Hi guys ,
I'm an imbecile with electronics and hard-wired crossover elements ,this is why I would like to ask for help.
My woofer set up contains two DaytoAudio rs225 wired in parallel to get 4 Ohm`s . For one of the woofers, I would like to apply 1 order crossover limiting woofer to 200 Hz. I'm using active 4way crossover and would like simplify to 3 -way.
I guess, the main question is what type of coil should be used for the best result ?
Thank you in advance for participating 🙂
I'm an imbecile with electronics and hard-wired crossover elements ,this is why I would like to ask for help.
My woofer set up contains two DaytoAudio rs225 wired in parallel to get 4 Ohm`s . For one of the woofers, I would like to apply 1 order crossover limiting woofer to 200 Hz. I'm using active 4way crossover and would like simplify to 3 -way.
I guess, the main question is what type of coil should be used for the best result ?
- Air core coils
- Ferrite core coils
- Copper foil coils
- Iron core coils
- Litz wire wax coils
- Toroidal coils
Thank you in advance for participating 🙂
https://sound-au.com/lr-passive.htm
L = ( 0.159 × Z ) / fx
Where:
L = inductance of the coil in Henrys
fx = crossover frequency in hertz
Z = actual impedance of the speaker in ohm at the crossover frequency
Ferrite give the lowest losses but may distort if you want extreme volume,
Air core give the lowest distortion but are much more expensive with suitably low resistance
Re:'Each driver is 8 Ohm's' - no, look at the manufactuers data sheet and get the actual impedance value at your chosen crossover frequency
L = ( 0.159 × Z ) / fx
Where:
L = inductance of the coil in Henrys
fx = crossover frequency in hertz
Z = actual impedance of the speaker in ohm at the crossover frequency
Ferrite give the lowest losses but may distort if you want extreme volume,
Air core give the lowest distortion but are much more expensive with suitably low resistance
Re:'Each driver is 8 Ohm's' - no, look at the manufactuers data sheet and get the actual impedance value at your chosen crossover frequency
Is this already a fully passive crossover?
If so pix of the XO and a circuit diagram would help.
It's not as easy as simply adding in one coil to one woofer s the components on the other woofer will need to change to match the new single driver impedance
It won't be a 3-Way; it will be a 3.5Way crossover if passive and in my limited experience doing it digitally/ actively is the easiest way and if Bi-Amping/Tri-Amping it is much cheaper to do it at the top end as components are smaller and much cheaper for the mid to tweeter cross. Passive components for bass frequencies that are of sufficient wire size to not add too much resistance are not cheap.
If so pix of the XO and a circuit diagram would help.
It's not as easy as simply adding in one coil to one woofer s the components on the other woofer will need to change to match the new single driver impedance
It won't be a 3-Way; it will be a 3.5Way crossover if passive and in my limited experience doing it digitally/ actively is the easiest way and if Bi-Amping/Tri-Amping it is much cheaper to do it at the top end as components are smaller and much cheaper for the mid to tweeter cross. Passive components for bass frequencies that are of sufficient wire size to not add too much resistance are not cheap.
I like to use the closed box simulator for the box size and derive the impedance from that.Re:'Each driver is 8 Ohm's' - no, look at the manufactuers data sheet and get the actual impedance value at your chosen crossover frequency
http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Simulators/ClosedBox
Diagram shows L1 on the bottom leg, to apply only to the bottom bass driver, no?re:'when wired parallel" - use an inductor for the combined total actual impedance
My simplified, easy-to-remember formulae:
1st-order XO -6dB per octave i.e. halved (driver impedance in ohm)
high-pass-filter=-3dB@(160khz/imp)/uF
low-pass-filter=-3dB@(160hz*imp)/mH
(e.g. imp=8 HPF@20khz/uF LPF@1280/mH, typically set to equal before tweaking by ear
Thank You, Pete McK . Will work on it, must get manufacturer's data sheet. Will be continued..........Re:'Each driver is 8 Ohm's' - no, look at the manufactuers data sheet and get the actual impedance value at your chosen crossover frequency
Thank you for participating "Moondog 55", 😌 I'm using fully Digital Crossover (active speaker system). My goal is, one of the woofers to make 50% passive and instead dedicating two crossover channels and two amplifiers to use one channel and one amplifier.Is this already a fully passive crossover?
If so pix of the XO and a circuit diagram would help.
It's not as easy as simply adding in one coil to one woofer s the components on the other woofer will need to change to match the new single driver impedance
It won't be a 3-Way; it will be a 3.5Way crossover if passive and in my limited experience doing it digitally/ actively is the easiest way and if Bi-Amping/Tri-Amping it is much cheaper to do it at the top end as components are smaller and much cheaper for the mid to tweeter cross. Passive components for bass frequencies that are of sufficient wire size to not add too much resistance are not cheap.
Thanks for tip, where an inductor should be ? Inductor, same thing like graphite doughnut ?re:'when wired parallel" - use an inductor for the combined total actual impedance
An inductor should be used like this ?
Yes, L1 applied just to one driver.Diagram shows L1 on the bottom leg, to apply only to the bottom bass driver, no?
Looks like 7Ohm according to manufacturer's data sheet.Thank You, Pete McK . Will work on it, must get manufacturer's data sheet. Will be continued.
I can get L1 value for 8 Ohm and for 4 Ohm drivers. What value should be for 7 Ohm ?
I need low pass filter...so driver is 8 Ohm cut of frequency 200 Hz. So what mH coil I should use ?My simplified, easy-to-remember formulae:
1st-order XO -6dB per octave i.e. halved (driver impedance in ohm)
high-pass-filter=-3dB@(160khz/imp)/uF
low-pass-filter=-3dB@(160hz*imp)/mH
(e.g. imp=8 HPF@20khz/uF LPF@1280/mH, typically set to equal before tweaking by ear
Have mentioned , I'm an imbecile with electronics and hard-wired crossover elements ?
Dyton audio rs225-is not in there, not among loudspeaker base drivers. I need information on L1 in 1order crossover for driver ,not a box size..I like to use the closed box simulator for the box size and derive the impedance from that.
http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Simulators/ClosedBox
Nominal 8ohm~6.4mH, impedance curve 7ohm~5.6mH, so I'd suggest 6mH ferrite core (Not air core which would be huge and much too high resistance.)I need low pass filter...so driver is 8 Ohm cut of frequency 200 Hz. So what mH coil I should use ?
Have mentioned , I'm an imbecile with electronics and hard-wired crossover elements ?
😍👍 Thank youNominal 8ohm~6.4mH, impedance curve 7ohm~5.6mH, so I'd suggest 6mH ferrite core (Not air core which would be huge and much too high resistance.)
If the RS225 share the volume inside, better stuff that volume good. Otherwise the lower crossed woofer will transmit a lot of the out of phase signal from the other. I would also apply a 2nd order topology, just to use the motor braking.
Re: "What value should be for 7 Ohm ?" - use the formula in post #2.
Re: 'where an inductor should be ?" - if wire as your original diagram, L1 is it
Note that, as wchang has pointed out, my response in post #4 is incorrect if your original wiring diagram is used.
Re: 'where an inductor should be ?" - if wire as your original diagram, L1 is it
Note that, as wchang has pointed out, my response in post #4 is incorrect if your original wiring diagram is used.
What?Otherwise the lower crossed woofer will transmit a lot of the out of phase signal from the other.
The woofers will be in phase with each other. The one woofer will play higher in frequency only, and not be out of phase. This is in essence becoming a X.5-way design.
Being the higher xover for both woofers exists actively, then there is no need to go 2nd order and change their phase relationship.
I use active, 4-way using 3 stereo amplifiers, there is no way going passive on the first woofer makes sense to me.
If you need deeper bass perhaps you need to get a bigger set of woofers or drop the level of the midrange and tweeters a few dB
If you need deeper bass perhaps you need to get a bigger set of woofers or drop the level of the midrange and tweeters a few dB
Thank you, a pipe is 25 liters in volume to share by both divers and this configuration works beautify.... 30 Hz reproduction sound as clean as a spring water..no complaints in there ☺️If the RS225 share the volume inside, better stuff that volume good. Otherwise the lower crossed woofer will transmit a lot of the out of phase signal from the other. I would also apply a 2nd order topology, just to use the motor braking.
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