2x "Thor's Hammers" done. Thanks X for a fantastic design.
Only problem is my lm3876 amp is struggling.
So off to build a FH9HVX, X that order you just got for PCBs is mine.. hehah.
Thanks.
Nik
Only problem is my lm3876 amp is struggling.
So off to build a FH9HVX, X that order you just got for PCBs is mine.. hehah.
Thanks.
Nik
Just shot showing the side finish, cedar stain varnish.
Beautiful looking speakers! Congratulations and happy listening. They ideally should have 50w amp minimum and 100w is perfect. FH9HVX will not disappoint.
Cant find what im looking for so im SUPER sorry if I missed it.... With materials at insane levels of money(MDF 3/4" $65 sheet here) - The "pink" foam is it strong enough for the rs225 daily running with a plywood/mdf face? I built these a year or so ago and was having bad luck- figured give it another go as Im tired of seeing 10-----rs225-4 sitting on a shelf collecting dust seeing as they basically doubled in price. I use my speakers for HT usage so they can get pretty loud at times- and I prefer to let my bass run free sorta- ( i hate 80hz xo, generally do 40 if capable) also I didnt see specs for the bass reflex - was thinking doing mine slot ported using the same foam.
There is a XO for the 4 ohm version here:
It has not been verified yet and is approximate based on sims.
Just keep the baffle width at 10in and center to center spacing of full range and woofer at 7.0in for the crossover to be applicable.
For bass reflex, you just need to pick a volume (height and depth) that suits you and use a reflex port calculator to set your tuning. Probably 35Hz to 38Hz is a good spot to aim for. If you only need 50Hz then sealed is best.
This speaker is not meant for Dolby or THX certified HT style SPL’s (115dB peaks at 2m or something like that). I think they top out at 102dB or something like that (excursion limited).
An 87dB woofer can be no better than 83dB sensitive (at 100Hz) once baffle step losses are accounted for.
You might consider a bipole with one RS225-4 facing backwards and wired in series. You should get true 87dB sensitivity since no baffle step loss and might be able to use 8 ohm crossover.
And yes, XPS foam properly braced and glued with industrial adhesive (I used Liquid Nails non VOC) and faced with plywood will work well, sound great and is very durable. It’s also very easy to transport as it weighs almost nothing. I think Vunce still uses his XPS/plywood speakers and has not had the motivation to build the all wood ones even though he has a set of pre-made baffles in-hand. 🙂
They must be sounding great and looking “good enough”.
It has not been verified yet and is approximate based on sims.
Just keep the baffle width at 10in and center to center spacing of full range and woofer at 7.0in for the crossover to be applicable.
For bass reflex, you just need to pick a volume (height and depth) that suits you and use a reflex port calculator to set your tuning. Probably 35Hz to 38Hz is a good spot to aim for. If you only need 50Hz then sealed is best.
This speaker is not meant for Dolby or THX certified HT style SPL’s (115dB peaks at 2m or something like that). I think they top out at 102dB or something like that (excursion limited).
An 87dB woofer can be no better than 83dB sensitive (at 100Hz) once baffle step losses are accounted for.
You might consider a bipole with one RS225-4 facing backwards and wired in series. You should get true 87dB sensitivity since no baffle step loss and might be able to use 8 ohm crossover.
And yes, XPS foam properly braced and glued with industrial adhesive (I used Liquid Nails non VOC) and faced with plywood will work well, sound great and is very durable. It’s also very easy to transport as it weighs almost nothing. I think Vunce still uses his XPS/plywood speakers and has not had the motivation to build the all wood ones even though he has a set of pre-made baffles in-hand. 🙂
They must be sounding great and looking “good enough”.
I like the name Thor’s Hammer. I suppose the ScanSpeak gives it the Nordic heritage for the Thor, but the woofer or hammer is made in Taiwan. 🙂
Giving you build another try- BAD room lots of reflections echo's etc lol needs treatments... But i did two test cabs- i fudged up and made them .10cuft to small but the are test cabs....sealed. here is 10' MLP- im assuming room is making them sound worse then they really are. Have to get used to not using a CD/horn lol.. Anyway I know they may not be the beast measurements but its whats going on in my room 10' away
I notice that you use a 4-side pyramid for your dipole tweeter daggers. Would this not be suitable for a 10F dagger? If unsuitable, is it because the 10F plays lower in frequency, thus I guess inducing greater resonance?
5 sides would be better (no reflection symmetry modes) but too big to implement on the small square space I had on back of tweeter. It’s not a big difference as long as it is sufficiently long and stuffed with polyfill/fiberglass/rock wool etc. and first couple inches lined with felt or melamine foam.
The way you put this indicates that the RS225 is the limiting factor by far when it comes to SPL? (At least in the bookshelf version)High passed at 80Hz? pfftt... 105dB is easy... 🙂
Indeed 105dB peak can be attained with -3dB set at 80Hz via LR4 HPF in a sealed box. Peak power is 250watts though, sustained RMS max is 101dB.
Is it safe to assume that the 10F with this crossover and cabinet configuration can play at THX levels without breaking a sweat?
I think THX is quite challenging for most HiFi speakers. 85dB reference level with 20dB headroom. So capable of 105dB. The bass needs to be able to hit 115dB reference levels. I think the 10F/8424 can do this if high pass above 500Hz. But distortion for 10F at 105dB may be quite high. You would want something closer to a 5in PA driver like PRV 5MR450NDY. Then add a tweeter that can handle the top octave at high SPL. Usually horn loaded CD’s or arrays of dome tweeters.
That is exactly what I was hoping for! I am trying for something that is centered around extreme refinement at lower listening volumes, but which has the pep to rock here and there. I think something along the lines of the 10F will suit my needs in this case, as my XO point will be at least 500Hz
Hi this project really piques my interest.
Suppose the same tc09 drivers were used, what would you say is the improvement in top end compared to OBs or FASTs such as manzanita? Imho small full range can get the job done in resolving upper octaves and do have their seductiveness but compared to a well integrated tweeter it always loses out in that last bit of refinement.
Also how would you go about turning this project into a 12" version? Im needing something big to fill up my SO's studio space and this project speaks to me more than the econowaves because of how novel/challenging it seems. 👍
Ah i see that mtm version was talked about before. Looks like thats the way ill prob head towards 🙃
Suppose the same tc09 drivers were used, what would you say is the improvement in top end compared to OBs or FASTs such as manzanita? Imho small full range can get the job done in resolving upper octaves and do have their seductiveness but compared to a well integrated tweeter it always loses out in that last bit of refinement.
Also how would you go about turning this project into a 12" version? Im needing something big to fill up my SO's studio space and this project speaks to me more than the econowaves because of how novel/challenging it seems. 👍
Ah i see that mtm version was talked about before. Looks like thats the way ill prob head towards 🙃
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X has compared a daggered driver as sounding a lot like open baffle, but being monopole. So, if what he says is correct then a tc09 daggered and OB should have similar transients, but one of course will be dipole
Hi All,
My TL's are coming along & about to glue last panel/side on. Have a couple of build related questions.
1/ Has anyone got a recommended polyester fibre stuffing mass for the sports cone using a B80 driver ?
2/ Thinking of using plastic insect screen either side of loose soccer ball stuffing in cab base + to add some as a bug screen just out of sight below the vent.
Does anyone know if this may cause audible output due to air movement ?
Thx
My TL's are coming along & about to glue last panel/side on. Have a couple of build related questions.
1/ Has anyone got a recommended polyester fibre stuffing mass for the sports cone using a B80 driver ?
2/ Thinking of using plastic insect screen either side of loose soccer ball stuffing in cab base + to add some as a bug screen just out of sight below the vent.
Does anyone know if this may cause audible output due to air movement ?
Thx
Attachments
The stuffing in the sports cone is not critical - just add enough to what I would call, moderately dense (not fluffly, maybe a ball the size of a large grapefruit when fluffy). You can adjust as needed through the driver cutout. Line the mouth of the cone wall with felt or melamine foam pads (first 2-3 in). Leave a small 1in air gap between the driver magnet and the rear stuffing for breathing room. A bug mesh screen if not too fine will not affect the sound. Something like window screen probably too fine. Another one is coarse (low 15 PPI) reticulated aquarium filter foam. You can use the thickness of it to tune the impedance curve and get a nice combination of bass extension and low group delay and it can be done at the vent aperture. Tune until the double impedance peaks are reduced and straddle a minimum in between circa 10 to 15ohms. But listening with a song with good kick drums and adjust by ear works very well too.
Thanks for quick reply X.
Was hoping to get stuffing pretty close first up - because I've used 18mm mdf, don't want to be pulling drivers out too many times.
Screen I've got is probably what you're calling window screen. Flexible fibre glass with squares around 3 x 3mm size.
Was hoping to get stuffing pretty close first up - because I've used 18mm mdf, don't want to be pulling drivers out too many times.
Screen I've got is probably what you're calling window screen. Flexible fibre glass with squares around 3 x 3mm size.