I just wrote as it is, if you find that offensive, you gotta work on your soldering skills rather than take it the hard way 🙂
In my opinion, something that is being sold as a product should be done proper, and last for a while, not something riddled with cold solder joints. The latest picture here is done proper, as it should be.
In my opinion, something that is being sold as a product should be done proper, and last for a while, not something riddled with cold solder joints. The latest picture here is done proper, as it should be.
Are you sure that you can distinguish by ear the factory assembly from my manual one? At the same time, during manual assembly, I selected components, in particular capacitors, based on the result. At the same time, as the Factory assembly-…here is done proper, as it should be
I'm sure i can distinguish by looks what something is going to fail on me because of a human error. I'm also sure that would not pass any QC as a product suitable for market. I failed to mention sound anywhere, why focus on that which wasn't mentioned, instead of accepting and working on your soldering skill? Ego is a peculiar beast.
You’re right. I’m sorry about it.I'm also sure that would not pass any QC as a product suitable for market.
Not very good capacitors. Replace with good NPO ceramics.I have a new version of the factory-made board, with gold-plated contacts at a cheaper price, including a power supply of your choice - either with a step-down transformer and stabilizer, or a DC-DC converter, operating from any unipolar voltage source from 4 to 30 Volts.
I have. I slightly changed the design of the printed circuit board.ok, then will you buy it?
I installed good NPO capacitors and a 1uF film capacitor.
Me too. I couldn't find any NPO capacitors for one microfarad. I put two of 0.47. I must admit that this particular capacitor doesn't decide anything about the sound. Well, the rest of the capacitors I used NPO of course. Even if I remove this capacitor, or shorten this chain, the result will not change in the rest of the frequency range.I installed good NPO capacitors and a 1uF film capacitor.
This photo shows X7R capacitors. 1Uf You can use these https://www.rubycon.co.jp/en/products/pmlcap/I have a new version of the factory-made board, with gold-plated contacts at a cheaper price, including a power supply of your choice - either with a step-down transformer and stabilizer, or a DC-DC converter, operating from any unipolar voltage source from 4 to 30 Volts.
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Absolutely right, these capacitors are in the factory assembly, I wrote about the manual assembly shown earlier, there was a nominal value of 2 x 0.47.This photo shows X7R capacitors.
as I wrote before, it is this capacitor in the feedback that does not affect the sound quality, so it was decided to leave it X7
@Nick Sukhov
Your post has been deleted. Despite being told not to keep self promoting via your Patreon site you continue to do so.
If you do not want to share all the construction details on diyAudio then we do not want your posts with self promoting links.
Your post has been deleted. Despite being told not to keep self promoting via your Patreon site you continue to do so.
If you do not want to share all the construction details on diyAudio then we do not want your posts with self promoting links.
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