Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

CRM75, I have not tried BNC, just the RCA connection. By the way, I also see that the optical output is also lit with a red light, but I am also not in a position to test that either, because my DAC accepts only USB and SPDIF input.

I would not like to invest in anything more until I see my streamer working as intended. Thanks for the offer anyways.
 
Please guys, we would like help in troubleshooting the problem, we dont want usb solutions.

We are also in contact with the developer of Gentooplayer Antonelo.

Here we are asking what we can do to see if the hardware is working or not.

My build is working 100%, but i have Hdmi Pro in stead of Transport Pi, we are trying to establish if this is a hardware malfunction.

Thank you.

Ian are you listening?
try your set on his DAC. or vice versa. unless the dacs are the same.... It's a pity there is no MonitorPiPro... your can add TransportPi AES from pkonstantinidis's stack... I suspect it may be the DAC's "incompatibility" ....you can also upload Volumio to RPi for testing purposes...
 
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Sernikus, it is indeed a great fortune that Chris has a streamer that is almost identical to mine. We can swap and test the various components, that are suscipious for the problem, i.e. StationPi Pro, FifoPi Q7, TransportPi AES.

But before doing that, I am wondering whether there is anything I could still check/try on my streamer, to overcome the problem.

Thanks.
 
Hi guys, i would appreciate a little advice..

As vinyl record collector and Turntable fan, for long time i was pushing away digital, but looking at Gabster Youtube channel and reading this DIY forum, made me think twice and have decided to build DAC made from Ian Canada components.
All my Digital music collection is on the external USB drive. Could you please advice what is the best way to connect my external drive to IAN Canada DAC. Should i just stick in into Raspberry Pi USB? Or do i need some more components?

Here listed below is what i have purchased so far.
As Audiophile i would like to have best possible SQ.

Raspberry Pi 3 B plus
IAN Canada Pure Pi ii
IAN Canda Fifo Pi Q7
IAN Canada Dual mono Mk2 DAC
IAN Canada OPA861
IAN Canada Monitorpi PRO
IAN Canada Linearpi Mk2 Dual

I will buy some toroid transformers and possibly 7” screen at latter stage.

Sorry in advance if similar question has already being asked…

Any advice is more than welcome,
Thanks,
 
try your set on his DAC. or vice versa. unless the dacs are the same.... It's a pity there is no MonitorPiPro... your can add TransportPi AES from pkonstantinidis's stack... I suspect it may be the DAC's "incompatibility" ....you can also upload Volumio to RPi for testing purposes...
Spdif is no dac compatibility, spdif is spdif

I am awaiting Ian Canada's answer

It is not easy to swap systems me and Panos are professionals with limited free time, we will see maybe this weekend if schedule permits
 
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And now for another perspective on resistors. I tried many different resistors for I/V on output. The original AN tantalum were among the worst to my ear. After many experiments I found hand rolled manganin wire to be the absolute best. I don't know what the function is for these resistors. Perhaps AN will work for you in this application. But if they do not, consider manganin when passing an audio signal.
Yeah I read that they need double the time to burn in. Maybe you had a bad batch?? I've had pretty good results with them in the past, hopefully this continues...They are 1000% more expensive than the Vishay Dale, but it's still just 40$ for the four of them! Laws of deminishing return sure applies but if its better its worth in IMHO :cheers:
 
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MtlJazz. Perhaps they'd improve with time. I ripped them out pretty fast and they have been in the used parts bin for years now. Came from Partsconnexion, so if they were defective samples its the only time I've seen that from them. No worries, as I am delighted with manganin wire wound which I use for I/V and in the tube output buffer/amp.
 
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Can you please say which you tried and give further links and sonic changes you noticed? I am not familiar with manganin.

I am almost crazy enough to stack a bunch of path audio resistors for each, lol, they would be huge tho... But on my speskers these are end level resistors and better than anything else.
I described my adventures 10 yrs ago with Manganin https://www.diyaudio.com/archive/bl...rojects-ridding-system-resistor-problems.html
Manganin is an alloy of 84.2% copper, 12.1% manganese, and 3.7% nickel. It has very good properties for stable resistance across temperature. The very fine wire and low resistance makes it only useful for low resistance low power. I used it for IV resistors and in triode tube output buffer. Impact on sound is like cleaning your glasses. Clear, clean and natural. Better transfer of low level information allowing the little stuff like presence and emotion to appear in the music.
Closest commercial product would be Rhopoint.
 
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A short disciption off my Ian system
PI4 with picoreplayer LMS, LAN connected
PI4 with picoreplayer Squeezelite, WIFI, USB2 connected (recommended by SMSL), Allo power supply.
Topping HS01 USB isolator
ReceiverPIDDC with Amanero
FIFOPI Q7 with SC-Pure
ES9038Q2 in true sync and DPLL stopped
OPA861IV
And MonitorPIPRO
Powersupply:
LinearPI 5vdc to PurePI.
5vdc for FIFOQ7 from PurePI.
3.3vdc for FIFOQ7 from LinearPI.
3.3vdc for ES9038Q2 (AVCC and DVCC) from PurePI.
+/-5 vdc to OPA861IV from LinearPI mkII and UcConditioner.
And the angels sing:)
 
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Her you go @pkonstantinidis, i’m missing a case🤔
IMG_2031.jpeg
 
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Hello,
There are just to many boards. Who could have ever thought that we need this many boards to make things work properly.
All this of course made worse because everyone wants to do it a little different.
Greetings Eduard
Hello Eduard,

I don't think its the number of boards that is the issue , after all it appears to be a modular system. Comprehension is the cornerstone. Grasping the inner workings and reasons behind how things operate, and more crucially, understanding why they might falter, is paramount. Investing ample time in unraveling intricacies becomes essential. D.I.Y offers the freedom to craft things according to your own vision.

When a company undertakes the construction of a product, considerable time is devoted to designing and ensuring seamless communication and reliability. A entrusted to seasoned professionals with years of experience, and even they occasionally encounter challenges.

Embarking on a D.I.Y project may not be a cakewalk. Therefore, individuals shouldn't get frustrated if things don't work on the first try but rather strive to become more adept and resourceful.
 
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Hello,
But i still think that there are to many people who run into trouble.
One could state that is the challenge of diy. A decade or more ago i started collecting parts to make a kind of Pultec pc10 phono stage clone. But parts keep piling up and then i read about a Dutch phonostage which was not exactly cheap. So i sold the parts added extra money and no more time kind of wasted.
Some months ago i got some boards from Canada but still have to start constructing. But plans already changed because i want the RPI outside my digital gear chassis.
Waiting for a clear instruction how to get things connected with HDMI cable. Maybe i will just hire a professional to do it for me.
I stand by my opinion there are to many boards, i mean before you are convinced the latest update was a good investment the new update already announced. Better fewer boards with a bigger successful finishing rate than boards ending up in a drawer.
Greetings Eduard
 
Hello,
But i still think that there are to many people who run into trouble.
One could state that is the challenge of diy. A decade or more ago i started collecting parts to make a kind of Pultec pc10 phono stage clone. But parts keep piling up and then i read about a Dutch phonostage which was not exactly cheap. So i sold the parts added extra money and no more time kind of wasted.
Some months ago i got some boards from Canada but still have to start constructing. But plans already changed because i want the RPI outside my digital gear chassis.
Waiting for a clear instruction how to get things connected with HDMI cable. Maybe i will just hire a professional to do it for me.
I stand by my opinion there are to many boards, i mean before you are convinced the latest update was a good investment the new update already announced. Better fewer boards with a bigger successful finishing rate than boards ending up in a drawer.
Greetings Eduard
Ehmmm.... it was a joke ?
 
I've been lurking for a while, and I hope someone can answer a few questions about available accessories. I am likely going to start with the #92A Flagship Full function SYNC Clock mode DAC Kit that includes:
#1D FifoPi Q7II
#4B ES9038Q2M Dual Mono II DAC
#6B OPA861 Zero feedback balanced I/V
#19D ReceiverPi DDC
#35C StationPi Pro
#49B MonitorPi Pro

Does the StationPi Pro function as either a ShieldPi Pro reducing both EMI noise and power supply noise, and/or an IsolatorPi II that provides galvanic isolation for I2S, I2C, ID, some GPIO, and power between the SBC and the digital audio card? Or would the addition of either/both of those cards decrease noise/increase SQ even further?

This is a Raspberry Pi-based system because I am using Gigabit Ethernet. Does the ReceiverPi DDC offer any SQ or functionality improvements, or does it simply provide a full range of inputs (USB, RCA, OPT, I2S over HDMI) so that a stack can be used without an RPi (meaning, since I am using an RPi, is there still a benefit to having this in my stack)?

I understand at some point I can mod the resistors in the OPA861 IV to something like the Audio Note Silver Niobium Non-Magnetic. But I am unsure what brand of caps are used the OPA861 or ES9038Q2M Dual Mono II DAC, are those Nichicons?
 
Have you seen any value in the MonitorPi Pro? Do you use it just as a display or also as a functionality controller?
Hi Pkonstantinidis



Please read MonitorPi Pro manual.

I would not do a build with out one.

Not having a Monitor is like driving a car with out mirrors and a speedo and no stereo settings.

I have a dual mono DAC When I finish doing a tweak or adding some thing I can do a quick check that I have sound plugging directly into a power speaker and use my old apple remote for DAC volume control.(use preamp and have DAC at full volume when listening in your system.)

After changing clocks in my Q7 I will power up just that board and see if it is working.

Eddie
 
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