Thanks for the replies. I didn't mean to hijack your thread, X, and I realize using the Esoteric would mean a different speaker. I just wondered if you had looked at the driver, since it seemed to me like another unusually well-controlled large driver, and perhaps a candidate for a first-order XO.
Certainly it can't move as much air as RS225 because of the lower xmax, and wow... the difference between 7" and 8" seems a whole lot greater now that you compared surface area...
It would fit with the glass fiber theme, at least 🙂
This was my attempt to tame its peaks, in case it is of any further interest.
Certainly it can't move as much air as RS225 because of the lower xmax, and wow... the difference between 7" and 8" seems a whole lot greater now that you compared surface area...
It would fit with the glass fiber theme, at least 🙂
This was my attempt to tame its peaks, in case it is of any further interest.
stellarelephant,
I followed your link out of interest and would say the 1st option to me would be the preferred one. With all the additional trap ccts you are not achieving any improvement and I'm sure when you listen to the modded speaker you'll hear a considerable sound quality degradation.
Some suggestions if I may:
- reduce the XO frequency, make it around 2k, and lower if possible
- if using the Scan Speak 10F you can drop it to 1 - 1.2k safely and with great benefit
- use a Series XO, it will simplify everything and sound so coherent
- of course BSC will be an issue, so consider dropping the XO freq. to the BSC freq. if your tweet can cope.
Have fun.
I followed your link out of interest and would say the 1st option to me would be the preferred one. With all the additional trap ccts you are not achieving any improvement and I'm sure when you listen to the modded speaker you'll hear a considerable sound quality degradation.
Some suggestions if I may:
- reduce the XO frequency, make it around 2k, and lower if possible
- if using the Scan Speak 10F you can drop it to 1 - 1.2k safely and with great benefit
- use a Series XO, it will simplify everything and sound so coherent
- of course BSC will be an issue, so consider dropping the XO freq. to the BSC freq. if your tweet can cope.
Have fun.
Someone on the PE thread said the same about it being best to avoid the notches. Thanks for your advice...I'll try it. But I may just give in and build X's proven speaker eventually. The transmission line bass and of course the pristine time alignment make it very appealing!
The TL version of this speaker is one of the best sounding speakers I have heard. It’s up there on the top 3 of my list. And it’s not just because it’s “my baby is the the most beautiful” talk. You can ask the others who have built it and they will tell you similar things. It’s not going to be able to play super loud, but within a moderate size room domestic setting, it’s a super speaker that I can listen to day after day and year after year. Build it! You won’t regret it.
My fear is that the RS225-8 will be discontinued one day. I have stocked up on spares already. 🙂
My fear is that the RS225-8 will be discontinued one day. I have stocked up on spares already. 🙂
Hi, some new photos. I hope it's good. I put maybe too much Noico for compensate the 18mm mdf instead 22mm plywood. I put dry sand in the hole to give more weight too and now it's begin too feel very solid !!
i'll probably close the box tomorrow 🙂
then sanding and painting (it can be long ...) .
Thank you all for your advise and support from the beginning .
View attachment 948974
View attachment 948975
View attachment 948976
View attachment 948977
View attachment 948978
View attachment 948979
View attachment 948980
i'll probably close the box tomorrow 🙂
then sanding and painting (it can be long ...) .
Thank you all for your advise and support from the beginning .
View attachment 948974
View attachment 948975
View attachment 948976
View attachment 948977
View attachment 948978
View attachment 948979
View attachment 948980
Hi Moutik,
Please repost links to your images or upload them to the DIYA server. I find jpg file format in landscape mode 1200pix wide are best.
Looking forward to seeing your speakers!
Thanks,
X
Please repost links to your images or upload them to the DIYA server. I find jpg file format in landscape mode 1200pix wide are best.
Looking forward to seeing your speakers!
Thanks,
X
Moutik,
Your TL’s are coming out fantastic! I like your use of the hollow cavity.
I put bags of lead shot in my foam-core TL proto’s 😉
Your TL’s are coming out fantastic! I like your use of the hollow cavity.
I put bags of lead shot in my foam-core TL proto’s 😉
Thank you Vunce!! Bags of lead is a great idea!!the wood cover is used tu put more glue when i'll close the back panel. I'll try to make a white white gloss paint on it, i think they deserve the best finition i can do.
Very neat work, Moutik! I like how nicely trimmed your egg crate foam liner is. I bet these are heavy cabinets in MDF. But that gives them great stability for better bass and more precise imaging. No spiked feet needed. 🙂
Hi, as i'm still waiting the 27uf caps , it won't play music before end of may ... (it was backorderd for one week on the site where i bought all the stuff but in reality it's end of may ...). On the other hand, i have time to go slowly and pay attention to finition...
i wanted to make for each loudspeaker a diy 3 spiked feet for the look and the possible inclination. i'll show photos. it will be removable if not necessary.
I'm eager to hear how it sound !!
i wanted to make for each loudspeaker a diy 3 spiked feet for the look and the possible inclination. i'll show photos. it will be removable if not necessary.
I'm eager to hear how it sound !!
Hi guys, I want to ask for an advice on the low end.
I'm running a FAST with TG9FD10-04 and SB23NRXS45-8 in a sealed box (full specs here). Happy as a clam and with no shortage of lows due to convenient room mode between brick walls.
Now the problem is that we're moving to a new place and the speakers will be placed far from walls (which are wood/plaster rather than brick), so no bass boost for me, effectively limiting the useful output to 80Hz or so.
All this leads me to some sort of subwoofer solution. So far I've considered a conventional cube shaped sub but the aesthetics committee isn't fond of the idea. The other option is to add two boxes beneath the speakers that would double as stands, effectively creating floorstanders. I've modeled some very nice responses from 8" drivers (SB23MFCL45-4) in 25-30l boxes with two opposing 10" PRs. Should hit 30hz at 100dB just fine (attached) and would visually blend in with existing speakers well.
From your experience, am I on the right path and do you have any tips on where to cross sub with a FAST/WAW? 60Hz? 100Hz? Harsch or a conventional LR24 would do? I still have 2 unused channels on DCX2496 so almost any topology can be realized.
Thank you in advance!
I'm running a FAST with TG9FD10-04 and SB23NRXS45-8 in a sealed box (full specs here). Happy as a clam and with no shortage of lows due to convenient room mode between brick walls.
Now the problem is that we're moving to a new place and the speakers will be placed far from walls (which are wood/plaster rather than brick), so no bass boost for me, effectively limiting the useful output to 80Hz or so.
All this leads me to some sort of subwoofer solution. So far I've considered a conventional cube shaped sub but the aesthetics committee isn't fond of the idea. The other option is to add two boxes beneath the speakers that would double as stands, effectively creating floorstanders. I've modeled some very nice responses from 8" drivers (SB23MFCL45-4) in 25-30l boxes with two opposing 10" PRs. Should hit 30hz at 100dB just fine (attached) and would visually blend in with existing speakers well.
From your experience, am I on the right path and do you have any tips on where to cross sub with a FAST/WAW? 60Hz? 100Hz? Harsch or a conventional LR24 would do? I still have 2 unused channels on DCX2496 so almost any topology can be realized.
Thank you in advance!
Attachments
Hi Wxn,
Sounds like a neat solution and with DSP, you can make it work I think. 80Hz is low enough to not require localization of speaker and sub to be perfect. But as speaker stands it can’t get much better. XO is a good place to be. Should sound good.
Alternatively, make the TL version. No sub needed.
Sounds like a neat solution and with DSP, you can make it work I think. 80Hz is low enough to not require localization of speaker and sub to be perfect. But as speaker stands it can’t get much better. XO is a good place to be. Should sound good.
Alternatively, make the TL version. No sub needed.
Hi Wxn,
Sounds like a neat solution and with DSP, you can make it work I think. 80Hz is low enough to not require localization of speaker and sub to be perfect. But as speaker stands it can’t get much better. XO is a good place to be. Should sound good.
Alternatively, make the TL version. No sub needed.
Thanks, TL version is not out of the question but I haven't built one and they always seemed very fiddly. Maybe.
Also I made a sketch of how I imagine those stands/subs, any thoughts?
Attachments
This TL is not fiddly from the many successful builds we have. But design is for RS225-8, not SB23NRXS45-8.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- 10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor