the cardboard whiskey bottle container also does it, though you need to break the mode of the standalone diameter with something else inside. Just if like me your hands are not good skilled enough.... That's what I use for my 10F with an orange caoutchouc ring for glass tins to isolate it from the front bafle... you still can put the foam inside to break the mode due to the less good more regular shape vs the dager.
Greetings, XRK971:
It's been quite a while. I'm finally ready to get started on building the speakers, as the Amp is proving a little more challenging than I expected (I'll be reusing my ancient GFA-555 to power the speakers until I get the amp design sorted out).
Just wanted to check if the project was still considered a good bang-for-the-buck (especially considering plywood prices these days), and that the spec'd speakers were still the most appropriate ones to use.
As always, thanks for your generosity with your time.
It's been quite a while. I'm finally ready to get started on building the speakers, as the Amp is proving a little more challenging than I expected (I'll be reusing my ancient GFA-555 to power the speakers until I get the amp design sorted out).
Just wanted to check if the project was still considered a good bang-for-the-buck (especially considering plywood prices these days), and that the spec'd speakers were still the most appropriate ones to use.
As always, thanks for your generosity with your time.
@kking
I built these speakers but not 100pc to spec. I used old wharfedale boxes. Approx 20 litres gross and so a little undersize and probably thinner walled than to spec. They are the best sounding speakers I've had in my system. Don't doubt their ability....you will be very happy with them
I built these speakers but not 100pc to spec. I used old wharfedale boxes. Approx 20 litres gross and so a little undersize and probably thinner walled than to spec. They are the best sounding speakers I've had in my system. Don't doubt their ability....you will be very happy with them
Hi Kking,
These speakers won’t disappoint as jimk04 has said. If you make the TL version, they are even more impressive and won’t require a subwoofer. The woofer is critical and you really cannot substitute it. The full range can be swapped for other 8ohm drivers. However, I highly recommend the 10F or B80.
Cheers,
X
@jimk04: Thanks for the endorsement and kind words!
These speakers won’t disappoint as jimk04 has said. If you make the TL version, they are even more impressive and won’t require a subwoofer. The woofer is critical and you really cannot substitute it. The full range can be swapped for other 8ohm drivers. However, I highly recommend the 10F or B80.
Cheers,
X
@jimk04: Thanks for the endorsement and kind words!
Sorry, allow me to be more specific.
When I search for RS225 on DaytonAudio, besides the -4 and -8 versions (4 ohm and 8 ohm), there is now a P version of each (for paper cone). I don't recall if the P is the new one or if the other (aluminum cone) is the new one.
Also, the Scanspeak Discovery 10F on MadisonSound has two parts listed: an 8424G and a 4424G. I presume the first number is the resistance, and that 424G is the model. Does that sound correct?
Just trying to make sure I get the right parts. Thanks.
When I search for RS225 on DaytonAudio, besides the -4 and -8 versions (4 ohm and 8 ohm), there is now a P version of each (for paper cone). I don't recall if the P is the new one or if the other (aluminum cone) is the new one.
Also, the Scanspeak Discovery 10F on MadisonSound has two parts listed: an 8424G and a 4424G. I presume the first number is the resistance, and that 424G is the model. Does that sound correct?
Just trying to make sure I get the right parts. Thanks.
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The 4 ohms of the 10F is a little flatter at transition around 1200 hz, but the design is made with an impedance integration between speakers you must follow cause it's not made by luck.
If you start your own design, the 4 ohms could have interest if you have an idea in mind. But following someone else design, it took care about spl matching, bafle step loss and you can not substitute the same model with a different impedance.
If you start your own design, the 4 ohms could have interest if you have an idea in mind. But following someone else design, it took care about spl matching, bafle step loss and you can not substitute the same model with a different impedance.
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Yes RS225-8 aluminum cone only. For 10F it is 8ohm version. You can try other 8ohm full range drivers and adjust resistors to level match. But the heart of this speaker is the RS225-8. There actually is not a substitute for it by any other manufacturer or at any price. It is unique in its specs and capabilities as far as I can tell.
Smooth flat wide response up to 3500Hz. Controlled minimal breakup at 7kHz. 7mm Xmax. Low distortion with copper shorting ring. Low Fs. Moderate QTs. Relatively low Vas. Can cross at 1kHz with first order XO.
Smooth flat wide response up to 3500Hz. Controlled minimal breakup at 7kHz. 7mm Xmax. Low distortion with copper shorting ring. Low Fs. Moderate QTs. Relatively low Vas. Can cross at 1kHz with first order XO.
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It might possibly work but it already has a few issues that make it not as good as the less expensive RS225-8.
1. only 85dB sensitive vs 87dB
2. 5mm Xmax vs 7mm
3. 133 cm2 vs 213 cm2 cone area
4. Fs of 34Hz vs 28Hz
5. Peaks at 1.4kHz and 2.9khz, in the prime regions of audibility.
Plus you would have to redo the XO from scratch.
I am not sure I see any reason to switch from RS225-8 to the Esoteric series ES180TiA-8.
1. only 85dB sensitive vs 87dB
2. 5mm Xmax vs 7mm
3. 133 cm2 vs 213 cm2 cone area
4. Fs of 34Hz vs 28Hz
5. Peaks at 1.4kHz and 2.9khz, in the prime regions of audibility.
Plus you would have to redo the XO from scratch.
I am not sure I see any reason to switch from RS225-8 to the Esoteric series ES180TiA-8.
It is remarkably smooth, even smoother than the variations in the original design, so yes.. and even though they shouldn't be an issue, those two peaks above the crossover frequency are simple in nature and should be easy to fix.
The neodymium magnets might also be good for low distortion, though for some it may not be a big deal.
I guess I should revise my answer to say that this driver does appear to be well behaved and if you are looking for a more compact cabinet, that perhaps in a bass reflex, will get you the deeper bass needed, it can probably work. However, a new XO would have to be developed. The driver has a smaller Vas and nice mid Qts that will allow use in many alignements including BR, TL, and MLTL. The small peaks will requite a few more (probably at least 4) components to tame smooth.