If the bulb lights up supply voltage will go down. If the bulb is still on after a moment it is a hint for
excess current in the secondary circuit. Even with reduced voltage you can measure at certain points.
If the problem is on both channels check and operate them separately (disconnect the other board).
excess current in the secondary circuit. Even with reduced voltage you can measure at certain points.
If the problem is on both channels check and operate them separately (disconnect the other board).
Did you buy transistors on eBay? I got all fake MJE1503x. Explosive transistors! I do not recommend using the MJ1503x because of the huge hFE differences among NPN/PNP. However, this is only a suggestion to consider after resolving your problem.
Hello. I managed to start the amplifier, the cause was mismatched 15033/32 transistors (that's what I had). I bought a dozen or so more pairs, with the T-7 meter I managed to match them. I'm waiting for the delivery of the DY294 meter. If precise pairing fails, I'll replace it with other transistors. Thanks for the tips and time
Someone in this thread wrote that it is impossible to match NPN/PNP MJE15XXXs, I am using them completely unmatched with a success, however good matching should squeeze the distortion down.
... and now, after you built it? Have you changed your view?It was exactly my point until I built and listened to it
Let me just remind you that "Stereophile" admitts the original NHB-108 has <1% THD, which is horrendous value, and then boasts with zero "temporal distortion". Please, note that "temporal distortion" isn't defined technical term and it has no meaningful unit. It originates from psychology. How they measure it? Do they use that term just for marketing purposes?
I have also built a NHB-108 and also have my opinion.
The design of the Dartzeel is based on a Studer A68 and therefore quite old fashion in design, if you want to build something that holds up to modern designs you can better build Crown XLS 202, 402, or 602 it is much better and more reliable and easier to build.
guys,
I can see that you are Dartzeel haters ;-)
I built several classic gnfb amps, even similar to Crown,
after I heard dartzeel they went to the basement,
I can only confirm, Dartzeel measures bad, sounds wonderful to me, no distortion can be heard.
BTW this Studer is gnfb, similar but different beast.
I can see that you are Dartzeel haters ;-)
I built several classic gnfb amps, even similar to Crown,
after I heard dartzeel they went to the basement,
I can only confirm, Dartzeel measures bad, sounds wonderful to me, no distortion can be heard.
BTW this Studer is gnfb, similar but different beast.
There's an interesting review of a clone here:
Judging by the comments, people rather like it!
Judging by the price, it's probably not a bad idea to buy one and fettle it into DIYdom, rather than buying all of the separate bits 🙂
I'm not a big fan of GNFB, and I also know how clean and open something can sound without it - so I'm not surprised that it's controversial 🙂.
It's still got some feedback anyway, the thing is we don't have feedback of the speaker cones or the air, we have feedback from the speaker terminals - so the NHB-108 just pushes that feedback point back behind the followers... 😀
Judging by the comments, people rather like it!
Judging by the price, it's probably not a bad idea to buy one and fettle it into DIYdom, rather than buying all of the separate bits 🙂
I'm not a big fan of GNFB, and I also know how clean and open something can sound without it - so I'm not surprised that it's controversial 🙂.
It's still got some feedback anyway, the thing is we don't have feedback of the speaker cones or the air, we have feedback from the speaker terminals - so the NHB-108 just pushes that feedback point back behind the followers... 😀
I got one of these and it’s performing really well. I just think it is a little harsh sounding in the midrange, probably a little scooped around 1Khz. Female vocals and saxophones on some recordings can be fatiguing. Any ideas to remedy this?There's an interesting review of a clone here:
Judging by the comments, people rather like it!
Judging by the price, it's probably not a bad idea to buy one and fettle it into DIYdom, rather than buying all of the separate bits 🙂
I'm not a big fan of GNFB, and I also know how clean and open something can sound without it - so I'm not surprised that it's controversial 🙂.
It's still got some feedback anyway, the thing is we don't have feedback of the speaker cones or the air, we have feedback from the speaker terminals - so the NHB-108 just pushes that feedback point back behind the followers... 😀
I’ve already swapped the caps in the power section with Mundorf MLytic 10.000uF and replaced all connectors with better gold plated copper ones, all with good results.
Has anyone tried driving these with 60-0-60 DC? I find myself with a 43-0-43 SAC toroid spare.
I bought the above mentioned amp as well and have listened to it on three different speakers - the result has always been the same: to my ears very pleasing, no harshness at all, open and extended highs, exellent bass (not too "dry"), great holographic sound stage - hence: the best amp I have ever owned (and that includes a variety of highly regarded tube and solid state amps) - but of course YMMV 😉. BTW: build quality is very good.
What about this one?? I just got it yesterday ... running it in, i am hearing.sounds from directions that seem new...
I just found this on AliExpress:
AU$1,155.27 | HI-END 108P NHB-108 Pro Stereo Hgh power Natural Sound Low Distortion Pure power amplifier 150W--300W 4--8ohm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOr1ggb
I just found this on AliExpress:
AU$1,155.27 | HI-END 108P NHB-108 Pro Stereo Hgh power Natural Sound Low Distortion Pure power amplifier 150W--300W 4--8ohm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOr1ggb
I am thinking of replacing output caps with larger value mundorf caps or similar, instead of 12 x 10000uf, aomething like 12 x 15,000uf (or maybe ~12,000)...and add (not replace) silver pure strips to output.speaker terminals, and.same.for connection to rca's and xlr's.
I did the same silver rewiring on my Rotel BX 990 and its a totally different amp...altho it was good before, but not like it is now...so same for the Dartzeel chi-fi clone...
Is higher value output caps a good idea??
I did the same silver rewiring on my Rotel BX 990 and its a totally different amp...altho it was good before, but not like it is now...so same for the Dartzeel chi-fi clone...
Is higher value output caps a good idea??
Hi tigerscent
To use bigger caps are principal a good idea but the rectifier could be the weak point. The caps want to load current and they dont care where it come from 😉
The transformers can deliver in this case a lot of current...the rectifier is in between both and that is the weak point.
On the pics i see "normal kpcb xx" rectifier they can handle a lot of current too. You loose about 1.3-1.5 volts on the rails but that is no issue.
Here we have 3 x caps per rail per voltages ( V+....V-) ...so 6 caps per amp channel.
So If 22000 uF or more fit there that should be no problem at all.
Kr Chris
To use bigger caps are principal a good idea but the rectifier could be the weak point. The caps want to load current and they dont care where it come from 😉
The transformers can deliver in this case a lot of current...the rectifier is in between both and that is the weak point.
On the pics i see "normal kpcb xx" rectifier they can handle a lot of current too. You loose about 1.3-1.5 volts on the rails but that is no issue.
Here we have 3 x caps per rail per voltages ( V+....V-) ...so 6 caps per amp channel.
So If 22000 uF or more fit there that should be no problem at all.
Kr Chris
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