakers are relatively inefficient due to sealed nature and baffle step losses. A 25w amp will clip at louder levels. You need minimum 40w, preferably 75w per channel amp.
Try a more powerful amp and see if distortion still occurs.
Try a more powerful amp and see if distortion still occurs.
makes sense.
I had some 83db e-stats.
Had a carver m200t (120w into 8).
On loud (not very, maybe 103 at speaker, 93db 10' away), noticed the lights in the room pulsing with the music.
Apparently, that amp has a tiny transformer and the power supply would only conduct on the peaks of the sine wave input ac, thus causing fluctuations on the line ac in the room.
I had some 83db e-stats.
Had a carver m200t (120w into 8).
On loud (not very, maybe 103 at speaker, 93db 10' away), noticed the lights in the room pulsing with the music.
Apparently, that amp has a tiny transformer and the power supply would only conduct on the peaks of the sine wave input ac, thus causing fluctuations on the line ac in the room.
Hi Norman,
If lights are pulsing with so little power drain from the mains from your amplifier, reason has IMHO no link with the size of the supply XFMR, but better have a look to the network wiring cross section or put the blame on the mains impedance at your house... maybe a more powerful supply could cancel most of it (but not all of it...)
Regards,
Kal
If lights are pulsing with so little power drain from the mains from your amplifier, reason has IMHO no link with the size of the supply XFMR, but better have a look to the network wiring cross section or put the blame on the mains impedance at your house... maybe a more powerful supply could cancel most of it (but not all of it...)
Regards,
Kal
I’m not sure, just an older friend that said the diodes in its power supply only conducted on the peaks (allowing carver to use a tiny X-former and small caps), and as the current surges increased, you could perceive the lights lightly pulsing with the bass, just pulling current straight from the wall basically.
The carver m1.5 would draw massive current when getting close to its max power rating also (similar power supply design).
amps, power supplies, not my thing.
The carver m1.5 would draw massive current when getting close to its max power rating also (similar power supply design).
amps, power supplies, not my thing.
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Yes, diodes of a bridge rectifier loaded by large caps would only conduct on the mains' sinusoidal voltage peaks and the more power is drawn, the more the peaks' current is high, but the thing is:
If the supply XFMR is huge (means lower internal impedance), it will "pass-on" the large current peaks to the Mains, which in turn will either keep up with the sinusoidal voltage value (low impedance network) or will loose some volts at the moment in time when the current peaks occur because of its relatively high impedance, and this may be visible from the lights if the voltage loss is significant.
If the supply XFMR is kind of under-sized, it will then have too high internal impedance and its output voltage will drop, causing other issues at the amplifier level, but Mains voltage would be less corrupted in that case.
(Note: on both cases, the conduction duration of the diodes on peaks will lengthen because of this voltage drop)
Hope this helps.
Kal
If the supply XFMR is huge (means lower internal impedance), it will "pass-on" the large current peaks to the Mains, which in turn will either keep up with the sinusoidal voltage value (low impedance network) or will loose some volts at the moment in time when the current peaks occur because of its relatively high impedance, and this may be visible from the lights if the voltage loss is significant.
If the supply XFMR is kind of under-sized, it will then have too high internal impedance and its output voltage will drop, causing other issues at the amplifier level, but Mains voltage would be less corrupted in that case.
(Note: on both cases, the conduction duration of the diodes on peaks will lengthen because of this voltage drop)
Hope this helps.
Kal
alternative to 10F/8424 and RS225 combo
XRK971,
Hi,
I like the concept of the above combo and would like to design and build a pair similar speakers based on this concept with my available drivers I already owned. I own a number of 6,7 bass drivers and a few 3"-4" full range drivers. I understand the x-over will be different and I need to test the speakers after paper designing, I have all the test gears to test the combo.
Even if I have the few 3" - 4" full range I am thinking of getting a pair Tang band 3" W3-2141 as full range. What do you think? I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few questions after I receive all the drivers before I start designing.
Thanks.
XRK971,
Hi,
I like the concept of the above combo and would like to design and build a pair similar speakers based on this concept with my available drivers I already owned. I own a number of 6,7 bass drivers and a few 3"-4" full range drivers. I understand the x-over will be different and I need to test the speakers after paper designing, I have all the test gears to test the combo.
Even if I have the few 3" - 4" full range I am thinking of getting a pair Tang band 3" W3-2141 as full range. What do you think? I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few questions after I receive all the drivers before I start designing.
Thanks.