100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplifier

???? I'm a bit confuse Terry look at this image :confused:


Juan
 

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I know it looks bad in the picture but the lead was not touching. I shouldn't have left them long but I plan to replace them when I get the right cap so I left the leads on so I could reused them later. Anyway, They were not touching. I went ahead and trimmed the leads but the issue remains. I just got home so I will have time now to sit and write down all my voltages on a schematic and hopefully make sense of what is going on. If I still haven't solved it I will post the schematic for further review.

Thanks, Terry
 
OK I have been over and over the board. I just can't seem to find where the negative voltage is coming from. I am attaching a schematic hoping that an answer is apparent to one of you.
Troubled board voltages are in red
Working board voltages are in blue

Here is what I have tried so far.

Replaced Q8 no change
Replaced Q9 twice. No change
Replaced Q10. No change
Replaced Q11, Q13. No change.


Here are a few things I noticed

vbe for all transistors is between .558V and .630V

The bias adjustment behaves normally on the troubled board

All voltages match between the two boards from Q1-Q7 except for the bases of Q1&Q2. Those are within a few mV. Obviously there is a large drop across R11 on the troubled board.

Thanks, Terry
 

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I hope you guys are remembering to ground the input ground to the star ground, this connection is usually included most pcb design on other amplifiers, but in the original version of the AX14 APEX decided to run it as a discrete wire.

Maybe replace C13 with a 10R resistor, for initial testing, that should connect input ground to main ground on the pcb itself.

Regards
 
Yes it sort of looks that way but have gone over the board several times looking for shorts. I have not been able to find any. I will check some more tomorry.

Thanks' Terry

Power off, measure resistance Q8 c/e. If shorted, pull Q8 out, measure again. If still shorted it is probably solder drop or something.


Those transistors you replaced, are they ok?
 
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I found it. Thanks for everyone's help. AndrewT got me looking at Q2 again and I finally saw it. I don't know how I missed it but the 22K NFB resistor was not soldered at one end. A touch of solder and everything is beautiful. Finally I can play some music through it and do some comparisons. I'll let you know how it sounds very soon.

Blessings, Terry
 

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It's alive! Playing music. Just through my test speakers so far but sounds very nice. Dead quiet and .001mv offset on both channels. Pretty impressive so far. I have a question about bias. I didn't have any 0R33 resistors so I used 0R68. If I had read more of the thread I would have seen the some guys used 0R22. I have plenty of those so if necessary I can change them. Anyway, with the 0R68 I have it set at 48mv across a single resistor. Is this in the ball park? Any issues with using 0R68 for the emitters?

Here's a pic of it playing on +-47V rails.

Blessings, Terry
 

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really nice Terry :D I'm glad you found out the little problem, hey about bias I set my boards to 15mV across reading from the 0.33 5W if you are going to use 0.22 it be like 10mV +/- setting up, giving about 45mA I means depends how you want it, some people like it to run a bit hotter or colder, so maybe yeah 45mA to 50mA

hey quick question Terry the mounting of the TO-3 was aligning pretty well ?


Regards
Juan
 
Terry, if you place two 0R68 resistors in parallel, it will be very close to the desired value (0R33). Sorry, maybe you know that...

Yes I know. I have some 0R33 coming. The 0R68 seem to be working fine so I'll probably just leave those for now. I plan to build a couple more different versions since I have plenty of boards. I want to try one with NJW3281/1302 outputs. I'm also going to try using just the IPS section for a Slewmaster. Should be interesting. I might even try throwing some MOSFETs on the backend. Fun Stuff!

Hi Juan,

The TO-3s fit fine. No problems.