Further thoughts about this project I would really like to decouple the mids and highs from the bass.
So here is the explosive view of current plan-Using Iso Puck which I swear to god work!
This will also give a nice place for the crossover and wiring.
So here is the explosive view of current plan-Using Iso Puck which I swear to god work!
This will also give a nice place for the crossover and wiring.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
Braces in the woofer could be better.
Little leg on the OB should reach the top (as wolfteeth suggested)
dave
Little leg on the OB should reach the top (as wolfteeth suggested)
dave
Welp, my one concern with large woofer all in one speakers is the bass performance in room. I notice Troels' design includes separate inputs for the woofer. This implies two things. First, that EQ could be applied to a separate woofer amp, but also you could forego the LP filter and leave it all in the active realm.
Of course, you mentioned this is not an experiment in crossover design at all, but lordy I find it tempting. Sorry to be the bar fly on an excellent looking project. 🙂
Of course, you mentioned this is not an experiment in crossover design at all, but lordy I find it tempting. Sorry to be the bar fly on an excellent looking project. 🙂
Not at all, I respect all feedback, this community is is a treasure trove for knowledge so I feel in good hands.
And I trust Troels designs. Especially is lasts stuff... saying that, bass is just difficult to nail, so I do hope it will work in my client's room.
Would also be nice a cheaper woofer option, those Ellipticor prices are brutal
Well, adding EQ to the entire thing is always in the realm of possibility. 🙂
I trust Troels' as well, his results and measurements make him a designer whose tastes are very similar to mine. Perhaps what's spurring my thoughts here is his Ellipticor-4 design which is a 2-channel active/passive hybrid which I htought was an interesting approach.
Yes, Ellipticor prices are brutal. What makes this box what it is is that center dome. For the bass speaker, I would easily use a high-quality professional converter. I offer Faital Pro 15PR400. The tweeter is not even as good in sound as the Revelátors of the same brand, and it is also very expensive. There is an excellent and 3x cheaper treble converter, which I have verified and would be suitable here, it is the Bliesma T25S.
Not necessarily more, just better orientation.
In a woofer, in particular, it makes sense to move (potential) resonances up in frequency such that they will not be excited.
The guidline i use that comes from the study that produced they above diagram: The aspect ratio of the subpanels created by a brace shoulkd be higher than the panel being braced. Corollary: subpanels should not be equal.
So in your box i wouldput all the braces vertical, with front-to-back, and side-to-side braces. On the side-to-side brace(s), the space right behind the driver should be substantially open.
I would also run a brace right up to and just touching the back of the woofer, so as to more directly couple the driver to the maximum mount of box material and make an “i-beam” type structure for maximum stiffness,
Here is an over-the-top example (135 litres net):
dave
Noam, have you considered just bracing from the back of the mid drive, rather than the edges of the panel. That's the centre of the moving mass. You could use a shallow curved metal piece.
Thank you Dave, what I don't really like in the picture above is the use of thin looking bracing, I agree though with the placement, I'll try to find a compromise between thickness and better placement. In the picture beneath is my latest subwoofer build with relatively few bracing. But 50mm plywood walls would I assumed need less... feels inert, no vibration what so ever also in crazy spl.
Might be that the Ellipticor 84 will use panzerholz from Delignit, my back is in pain only of thinking about it.
Attachments
Do you mean like in Qualio? The only reservation I have about fixing I'm the middle is that I don't want to obscure the view from those drivers. I also wouldn't know how to fix something to the rear of the Ellipticor... such a strange shape.
That would be a good solution, but it won't be an "original" Ellipticor 84, for some it's hard to stomach
I really wonder about this midrange, if the voice coil experience same dynamic and vibration as the usually cone driver, maybe it's less prone to vibrations??
Not sure if a mid weighing 5.3kg needs a braced magnet. You could CNC the baffle in a way that the mid exactly fits, not only the front plate but the whole body or at least the sides. Ideally there would be a small gap between the baffle and the rear and sides of the dome mid which is filled with damping material.
But the original issue was how to damp/brace the acrylic. I am not a fan of the look. If you want to throw money at the enclosure, go the Magico mini way - black anodised CNCed aluminium baffle tensioned to a plywood case with rods. Make the plywood case in the same fashion as the Magico mini, you have done this before.
But the original issue was how to damp/brace the acrylic. I am not a fan of the look. If you want to throw money at the enclosure, go the Magico mini way - black anodised CNCed aluminium baffle tensioned to a plywood case with rods. Make the plywood case in the same fashion as the Magico mini, you have done this before.
Thank you maximax77 for your insight, I have just found some Panzerholz to make hypothetical Magico mini style speaker. I don't think I will ever go this route again... without cnc at least, way too time consuming.
But imagine a Magio M5 style speaker made out of Panzerholz... yikes