@Dave Cawley
1. Noted - I will find an alternative to measure the speed. I need to get the LED strobe conversion done soon.
2. Time sequenced switch on/off - I know this has been mentioned, but some sites with DIY power supplies indicate this is not a problem as long as the power come online for both 5V and 32.5v about the same time for the SP10 mk2. I will have to go back and review the timing and sequence of 5V and 32.5V.
3. I made the comment about replacing the capacitors as this has been indicated as a typical repair method for "older units". I would of course prefer not to replace components just to replace.
Any other good ideas for the way forward?
1. Noted - I will find an alternative to measure the speed. I need to get the LED strobe conversion done soon.
2. Time sequenced switch on/off - I know this has been mentioned, but some sites with DIY power supplies indicate this is not a problem as long as the power come online for both 5V and 32.5v about the same time for the SP10 mk2. I will have to go back and review the timing and sequence of 5V and 32.5V.
3. I made the comment about replacing the capacitors as this has been indicated as a typical repair method for "older units". I would of course prefer not to replace components just to replace.
Any other good ideas for the way forward?
5.5ms is within the given tolerance - 4.7ms +/- 13ms. It's fine.
Finally got some time to work on my MK2a.
Did the bearing & thrust pad replacement. A chopstick ana a little block of hardwood to use as a mallet (seen in the background) worked well to remove the bearing. The motor is very impressive. I had no idea.
Noticeable wear on the thrust pad:
New:
Also have a digital scope to use. Here are the motor waves, still a little rough?
Thanks
Did the bearing & thrust pad replacement. A chopstick ana a little block of hardwood to use as a mallet (seen in the background) worked well to remove the bearing. The motor is very impressive. I had no idea.
Noticeable wear on the thrust pad:
New:
Also have a digital scope to use. Here are the motor waves, still a little rough?
Thanks
Looks like I have some more investing and work on my unit...
Powered up tonight to check that all was ok before closing up cabinet. But I felt something was wrong with the speed, and used the two apps on my phone to get an indication. Both reported approximately -8%. 30.66rpm, same percentage lower on 45 and 78rpm.
I also get no sync signals on the oscilloscope tonight. The cables wasn't even unhooked since last test yesterday.
Powered up tonight to check that all was ok before closing up cabinet. But I felt something was wrong with the speed, and used the two apps on my phone to get an indication. Both reported approximately -8%. 30.66rpm, same percentage lower on 45 and 78rpm.
I also get no sync signals on the oscilloscope tonight. The cables wasn't even unhooked since last test yesterday.
Did a quick speed adjustment with the app at 33 and 78rpm and got them spot on, but 45rpm is high.
I will retest again tomorrow to see if something changes overnight.
I will retest again tomorrow to see if something changes overnight.
Those pots do not do that. I have said more than once, your app is not accurate or repeatable, you should stop using it,
It is possible your turntable was perfect until you "adjusted" it.
If you've a scope, use the FG test point (F) to check speed. It'll be 105.55Hz at 33.33RPM.
Thank you for your constructive feedback.
When you have time, please provide a link to where we can find supporting evidence to this "lack of accurate and repeatability".
Your posts already furnish this. I'll bow out having serviced dozens of SP-10MK2's and a handful of MK3's as my advise is being questioned.
The android version of the RPM TT app is only as accurate as the phone that's running it. I have 3 phones from 3 different manufacturers and they all give different speeds, 2 fast and 1 slow, but they are fairly repeatable. The wow and flutter results are almost exactly the same, and completely repeatable.
@mk1classic
Just to be sure is your SP-10 a Mk1 - as inferred by your board name?
If not which model is it?
Just to be sure is your SP-10 a Mk1 - as inferred by your board name?
If not which model is it?