Many thanks for sharing your experiences!
Any word on Eminence that could be shared or is it also a mixed bag as with many manufacturers?
Looking at their coaxes right now but still being sceptical because they are soo much cheaper than Faital, B&C etc.
Thanks in anticipation!
Jens
^ their coax are cheaper because there is no compression drivers included: you have to buy them separetely.
Thanks but I do know. The difference is not big but say a Faital 10HX230 is still quite a bit more than the Em.10CX with say a D220Ti.
Sorry, for the OT Graham; now back to topic!
Personally I just never know what to think of Eminence.
That doesn't mean they are bad.
But price/performance is a bit like Celestion.
Especially in EU they seem to be a bit more pricey.
Their designs look and feel dated (also spec wise)
Which gives a bit of vibe that they kind of hang-on, on old knowledge and experience.
(I could be completely wrong in that!!!)
To be honest that is pure a feel thing. So not objective, don't take that as the right answer at all.
I have never seen a known manufacturer that uses Eminence.
In the end it's not always about what is better, but more what you can buy for a certain price.
Even more so when that is from a very well known brand.
Which I totally admit is maybe very unfair.
About their coax.
Like said before, they come without a CD, so you have to add the costs.
Also compared to B&C COAX units, it makes the whole thing VERY heavy en clunky.
I don't know what you want to use it for?
Usually these are meant to be used as floor-monitors.
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The WLM Diva uses the Eminence 10CX, a speaker over 4000€.
It was also used in the Adire HE10.1 kit.
Also featured in an old DIY kit from a german magazine Klang+Ton (CT235.)
Ampslab did several versions with the Selenium D220Ti (Osprey, Osprey-BR, Osprey with 12CX).
Home hifi. Want to try a more dynamic high efficiency speaker and liking fullrange speakers but not being impressed by their treble performance, this could be a way forward.
Eventually to be used open baffle with a woofer.
If I don´t get along with the ragged treble response (due to the short horn) I can always make another iteration with a proper horn and use the 10CX as woofer.
I was more talking about QSC, L' Acoustics, dB Technologies, Sound Projects, D&B, Meyer
I have seen Eminence in bass guitar stuff, and the smaller systems etc.
The treble performance of most COAX units isn't great to begin with.
That is just the compromise between having a good stiff cone structure vs a waveguide/horn that works for the compression driver.
If you're looking for good hifi performance, it wouldn't be my advice.
Just stick to a separate waveguide, the vertical directivity is less important anyway I think.
Yeah, you´re probably right!
You guys convinced me to try a horn instead of a coax.
Wasn´t really ready to proceed so early but there was this guy selling HF108 & RCF H100 so I´m in the same boat!
Will probably measure/evaluate the horn on an open baffle together with a Peerless 830669 and a minidsp. (will post them here of course)
If that´s going somewhere, the woofer will probably end up being a Faital too.
Hi all!
Sorry for the radio silence, I've been making some other things to helkp me get one with my projects - router tables aren't as simple as they look - perfectly flat is a PITA when you make the table bed yourself (and don't get me started on keeping the fence flat). Also, another speaker project that has a little more urgency.
Anyway...
I have plumped for the RCF H100 so joensd, I would be interested to hear what you do/make of/think of the combo. Keep us updated.
The horn isn't the most expensive part so I can always swap it about but I need to make a frame for it to give it a bit more rigidit.
Also, I keep trying to mentally engineer some sort of tilt/height adjustment rig with knobs and slots but I keep on coming back to the good old fashion adjustable blocks of birch ply under the CD. If anyone has some good exampes of something like this I'd be interest!
I'll take measurements of my Peerless DFM CD on the H100 and update soon.
Sorry for the radio silence, I've been making some other things to helkp me get one with my projects - router tables aren't as simple as they look - perfectly flat is a PITA when you make the table bed yourself (and don't get me started on keeping the fence flat). Also, another speaker project that has a little more urgency.
Anyway...
I have plumped for the RCF H100 so joensd, I would be interested to hear what you do/make of/think of the combo. Keep us updated.
The horn isn't the most expensive part so I can always swap it about but I need to make a frame for it to give it a bit more rigidit.
Also, I keep trying to mentally engineer some sort of tilt/height adjustment rig with knobs and slots but I keep on coming back to the good old fashion adjustable blocks of birch ply under the CD. If anyone has some good exampes of something like this I'd be interest!
I'll take measurements of my Peerless DFM CD on the H100 and update soon.
Birch plywood blocks under the CD works fine. attached is H100 on a birch plywood block stand with dampening t-shirt 😀 ps. The magnet is handy for holding xo parts.
you could make a clamp from plywood i think. Roughly, square piece, route a hole diameter of the driver in the middle, cut in half and grind some of from both. Drill and put bolts through the side to clamp the driver in between the halves. Solve problems as you go, never built one. Or make onlu U shape block, lay CD on it and tighten down with a rope. imagination is the limit!🙂
you could make a clamp from plywood i think. Roughly, square piece, route a hole diameter of the driver in the middle, cut in half and grind some of from both. Drill and put bolts through the side to clamp the driver in between the halves. Solve problems as you go, never built one. Or make onlu U shape block, lay CD on it and tighten down with a rope. imagination is the limit!🙂
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Hurry up with that final construction, you might need that sweater when the winter kicks in!
I sure will. Only made a quick measurement so far which doesn´t seem correct so I didn´t post it. Let you know how it goes hopefully soon.
So many H100 measurements on one thread I'll add mine if you don't mind. It is HF10AK with the H100, ~10uF cap and l-pad in front. Level is not calibrated. Both vertical and horizontal responses measured on 15 degree intervals 0-180. The last attachment is horizontal response normalized to 0 deg.
I haven't been able to make as smooth looking xo transition to 8" driver in VituixCAD with the H100 as I could with smaller STH100. I think H100 is better match for 10" woofer. H100 is about constant directivity, STH100 has rising DI. I don't comment which horn yields better system since haven't compared side by side, both work fine.
edit. normalized polar maps added, looks fine.
I haven't been able to make as smooth looking xo transition to 8" driver in VituixCAD with the H100 as I could with smaller STH100. I think H100 is better match for 10" woofer. H100 is about constant directivity, STH100 has rising DI. I don't comment which horn yields better system since haven't compared side by side, both work fine.
edit. normalized polar maps added, looks fine.
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Cheers for the measurements tmuikku.
Yeah, I am tempted to try the H100 with the 8PR200 boxes but not sure I can bare the faff if it isn't likely to be worth it.
One thing that I've been wondering about the HF10ak is the resonance peak around 1900hz not audible as a ring? Or at least measurable?
Yeah, I am tempted to try the H100 with the 8PR200 boxes but not sure I can bare the faff if it isn't likely to be worth it.
One thing that I've been wondering about the HF10ak is the resonance peak around 1900hz not audible as a ring? Or at least measurable?
Hard to say, the valley on the graphs can be EQ:d flat since it is uniform to all directions. Easy with DSP, hard with passive xo. I don't think it is audible, I just fill it in with EQ and tune the boost by ear. I would have to measure the finished speaker to see how the response is with DSP but I'm not able to do that currently, need XLR - rca cables or wait for new amps to arrive so I can use my new DSP and audio interface all together.
With my old speaker prototype I was always uneasy with the mid range, something was not right. I think it was mostly the mid driver and enclosure fault because it feels much better now with new prototype enclosure, same driver though. Need to get accustomed to the current setup to be able to tune it better. Will buy another set of compression drivers and print a waveguide at some point, but new amplifiers and DSP first to get rid of the chinese ADAU+3116 noisegenerating setup. The progress is slow, too much responsibilities 🙂
ps. got better system simulated today after the previous post. I just had to lower the xo more to get smoother transition with mid + horn. Would need bigger capacitor to get response a bit lower still. I have to check out my old russian PIO stash if there is any. I've been into DSP so I don't have crossover parts bin 🙂
With my old speaker prototype I was always uneasy with the mid range, something was not right. I think it was mostly the mid driver and enclosure fault because it feels much better now with new prototype enclosure, same driver though. Need to get accustomed to the current setup to be able to tune it better. Will buy another set of compression drivers and print a waveguide at some point, but new amplifiers and DSP first to get rid of the chinese ADAU+3116 noisegenerating setup. The progress is slow, too much responsibilities 🙂
ps. got better system simulated today after the previous post. I just had to lower the xo more to get smoother transition with mid + horn. Would need bigger capacitor to get response a bit lower still. I have to check out my old russian PIO stash if there is any. I've been into DSP so I don't have crossover parts bin 🙂
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Did another quick measurement with RCF H100 + HF108 but something still ain´t right. Looks like one of the samples has a defect or so though I still hope it doesn´t! Unscrewed it from the horn and back on but no change to the FR.
Will get back with more measurements when I find the fault (or not..).
Oh forgot: this is with a 24dB-HP-filter (BW) at 800Hz.
Will get back with more measurements when I find the fault (or not..).
Oh forgot: this is with a 24dB-HP-filter (BW) at 800Hz.
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Graham,
have a look at the Beyma SM-110/N, it performs stronger in a small 30 liter box than Faital and still has lower Mms than the Monacor that was suggested before (and that does simulate almost identical to the Oberton 10B200). I will observe your thread as I am currently downsizing my 12-inch + CD approach to 10-inch.
have a look at the Beyma SM-110/N, it performs stronger in a small 30 liter box than Faital and still has lower Mms than the Monacor that was suggested before (and that does simulate almost identical to the Oberton 10B200). I will observe your thread as I am currently downsizing my 12-inch + CD approach to 10-inch.
timuikku - cool, keep us updated on that!
joensd - hope it works out. Wish I had some advice for you, maybe start a thread about it and get clinical on it.
sheeple - cheers! the cheapskate in me had looked at these. a 40L cabinet is doable but it might put my wife in wince mode. The price really is attractive though!
joensd - hope it works out. Wish I had some advice for you, maybe start a thread about it and get clinical on it.
sheeple - cheers! the cheapskate in me had looked at these. a 40L cabinet is doable but it might put my wife in wince mode. The price really is attractive though!
