Hello again, a long time inactive with many life changes.
I have a question for the experts. I printed this Tritonia. After almost a year of not printing in 3D, I used the piece as an experiment to configure the machine. I didn't think it would turn out with what I started with, scrap PETG filament. The thing is, after 19 hours, the piece turned out. It's not perfect, but nothing a little filler can't fix.
I intend to solidify it. I left one side open in some places to pour the filler. I had a bad experience with epoxy resin with some filler. So the question is, what method or type of material have you used successfully?
The next question, since I haven't printed the adapter yet: Can I take the measurements empty, or should I make it solid first? Will there be much of a difference? Perhaps it's better to measure both and compare...
As a good carpenter, I still don't understand anything about this acoustic world.
Thanks, Marcel, for your inspiration.
I have a question for the experts. I printed this Tritonia. After almost a year of not printing in 3D, I used the piece as an experiment to configure the machine. I didn't think it would turn out with what I started with, scrap PETG filament. The thing is, after 19 hours, the piece turned out. It's not perfect, but nothing a little filler can't fix.
I intend to solidify it. I left one side open in some places to pour the filler. I had a bad experience with epoxy resin with some filler. So the question is, what method or type of material have you used successfully?
The next question, since I haven't printed the adapter yet: Can I take the measurements empty, or should I make it solid first? Will there be much of a difference? Perhaps it's better to measure both and compare...
As a good carpenter, I still don't understand anything about this acoustic world.
Thanks, Marcel, for your inspiration.
That's nice. Is it a somehow modified Tritonia-F? I woudn't have thought about print it this way, but it seems it's quite possible without issues.
As for any additional strenghtening or dampening, it's really up to you 🙂 After mounting it to an enclosure, I don't think it will resonate much. You can certainly measure it as it is. I would only give it some coating first.
As for any additional strenghtening or dampening, it's really up to you 🙂 After mounting it to an enclosure, I don't think it will resonate much. You can certainly measure it as it is. I would only give it some coating first.
I used a Tritonia configuration you posted earlier as a base, then made some modifications and exported the curves to Fusion (what a great job you've done, it works so well). Then, in Fusion, I created the shape and motor adapter.
Printing it vertically wasn't without its problems, one with warping and another with inertia, which caused the supports to come loose from the bed (a little superglue and off you go).
To try to avoid warping, I designed an elephant's foot to give it better adhesion, with relative success (PETG has a lot of shrinkage). If the measurements are correct for next printing, I'll modify the design to give it better stability and adhesion, or perhaps try another, less critical material.
Printing it vertically wasn't without its problems, one with warping and another with inertia, which caused the supports to come loose from the bed (a little superglue and off you go).
To try to avoid warping, I designed an elephant's foot to give it better adhesion, with relative success (PETG has a lot of shrinkage). If the measurements are correct for next printing, I'll modify the design to give it better stability and adhesion, or perhaps try another, less critical material.
After I fill and sand this a520g petal, I’m gonna try my hand at epoxy resin casting. Any tips are appreciated!
I’m using the prints to make silicone molds, then making epoxy casts in the mold. I think I will make the throat and adapter plates solid epoxy and I will use glass microspheres for filler in the petals.
Are there any non-gated (or large gate) measurements of the A400G2 with the EXT adapter and a 1.4" driver? (preferably 18sound ND3)
Trying to figure out the actual low end knee which is lost with the gating.
Trying to figure out the actual low end knee which is lost with the gating.
Does the Cults download include the Ath script? This looks like it could be a good fit for a build I'm planning out for a TD-4002. Would be CNC'd from wood.
Spheres aren't cheap. Why not just stretch the epoxy with sand, way cheaper just as strong.
That feels like a bit of an oversimplification. Dipoles are significantly more directional than monopoles — even at low frequencies — with a directivity index around 4.8 dB versus 0 dB.
As a result, they inject approximately 67% less acoustic power into the room’s modal field.
Monopoles can be optimized, sure, but dipoles inherently reduce modal excitation by design, not just by placement or DSP.
Because there’s been studies on the acoustic effects of microspheres showing positive results for dampening of unwanted resonances and also a decent weight reduction. The cost is not that significant really. I found a 5 quart tub of the stuff for 35$ on amazon. It is recommended to mix up to 40%.
Don’t miss cork, a lot cheaper than microspheres unless you buy it in bulk.
I always reference this video to understand what different fillers add to the mix.
And I probably already showed this before.
But I made a series of tests using dry filler in a vinyl hose and added the epoxy from the top to evaluate different epoxies penetration and hardening time and so on.
Infusion epoxy and slow hardener from https://www.easycomposites.eu/in2-epoxy-infusion-resin together with sand with grain size 0,4-0,8mm works really good. And the big thermal mass of sand is beneficial.
It’s a lot easier than filling a slurry thru a small hole.
Another innovation I tried is adding a separating wall with micro perforation. Sand goes in one compartment and epoxy in the other smaller one.
I always reference this video to understand what different fillers add to the mix.
And I probably already showed this before.
But I made a series of tests using dry filler in a vinyl hose and added the epoxy from the top to evaluate different epoxies penetration and hardening time and so on.
Infusion epoxy and slow hardener from https://www.easycomposites.eu/in2-epoxy-infusion-resin together with sand with grain size 0,4-0,8mm works really good. And the big thermal mass of sand is beneficial.
It’s a lot easier than filling a slurry thru a small hole.
Another innovation I tried is adding a separating wall with micro perforation. Sand goes in one compartment and epoxy in the other smaller one.
I'm assembling the T520 Rosso adapter for A460G and confused about the 'Part 2' piece & how this comes together — If I insert part 2 where the diagram shows, then it hits the driver and doesn't sit flush. If it's not inserted then there's a small gap between driver & adapter. What's the function of this piece? What am I missing?
The example you show of cork in epoxy looks cool. Was it easy to remove the bubbles?
No work at all with the epoxy I linked to.
Fill the volume with cork tap it so it settles and fill the empty space as much as possible.
Ad epoxy, wait, ad more as it flows down and displaces the air.
The type of epoxy used is the key for it to work. And it's a faster process if you include a channel to the lowest point of the volume you like to fill. So the epoxy is filled from the bottom up.
You might have to top off the highest point after a night of it settling, but this isn’t a huge deal.
Tapping the final product gives a clear indication that it has high internal damping.
Edit: https://www.carbon-connected.de/Gro...ile/Download/CCF94E8FE2F72A4CAB8EAEB1D7EA2708
Only one example of research in using cork to increase the internal damping. There’s plenty if you’re interested in a deep dive.
Fill the volume with cork tap it so it settles and fill the empty space as much as possible.
Ad epoxy, wait, ad more as it flows down and displaces the air.
The type of epoxy used is the key for it to work. And it's a faster process if you include a channel to the lowest point of the volume you like to fill. So the epoxy is filled from the bottom up.
You might have to top off the highest point after a night of it settling, but this isn’t a huge deal.
Tapping the final product gives a clear indication that it has high internal damping.
Edit: https://www.carbon-connected.de/Gro...ile/Download/CCF94E8FE2F72A4CAB8EAEB1D7EA2708
Only one example of research in using cork to increase the internal damping. There’s plenty if you’re interested in a deep dive.
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