3-way to active - Hypex FA253 - learning project

If one starts VCAD with recommended quasi-anechoic 2-ch measured data, measurements carry all resonances and diffractions also off-axis 360deg in 3-D. Only power compression and high spl distortion effect are missing. Then the user gives VCAD xyz figures that represent driver locations in the baffle (X=0 value, distance is in impulse delay of a 2-channel measurement).

It is all in instructions and Help file https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_help_20.html#How_to_start_with_VituixCAD
 
Yesterday I have used the ability to quickly switch between three presets to compare three filter types - LR2, LR4 and LR8 (with everything else being the same). Same crossover points and EQ.

LR2 is much louder (understandably) but kind of busy/messy compared to LR4/8. I strongly preferred LR4/8 over LR2. The subjective difference between LR4 and 8 is smaller and preference is less clear. I think I prefer LR8 for higher clarity.
Did you remember to change the relative polarities between drivers? It gets confusing. I rely on measurement to verify I have it right.
 
That's not a defense of 2nd order by the way. I know the order requires that polarities be flipped on some alignments. I don't even try to remember, I measure to make sure it's right. Adding to the theoretical complexity is there may be differences in the acoustic roll-off compared to the filter roll-off, and also driver alignment. The z of the drivers can affect what polarity should be. The sim will show it, but it has to be programmed into the preset.

I've had a tweeter on one side in the wrong polarity. Sounded odd, but initially I liked it. Probably found the problem a day or two later.
 
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First attempt at EQ - before and after. This is with LR4 filters at 250 and 3k and a LT 60/30Hz. Both speakers playing, mic at listening position.
  • Tried to notch out 34.5Hz, 78Hz, 144Hz, 213Hz and 1kHz with Q6 cuts.
  • Applied wider Q1.4 cut at 1.4kHz
  • There is also a negative high shelf Q0.3 at 1kHz (attempt at 3dB tilt from 100Hz to 20kHz

The room mode peaks seem manageable. Not sure what is gooing on in the 700 to 2k region.

EQ.jpg



Dist.jpg


Dist before eq.jpg
 
2nd order will require you to flip the polarity of the midrange. But it will also be much more sensitive to delay settings. Basically, getting 2nd order correct is much less forgiving. You see it more in commercial speakers because it makes the crossover less expensive.

As for room corrections and EQ. Don't play both speakers at the same time. Play them one at a time from your seating position. Playing them together will produce lots of cancellations that the mic pics up, but is not how you hear. You have two ears, not one.

You can then EQ them individually, or average the responses together in REW, then do the EQ. Just depends on how much time you want to spend here.
------I think you are planning to use a streamer hooked to the speaker, if so individual room correction is probably worth it. I'm using an AVR so I just let that thing do all the room correction.

The only time playing both can be useful is to QC your bass response EQ.
 
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Did you measure both speakers at 1.5m to confirm the wiring polarities are the same, or are the wire colors very obvious to where there's no chance of error?

I know it's tempting to try to reproduce 20hz, and below, but even my sub-woofer plate amp has a non defeatable 18hz high-pass.
 
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Here's what I meant, and a caveat.
Caveat: Building a measured speaker, I have only used 4th (IIR) and then 8th order (FIR) crossovers.
Playing around with 2nd order filters in VCAD, they seemed more sensitive to getting the delay set correctly, to the point that "time alignment" based on the baffle seemed like it made enough difference to be worth it.

Mainly in the off axis response, as the overall dispersion seemed to be narrower.

Playing with 4th order stuff, it seemed like I could get away with more, asymmetrically moving crossover points and whatnot.
 
At this point, measuring two speakers playing same sweep is pointless. Before doing any room eq, semianechoic responses must be OK (as close to ideal as possible one octave past xo). Also polarities and individual "way" responses and delays. Room eq is the ultimately last stage, and it can be done for the whole system in HFD.

It would be very i.portant now to see how each way play...

With LR2, usually the upper driver is set to opposite/inverted polarity.
 
These are just preliminary. My next step in proper setup is measurements in a large space or outdoors.

Thank you for all advice, I read it all and try to incorporate in my next attempt.

But even with this crude adjustment of the most obvious room peaks the improvement is dramatic. The boom is almost completely gone. Nice clean bass.
 
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Hypex FA amps have
Just put a LR4 high pass on the woofer section at 18hz.
There's not much musical content down there anyway, so it's not a concern really unless you plan to use these for home theater.

If you're generally happy with what you have to listen to for now. Then congrats. Getting to actually start listening is a nice reward.
Your next priority should be figuring out a better/ more accurate measurement plan.

If you want something to play and learn about while you build that plan/parts, I suggest you start playing with voicing a little. This is mainly to learn what changing the relative output at different frequencies does to the sound, staging and tambor.

As an example, close you eyes while listening to an acoustic band. Try to visualize where all the players are located. Then turn on an EQ filter at 1khz of -2db, with a Q of like 0.5. See what that does to your perception of the players locations.

This kind of experimentation is easiest to do with a computer EQ app and streaming music since you can get the mouse positioned and click the EQ on and off again in a sort of A/B comparo. Equalizer APO and PEACE are the apps I use for this (they go together).
 
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