What about this for cheap?
Even if it is just to test the concept. If it works you can always upgrade later.
This looks the same as the super tweeter used in the famous Dahlquist speakers.
They look similar but the Dahlquist got Motorola piezos with the flange recessed from the horn to mount them from behind the baffle. Motorola also ofered the piezos that look practically identically to your picture. The piezos from your picture will surely work but believe me, they will be bad.
Oh, and don't solder on the wires, use the crimp connector shoes.
Oh, and don't solder on the wires, use the crimp connector shoes.
My third pair of Heil AMT's have not even arrived, but being the usual audiofool, I ordered some Pyramid TR46 bullet tweeters (105 dB).
What I wanted really was Pyramid TR47, Chinese clone of JBL, which was pretty highly touted years ago, but none can be found for sale. Even TR46, I found one in one place and another one in another place.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pyramid-TW46-1-5-Inch-Tweeter/22738203
When I stack 3 Heil AMT's in series, total impedance will be ~12 Ohms (single AMT is 96dB sensitive ~4Ohm), which is fine. I don't use a passive crossover, so the drivers' leads are directly connected to my tweeter amp (Elekit 8600 300B SET) via active crossover.
What would be the best way to connect the Pyramid bullet tweeter (105 dB sensitive, ~6.2 Ohm) in this scenario?
I probably would start by bullet just filling in the very top freq (>13kHz?) and let AMT's run full. 6dB/oct capacitor at 13kHz should be around 2 uF, but how do I physically arrange things, e.g. just connect the Bullet+Cap in parallel to AMT stack? In series?
What I wanted really was Pyramid TR47, Chinese clone of JBL, which was pretty highly touted years ago, but none can be found for sale. Even TR46, I found one in one place and another one in another place.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pyramid-TW46-1-5-Inch-Tweeter/22738203
When I stack 3 Heil AMT's in series, total impedance will be ~12 Ohms (single AMT is 96dB sensitive ~4Ohm), which is fine. I don't use a passive crossover, so the drivers' leads are directly connected to my tweeter amp (Elekit 8600 300B SET) via active crossover.
What would be the best way to connect the Pyramid bullet tweeter (105 dB sensitive, ~6.2 Ohm) in this scenario?
I probably would start by bullet just filling in the very top freq (>13kHz?) and let AMT's run full. 6dB/oct capacitor at 13kHz should be around 2 uF, but how do I physically arrange things, e.g. just connect the Bullet+Cap in parallel to AMT stack? In series?
Parallel with a 2.2 uF cap to the super tweeter is good for a first try. I found putting a low pass on the AMT's is not beneficial.
Even 1.1uF (or 2x2.2uF in series) works well if the super tweeter is more sensitive than the heils.
Sure, drop in because it got the same dimensions and something comes out. And every Chinese seller says it's the replacement for the Motorola etc. and it's high quality. By these standards a VW bug is a drop in replacement for a Mustang. It drives, it brakes, you can use it on the same roads, it fits the same parking space.
Measure them. Compare the measurements with the KSN (or with each other).
This is not some random AliExpress item but from parts express. I am not in the US but my uneducated guess would be that if it is total junk parts express wouldn't have stocked it. Why would they risk their reputation for 0.88 USD?
I am sure it is horrible if used as a tweeter (as are probably all piezos) but we are talking super tweeter....8, 10 or 12k and above
I did some experiments last year with piezo elements that I should probably pick up again. When I glue them to thin styrofoam or eps the sound is quite magical and the opposite of harsh.
But they are quite inefficient and require larger surface area. I could imagine a long thin foam panel piezo tweeter for a line array though.
I just bought some random piezo elements. Does anybody know where to get high quality piezo elements that have optimal parameters for tweeter/super tweeter applications?
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YES
You just need the added tweeters to have high efficiency + 10Khz C/O to add the 'Air & Bite' wanted.
I had some open baffle speakers that have already been cannibalized where I had 1" naked titanium pro compression drivers facing upwards without horn. Instead it was covered with thick felt with a 1" hole. In that design it really added life and dimensionality. But with the heils I somehow prefer the direct sound of the piezo.
Over on ASR forum there is a guy doing interesting super tweeter experiments with reflecting off irregular surfaces.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-crossover-and-multichannel-dac.12489/page-47
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Actually, while I love the Yamaha amps and speakers of the 70-early 90s, the Yamaha BE tweeters were not that great and are easily surpassed by modern tweeters, even by cheap ones. Not only did they have a problem reaching 20k but they didn't have a great impulse response nor burst decay. The BE mid domes however, are really amazing, esp for their time. If you want outstanding tweeters of that time period, look at the Pioneer, Elac and Technics/Quadral leaf tweeters. Or the ESS AMT tweeters which add immense dynamic and resolution.
You mean all he had to do was replace that old Yamaha BE tweeter with a Satori BE and be done with all that suff, including the Fostex Bullet/reflector, 4-way active system with 8-channel Octo DAC, etc..
Haven't listened in years to my basement Yamaha NS-500YST (10" servo, Be domes, no knobs so probably for home use) with electrostatic supertweeters. Ought to try my Be tweeters (from/for Paradigm Studio) instead. Always thought the rolled-off HF was intentional -- my Fostex F120A and Diatone P610 clone were the same.
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That's easy, a complaint about a piezo not performing well for <1$ a piece won't have any affect on customers who spend 100+ $ on a single driver. Or, in fact, anyone who knows about the reputation of piezos, despite the fact they can actually perform very well in selected uses. thus said, they won't risk any reputation or repercussions. I still believe PE is a reputable and relyable source of speaker drivers but I would not rely on them having everything they are selling to be top of the line. Having bad reviews on that single item doesn't harm their reputatino anyway, they can still claim "that's how piezos are" or "you complain about PIEZOS!?!??!".
Don't misunderstand me, maybe the PE piezos will perform great, idk but every single low-cost piezo I've ordered performed so much worse than reputable manufacturers' ones (and I've tried about 4 dozend) to be confident none of the super-cheap sales are performing in any satisfactory way you could use them as tweeters. Maybe they will perform great at your use - as supertweeters - but my experience is, these cheap ones drop off at 15k and just have huge resonant ridges. Ordering 20+ might get you a matching, performing pair but at the same time, it's effectively cheaper (and time saving) to just get Goldwood/Monacor ones. For that price the PE piezos are actually worth a shot though. Post some measurements please.
The suggestion of (cheap) ring radiators is actually very good. They practically all got a very narrow dispersion, so a diffusor could be useful.
I have been eyeing those Chinese Diatone clones for a while. Can you describe your experience with them? I was looking at them as open baffle midranges.